Help! Swytch Kit 2020 - Works for 10 minutes, then dies...

[Shockwave1985]

Hi all,

I'm new here and hoping to find some help with my problem. I have a Swytch Kit from 2020 and I've run into an ongoing problem with the kit where it works for a few minutes and then dies. I don't know what is causing the issue but I checked with Swytch support with no real help coming from then. The kit works when I start my ride to work and then stops working shortly before I hit my destination. Since I live in Berlin, I sometimes have to drive over cobblestones which seem to accelerate the problem from occurring. I am not sure if this is a heat issue or something else. Usually after an hour or so, the kit works again, only to die after a few minutes into riding it.

Would anyone happen have a clue of what is going on? I am in the process of buying a new PAS that might be compatible with the kit. I would also consider getting a thumb accelerator for it.

I have 3 batteries for the kit and have the problem with all 3 batteries.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

 

[Nealh]

It sounds like possibly mosfet thermal cut out as the bike works some time later on, but the thermal cut out issue is usally caused by slow riding drawing high current.

Have you tried riding a route with out cobbles to see if the cut outs stop ?

 

[Nealh]

One can simply tell if it is thermal cut outs, when it occurs see if one can touch /hold the controller base at the bottom of the battery without scolding ones hand.

 

[saneagle]

Hi all,

I'm new here and hoping to find some help with my problem. I have a Swytch Kit from 2020 and I've run into an ongoing problem with the kit where it works for a few minutes and then dies. I don't know what is causing the issue but I checked with Swytch support with no real help coming from then. The kit works when I start my ride to work and then stops working shortly before I hit my destination. Since I live in Berlin, I sometimes have to drive over cobblestones which seem to accelerate the problem from occurring. I am not sure if this is a heat issue or something else. Usually after an hour or so, the kit works again, only to die after a few minutes into riding it.

Would anyone happen have a clue of what is going on? I am in the process of buying a new PAS that might be compatible with the kit. I would also consider getting a thumb accelerator for it.

I have 3 batteries for the kit and have the problem with all 3 batteries.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

How far is the destination, and what power level are you using?

 

[Cisco-man]

It would help to know what Swytch version you have. Can you do a picture of your battery?

 

[Shockwave1985]

Hi all, first off, thank you for all the replies!!! This is amazing. I have the Pro version of the battery. I will try to touch the bottom of the battery but I have never noticed there to be any heat build-up before.

I have three batteries (1x Eco, 2x Pro). They look the same from the outside, but I'm led to understand that the Eco has a smaller battery than the Pro. All three experience the same issue with the bike.

I have ridden on paved roads only and still get similar results. Sooner, than later, all batteries experience this issue.

Will I need to open up the battery packs to get to the mosfet?

Could the handle bar bracket be faulty? What is inside the bracket than just the connectors and cables?

My work commute is less than 4 km.

 

[Cisco-man]

Ah, so you have what people call the gen 2 setup. The battery takes up most of the space inside the case, and the controller (with the mosfets, etc. );sits down one side of the case. If something is getting hot then you’re not likely to feel it through the case.

 

[Nealh]

The mosfets in the controller will depend on the wiring one can carry out mosfet testing with a metre.
The controller isn't in the battery but are either in the modual/receiver that holds the battery or is contained in the handle bar bag.
However mosfets work or don't, the half way point of when mosfest thermally cut out means they are weak or underated for the power used .

 

[Cisco-man]

The handle bar bracket contains just connections to translate the multi-pin connector that connects to the pack, to the individual connectors that go to the various parts of the bike. There is a lock mechanism to lock the pack into place, so I don't think your problem is there. The best advice to begin with is to make sure all the connections are good - especially the one that goes down to the hub. Push it well in.

 

[Nealh]

Mosfets usually get hot and thermally cut out if one uses high current draw and rides slowly, an example is climbing steep hills where one draws max power but struggles to ride very fast with a slow cadence.

 

[Cisco-man]

When it all fails, how many LEDs are light up on the left-hand light column on the display? These show how much power is remaining in the pack.

 

[Nealh]

Their have been reliabilty issues with the kit and others have reported issues before.
Check the battery to controller connection , disconnect the connection and check for burning or pitting . Like wise do the same for the phase wire connections , if one finds burning or discoloured connections then one has an issue with the connections contact.

Which controller is used ?

 

[Shockwave1985]

When it all fails, how many LEDs are light up on the left-hand light column on the display? These show how much power is remaining in the pack.

Those don't change, they remain the same, depending on the level of the power that is still available (measurable).

 

[Shockwave1985]

Their have been reliabilty issues with the kit and others have reported issues before.
Check the battery to controller connection , disconnect the connection and check for burning or pitting . Like wise do the same for the phase wire connections , if one finds burning or discoloured connections then one has an issue with the connections contact.

Which controller is used ?

I have never taken the battery pack apart, so I wouldn't know. I'd have to do so and send you guys some pictures to help me identify the problem.

 

[Cisco-man]

Sorry, the battery state of charge lights are on the right.

 

[Cisco-man]

What non-swytch people here are maybe unaware of is that when you swap between your three gen 2 packs, that you are also swapping the controller module and display. The only bits not being changed when you do this, are the handlebar bracket, the hub, and the pedal sensor (PAS). The fault therefore must be with these three item or the associated cables.

 

[Nealh]

I have never taken the battery pack apart, so I wouldn't know. I'd have to do so and send you guys some pictures to help me identify the problem.

One doesn't need to take the battery a part , but just find the connection point and look at the connector on both parts for any signs of discolouring.
Like wise do the same for the controller to motor phase wire connection.

Their is another point where power delievery can be an issue and that is the motor cable connector near the hub motor, make sure it is fully pushed home . There is a raised line on the moulded connector make sur ethe opposing end is fully up to the line.

 

[Shockwave1985]

Sorry, the battery state of charge lights are on the right.

Those also remain the same, there is no display change (change in lights) when the power cuts out. You feel an immediate loss of power but the battery display stays the same. The battery will eventually turn itself off since it is not being used by the wheel, while I am peddling without power.

My PAS does look a little worse for wear. Red light that would indicate that it is receiving power doesn't light up or only lights up when I paddle in reverse (not sure why.)

 

[Cisco-man]

Just a thought. My brother had a very similar problem with his gen 2 swytch too. It turned out that his batteries in the battery pack was very much out of balance and the pack was shutting down. Your packs are also quite old.

 

[Cisco-man]

My PAS does look a little worse for wear. Red light that would indicate that it is receiving power doesn't light up or only lights up when I paddle in reverse (not sure why.)

It looks like the PAS is to blame. The red light isn’t a power indicator, it only lights up when it detects rotation of the magnets.