Renovating a GoElectric trike/carrier..does anyone know here I can purchase a similar controller from.
The company will only say it's no longer available.
In principle, all controllers work the same so you can use any one you want of the same voltage. There are some deciding factors that you haven't provided any info on:
1. Brushed or brushless motor? Brushed have 2 power wires, brushless have 3 or more.
2. Sensored or sensorless motor? Sensored have 3 power wires plus at least 5 others.
3. How much current/power do you need? That depends on what battery and motor you have.
4. Connector type?
In principle, all controllers work the same so you can use any one you want of the same voltage. There are some deciding factors that you haven't provided any info on:
1. Brushed or brushless motor? Brushed have 2 power wires, brushless have 3 or more.
2. Sensored or sensorless motor? Sensored have 3 power wires plus at least 5 others.
3. How much current/power do you need? That depends on what battery and motor you have.
4. Connector type?
I thought this wouldn't be easy. The answer to most of those questions is :I don't know".
The chap we bought it off didn't have an idea about it.
So I'm look8ng in the dark at the moment.
Renovating a GoElectric trike/carrier..does anyone know here I can purchase a similar controller from.
The company will only say it's no longer available.
As you can see the wires (Red and Black) have melted and I believe this is from the plug where the mains would be plugged into.
I'm assuming the controller is closed and needs replacing.
It's 4 12 volt batteries giving 48volt.
It's for use on the caravan site we have a seasonal pitch.
Nanjing Yuan lang mainly do three wheelers/mobility scooters/chairs, you will not in all likely hood get a direct replacement controller. You will though be able to upgrade it to probably something equally as good if not better.
Before even thinking about opening the hub (usually reliable), I would carry out some controller phase testing first and then hall testing . The over heated/melted supply wires suggest a problem not related to a hub issue but more of a overload power surge demand from the controller/battery.
Before even thinking about opening the hub (usually reliable), I would carry out some controller phase testing first and then hall testing . The over heated/melted supply wires suggest a problem not related to a hub issue but more of a overload power surge demand from the controller/battery.
Thank you for that reply.
i feel I need to find an electrician who understands this as it’s now beyond me.
hoping to find a replacement controller but that is proving difficult.
i feel I need to find an electrician who understands this as it’s now beyond me.
hoping to find a replacement controller but that is proving difficult.
Give us a rough location, someone on here may be able to offer you some hands on help. Otherwise get yourself a digital multimeter if you've not got one. The wiring is not as complex as it first looks. Replacement controller is not a problem.
Give us a rough location, someone on here may be able to offer you some hands on help. Otherwise get yourself a digital multimeter if you've not got one. The wiring is not as complex as it first looks. Replacement controller is not a problem.
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