Throttle issue

Hi all,

 

I've noticed the resistance has reduced substantially on my throttle as there doesn't seem to be much oomph required to twist it anymore. Anyone have any thoughts on why?

There must be at least 50 types of throttles. Is it this one?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32983834381.html?src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=1622677378&albag=57224001810&trgt=743612850874&crea=en32983834381&netw=u&device=c&albpg=743612850874&albpd=en32983834381&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7YyCBhD_ARIsALkj54pIOEc8bdPkEmG1rMhTAiW5rsfpP1_Hzr3-QAmb0YGcVEtxm1LHAUUaAqUgEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

There must be at least 50 types of throttles. Is it this one?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32983834381.html?src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=1622677378&albag=57224001810&trgt=743612850874&crea=en32983834381&netw=u&device=c&albpg=743612850874&albpd=en32983834381&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7YyCBhD_ARIsALkj54pIOEc8bdPkEmG1rMhTAiW5rsfpP1_Hzr3-QAmb0YGcVEtxm1LHAUUaAqUgEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

No, it's this one - picture attached

The problem is that we have no idea how it was before and how it is now. Maybe it was faulty before, and now it's OK. If it still works properly and springs back, what's the problem?

 

Full-width throttles are not really suitable for electric bicycles, especially bikes with small wheels. They're only thin plastic, and if you hit a bump while at full throttle, the jolt is enough to break the end-stop. They're so weak that you can break the stop, just by twisting. I'd change it for a thumb-type

The problem is that we have no idea how it was before and how it is now. Maybe it was faulty before, and now it's OK. If it still works properly and springs back, what's the problem?

 

Full-width throttles are not really suitable for electric bicycles, especially bikes with small wheels. They're only thin plastic, and if you hit a bump while at full throttle, the jolt is enough to break the end-stop. They're so weak that you can break the stop, just by twisting. I'd change it for a thumb-type

There was a lot more twisting required to get it to full throttle before, now it's done in one turn and just feels like there's no power. I thought issue was my battery but now think it's the throttle. Seems to take longer to get up to fill speed too. It worked perfectly before and was very nippy from the off, now it's slow on acceleration. Could it also be lose connection from the controller not feeding enough power through to the throttle?

Edited March 6, 20215 yr by UrbanPuma

Could it also be lose connection from the controller not feeding enough power through to the throttle?

No.

 

How's the power from the pedal sensor?

 

The only way to confirm whether the throttle is working OK is to measure the voltage on the signal wire, while you operate it. Show us the connector if you need any help with that.

 

As I said above, it's too easy to break the end-stops, which can do all sorts of weird things regarding power. Normally you'd know that you'd done it because there would have been an event that caused it to break: throttle was working OK, big bump, a few swear words, then the throttle isn't working like it should. In other words, it doesn't happen while parked in the garage.

No.

 

How's the power from the pedal sensor?

 

The only way to confirm whether the throttle is working OK is to measure the voltage on the signal wire, while you operate it. Show us the connector if you need any help with that.

 

As I said above, it's too easy to break the end-stops, which can do all sorts of weird things regarding power. Normally you'd know that you'd done it because there would have been an event that caused it to break: throttle was working OK, big bump, a few swear words, then the throttle isn't working like it should. In other words, it doesn't happen while parked in the garage.

Nothing as eventful as that springs to mind lol. I'll take a pic of the connector and report back. Thanks

No.

 

How's the power from the pedal sensor?

 

The only way to confirm whether the throttle is working OK is to measure the voltage on the signal wire, while you operate it. Show us the connector if you need any help with that.

 

As I said above, it's too easy to break the end-stops, which can do all sorts of weird things regarding power. Normally you'd know that you'd done it because there would have been an event that caused it to break: throttle was working OK, big bump, a few swear words, then the throttle isn't working like it should. In other words, it doesn't happen while parked in the garage.

I'

No.

 

How's the power from the pedal sensor?

 

The only way to confirm whether the throttle is working OK is to measure the voltage on the signal wire, while you operate it. Show us the connector if you need any help with that.

 

As I said above, it's too easy to break the end-stops, which can do all sorts of weird things regarding power. Normally you'd know that you'd done it because there would have been an event that caused it to break: throttle was working OK, big bump, a few swear words, then the throttle isn't working like it should. In other words, it doesn't happen while parked in the garage.

From what I can remember, I think the pedal sensor wasn't as powerful either. I've opened the case to the connectors, but not sure which of the four wires on the right side are the throttle

Set your meter to 20v (or whtever) and stuff your probes into the back of the connector in the slots where the red and the white wires go in.

Set your meter to 20v (or whtever) and stuff your probes into the back of the connector in the slots where the red and the white wires go in.

 

Meter set to 20v as in picture. Where do I place the probes. Do I need to disconnect the connectors?

Where do I place the probes. Do I need to disconnect the connectors?

Everything must be switched on and connected. I already said, "stuff your probes into the back of the connector in the slots where the red and the white wires go in. " 4th connector down in your photo.

Where do I place the probes. Do I need to disconnect the connectors?

Everything must be switched on and connected. I already said, "stuff your probes into the back of the connector in the slots where the red and the white wires go in. " 4th connector down in your photo.

Ok, inserted probes into slots and results are as follows:

 

A) Red probe to red wire + black probe to white wire = -1

 

B) Black probe to red wire + red probe to white wire = 1

Sorr, I made a typo. It should be the black and white wires. Make sure that the probes are reaching the metal in the connector.

 

Using the red wire, it should still have worked. You should have got about 4v with the throttle closed and 1v when fully-opened.

 

Using the black and white wires, you should get around 1.2v and 3.8v.

Edited March 7, 20215 yr by vfr400

Sorr, I made a typo. It should be the black and white wires. Make sure that the probes are reaching the metal in the connector.

 

Using the red wire, it should still have worked. You should have got about 4v with the throttle closed and 1v when fully-opened.

 

Using the black and white wires, you should get around 1.2v and 3.8v.

No problem. I've just re-tested and the reading is 4.98 but when I switch the probes around the reading is 1. What does this mean?

No problem. I've just re-tested and the reading is 4.98 but when I switch the probes around the reading is 1. What does this mean?

It means that you're measuring incorrectly and you still haven't done the important measurements that show the difference between throttle open and shut.

 

Start again from the beginning:

red probe on red wire and black probe on black wire - should be around 5v

red probe on white wire and black probe on black wire - should be 1.2v with throttle shut and 3.8v with throttle open.

 

Please post just those three results.

It means that you're measuring incorrectly and you still haven't done the important measurements that show the difference between throttle open and shut.

 

Start again from the beginning:

red probe on red wire and black probe on black wire - should be around 5v

red probe on white wire and black probe on black wire - should be 1.2v with throttle shut and 3.8v with throttle open.

 

Please post just those three results.

Sorry, just did it again from standing position and it reads 2.36.

Edited March 8, 20215 yr by UrbanPuma

Sorry, just did it again from standing position and it reads 2.36.

That's not three results. Try again until you can post the results that I asked for.

Sorry, just did it again from standing position and it reads 2.36.

Ok. 1st reading 4.30 and second 0.88, but the black probe wire just broke...I'll need to get a new one. Will do test again as it may be faulty

Edited March 8, 20215 yr by UrbanPuma

It means that you're measuring incorrectly and you still haven't done the important measurements that show the difference between throttle open and shut.

 

Start again from the beginning:

red probe on red wire and black probe on black wire - should be around 5v

red probe on white wire and black probe on black wire - should be 1.2v with throttle shut and 3.8v with throttle open.

 

Please post just those three results.

Readings are as follows:

a) 4.26

b) 0.86

c) 3.53

They're all a bit low, so there could be something wrong with your meter. If it were just the full throttle signal, I would have said that you've broken the end-stop, but I can't draw that conclusion when the other two are low as well.

 

Have you got a new AA battery you can ckeck? It should be close to 1.5v. If it's lower, your meter isn't reading right.

They're all a bit low, so there could be something wrong with your meter. If it were just the full throttle signal, I would have said that you've broken the end-stop, but I can't draw that conclusion when the other two are low as well.

 

Have you got a new AA battery you can ckeck? It should be close to 1.5v. If it's lower, your meter isn't reading right.

Oh. I only received the meter today, so assumed it was new. I'll have to get a new one and try again.

 

I did notice while riding the bike today that in pedal assist mode there wasn't any oomph when I engage the pedals anymore, and as mentioned before not much twisting is required to get to full throttle now. Any suggestions as to the cause?

No.

 

How's the power from the pedal sensor?

 

The only way to confirm whether the throttle is working OK is to measure the voltage on the signal wire, while you operate it. Show us the connector if you need any help with that.

 

As I said above, it's too easy to break the end-stops, which can do all sorts of weird things regarding power. Normally you'd know that you'd done it because there would have been an event that caused it to break: throttle was working OK, big bump, a few swear words, then the throttle isn't working like it should. In other words, it doesn't happen while parked in the garage.

 

I think the probes are too big...it's really difficult getting them in to touch

Use sewing pins or needles to shove up the back of the connector and apply the probes to the pins/needles.

Use sewing pins or needles to shove up the back of the connector and apply the probes to the pins/needles.

Brill, I will do that - thanks

Sorr, I made a typo. It should be the black and white wires. Make sure that the probes are reaching the metal in the connector.

 

Using the red wire, it should still have worked. You should have got about 4v with the throttle closed and 1v when fully-opened.

 

Using the black and white wires, you should get around 1.2v and 3.8v.

 

Sorry, it has been a while - I was snowed under and have only just managed to get round to this.

 

Readings are as follows:

 

Black (ground) + white (signal) wires

Closed = 0.86v

Open = 3.55v

 

Black + red wires

Closed = 4.29v

Open = 4.29v

 

Hoping you can help.

 

kind regards,

 

urbanpuma