No, it's this one - picture attachedThere must be at least 50 types of throttles. Is it this one?
24V/36V/48V/64V/72V/96V electric bicycle throttle with 3 speed controller and forward reverse for ebike/scooter/tricycle - AliExpress 18
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There was a lot more twisting required to get it to full throttle before, now it's done in one turn and just feels like there's no power. I thought issue was my battery but now think it's the throttle. Seems to take longer to get up to fill speed too. It worked perfectly before and was very nippy from the off, now it's slow on acceleration. Could it also be lose connection from the controller not feeding enough power through to the throttle?The problem is that we have no idea how it was before and how it is now. Maybe it was faulty before, and now it's OK. If it still works properly and springs back, what's the problem?
Full-width throttles are not really suitable for electric bicycles, especially bikes with small wheels. They're only thin plastic, and if you hit a bump while at full throttle, the jolt is enough to break the end-stop. They're so weak that you can break the stop, just by twisting. I'd change it for a thumb-type
No.Could it also be lose connection from the controller not feeding enough power through to the throttle?
Nothing as eventful as that springs to mind lol. I'll take a pic of the connector and report back. ThanksNo.
How's the power from the pedal sensor?
The only way to confirm whether the throttle is working OK is to measure the voltage on the signal wire, while you operate it. Show us the connector if you need any help with that.
As I said above, it's too easy to break the end-stops, which can do all sorts of weird things regarding power. Normally you'd know that you'd done it because there would have been an event that caused it to break: throttle was working OK, big bump, a few swear words, then the throttle isn't working like it should. In other words, it doesn't happen while parked in the garage.
I'No.
How's the power from the pedal sensor?
The only way to confirm whether the throttle is working OK is to measure the voltage on the signal wire, while you operate it. Show us the connector if you need any help with that.
As I said above, it's too easy to break the end-stops, which can do all sorts of weird things regarding power. Normally you'd know that you'd done it because there would have been an event that caused it to break: throttle was working OK, big bump, a few swear words, then the throttle isn't working like it should. In other words, it doesn't happen while parked in the garage.
From what I can remember, I think the pedal sensor wasn't as powerful either. I've opened the case to the connectors, but not sure which of the four wires on the right side are the throttleNo.
How's the power from the pedal sensor?
The only way to confirm whether the throttle is working OK is to measure the voltage on the signal wire, while you operate it. Show us the connector if you need any help with that.
As I said above, it's too easy to break the end-stops, which can do all sorts of weird things regarding power. Normally you'd know that you'd done it because there would have been an event that caused it to break: throttle was working OK, big bump, a few swear words, then the throttle isn't working like it should. In other words, it doesn't happen while parked in the garage.
Meter set to 20v as in picture. Where do I place the probes. Do I need to disconnect the connectors?Set your meter to 20v (or whtever) and stuff your probes into the back of the connector in the slots where the red and the white wires go in.
Everything must be switched on and connected. I already said, "stuff your probes into the back of the connector in the slots where the red and the white wires go in. " 4th connector down in your photo.Where do I place the probes. Do I need to disconnect the connectors?
No problem. I've just re-tested and the reading is 4.98 but when I switch the probes around the reading is 1. What does this mean?Sorr, I made a typo. It should be the black and white wires. Make sure that the probes are reaching the metal in the connector.
Using the red wire, it should still have worked. You should have got about 4v with the throttle closed and 1v when fully-opened.
Using the black and white wires, you should get around 1.2v and 3.8v.
It means that you're measuring incorrectly and you still haven't done the important measurements that show the difference between throttle open and shut.No problem. I've just re-tested and the reading is 4.98 but when I switch the probes around the reading is 1. What does this mean?
Sorry, just did it again from standing position and it reads 2.36.It means that you're measuring incorrectly and you still haven't done the important measurements that show the difference between throttle open and shut.
Start again from the beginning:
red probe on red wire and black probe on black wire - should be around 5v
red probe on white wire and black probe on black wire - should be 1.2v with throttle shut and 3.8v with throttle open.
Please post just those three results.
That's not three results. Try again until you can post the results that I asked for.Sorry, just did it again from standing position and it reads 2.36.
Ok. 1st reading 4.30 and second 0.88, but the black probe wire just broke...I'll need to get a new one. Will do test again as it may be faultySorry, just did it again from standing position and it reads 2.36.
Readings are as follows:It means that you're measuring incorrectly and you still haven't done the important measurements that show the difference between throttle open and shut.
Start again from the beginning:
red probe on red wire and black probe on black wire - should be around 5v
red probe on white wire and black probe on black wire - should be 1.2v with throttle shut and 3.8v with throttle open.
Please post just those three results.