Throttle cable fries

[MrSkinnyLegs]

Hello,

Long story short. My 36V throttle, black cable literally went up in smokes while i was cruising uphill.
The problem is it fried on controller side. I normally never use it so it does not matter to me, however i have no way to turn my bike on(motor on ). Sensor is not working if i put battery in place and switch it on.

Also on top of everything the rear hub "locked" it is very hard to pedal now and it makes clicking noise as if big gears were turning if that makes sense. I fear the short circuit told controller to do something like lock electrical break or something ( which i do not have ).

Do any of you think that buying an lcd display would help me fix the problems, by being able to thun on motor etc?

Thanks.

PS : i have a soldering kit and multimeter and no experience , i could attempt to change the black wire?

Bike stats "23a and 36v controller" and 48v battery ( 13amp).

 

[Nealh]

Phase wires have shorted out or mosfets have failed by the sounds of it.
A rudimentary test is to disconnect the hub, if the wheel free's up with little or no forward resistance then the controller phase wires or fets have shorted . If the hub doesn't free up then the motor cable has shorted either at the hub axle entry point or inside.
The controller throttle wiring may have melted due to heat from phase wires.
Also how are you running 48v with 36v rated controller, is it dual mode or has a 60v capacitor ?

 

[Nealh]

23a at 48v means the controller is out putting 1100w from the controller, one suspects it got very hot and damage has occurred inside aka fried controller.

 

[vfr400]

You've blown the controller. The motor will unlock if you disconnect it fronm the controller.

Tell us what you have and the circumstances of the failure, and we can probably explain what went wrong and why.

 

[MrSkinnyLegs]

I have dismantled the controller, none of the mosfets are imploded, no blackness anywhere, cables completely fine except the throttle black cable. But chip and everything looks absolutely fine.

I had everything disconnected to check every single cable and the wheel is locked. I am able to force spin it, but if you push it with force and let go it goes maximum 1/10th of a rotation and halts.

Yes it is a dual mode controller. I assume i have no chance to change the hub wire myself, or it would cost nearly as a new hub?...

Looking at it from outside it is the same as always, i assume damage is done inside ....

 

[MrSkinnyLegs]

You've blown the controller. The motor will unlock if you disconnect it fronm the controller.

Tell us what you have and the circumstances of the failure, and we can probably explain what went wrong and why.

It did not unlock.

I was riding uphill with throttle at 20-30% turned to cruise next to a walking person. It cut power for a moment and came back 2 times. I thought it was my finger slipping, but now i know it was already shorting.

Finally it simply stopped and i saw smoke come from controller pouch ( it's half open for ventilation ).

I cut battery power, put bike aside to see if anything else might happen and then inspected to find controller only mildly warm so i thought i might have blown a mosfet.

I had to pedal home and it was as if i was pedaling my road bike on highest gear up 10% hill. I had to use all my weight standing to pedal and the wheel was making clicking sounds constantly. I knew that something was terribly wrong with hub, but it was hard to push it as if with brakes for 2kms.

At home i dismantled all controller and checked every single cable. It was one of the six throttle cables, black which melted completely. Did not find signs of damage anywhere else on the bike including motor cable.

 

[Nealh]

Mosfets don't show out ward signs of failure one has to check for shorting via an ohms test with a meter.
Regarding the rear wheel being locked. did you disconnect the controller to motor cable connector about 25cm from the axle ?
Is so check the cable entry at the axle for damage or open it up to look for damage, possible that the nylon gears may have melted with 23a current input via the controller.

BlownMosfets.cdr (ebikes.ca)

 

[vfr400]

The throttle is only 5v, so even a dead short wouldn't burn anything. If you short the 5v supply wire to ground, the 5v regulator will blow, but only after a fair while, and when it blows, it normally cuts off the 5v, so no consequential damage,

You still haven't told us what motor and controller you have.

 

[MrSkinnyLegs]

Right i tried rhe ohm test, and only got a reading of 0.05 on red + green cable, everything else is not reacting

Rotor is supposedly 750W, but i saw same looking one which says its 1000, so no clue. No picture since i had to move it away having 3 other bikes in the way.. looks a simple black round hub. 26 inch wheel. Hub is approx 50% of the wheel

 

[Nealh]

If you carried out the resistance/ohms test as per the 'pdf' and got that one result then the controller is fried or certainly the mosfets are.

 

[MrSkinnyLegs]

Damn. I am looking for new controller and throttle or lcd, does it matter what watts controller say or only Volts and Amps matter?

 

[Nealh]

If you want the same performance then it needs to be 22/23a, a nice KT set up will work get a 25a KT controller with Lcd3, add a throttle and make sure you get a PAS sensor & disc, that way you can get some exercise which is good for the body.

KT controllers are dual voltage so 36/48v.