I am sure my drive side axle nut didn't loosen but rather, the relatively thin M12 washer bent (went concave) giving the same end result, a tiny increase in the space between the nut and dropout. It wasn't fully loose but was far too easy to undo with my spanner. The non-drive side stayed tight but that side has a torque arm, so the nut is tight up against a plate of stainless steel 5mm thick - that ain't bending!
Maybe if I just tighten it back up it would be OK, since it's already bent as much as it's probably able to.
Should I just put those Nord Lock washers on?
Thicker standard washers?
Blue Loctite?
Nyloc nuts?
A combination of the above?
Don't Nord Lock washers just bend and go concave too?
I thought they were expensive but not really, in fact the extra thick standard M12 washers I was looking at cost more, but those are no use because they are 30mm in diameter.
EDIT: The big washer under the flanged axle nut, was pressing against a smaller torque washer. Since I already have a torque arm at the other side I just removed that torque washer entirely, so now the big washer is flat against the dropout and the flanged axle nut.
Maybe if I just tighten it back up it would be OK, since it's already bent as much as it's probably able to.
Should I just put those Nord Lock washers on?
Thicker standard washers?
Blue Loctite?
Nyloc nuts?
A combination of the above?
Don't Nord Lock washers just bend and go concave too?
I thought they were expensive but not really, in fact the extra thick standard M12 washers I was looking at cost more, but those are no use because they are 30mm in diameter.
EDIT: The big washer under the flanged axle nut, was pressing against a smaller torque washer. Since I already have a torque arm at the other side I just removed that torque washer entirely, so now the big washer is flat against the dropout and the flanged axle nut.
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