Help! Swytch Air (gen3) intermittent running, help request

[TXe-CyclingJon]

Swytch Air (gen 3) kit installed Jan '23 on a Dahon Mu8. Maybe 75 miles on it. This is a 20" wheel.
Will not consistently run with or w/o pedal assist.
Checked connections and pins, all good. No evidence of corrosion or liquid intrusion. Connections are tight and fully inserted (arrows together).
Tested with full or partially discharged battery.
When set to lowest allowed speed, with load (riding), runs to 4mph and dies with a flashing red exclamation and "26"
When set to highest allowed speed, with load (riding), runs to 10mph and dies with a flashing red exclamation and "26".
The wheel size is set properly to 20".
Throttle operates normally under no load condition.
No odd sounds or excessive resistance in the motor wheel, either plugged in or unplugged.
Pedal sensor set properly and red light flashes when it should.
Tested different wheel size settings, no change. Set back to 20".
I do not have the brake sensors.

Contacted Swytch on 12 Sept. They gave the following to try. None of it has worked. Sent a response to them on the 19th, after testing failed, and have not heard back from them since. Does anyone have any diagnostics that I could try? Thank you in advance.

[person] 17 Sept 2024, 12:58 pm BST Hi there, Thank you for your email. The motor hub is designed to run when the bike is on the move, the airflow of the ride itself cools down the motor hub and it will work properly. Could you please check the motor cable connector and pins if there is no damage, also make sure the connector is installed firmly. If this will not help, please try the following. 1. Check the pedal sensor and magnetic disk alignment, does the light flash when the pedals are turned? a) First, in order for your motor to engage when pedalling, you will need to ensure at least PAS level 1 is selected on your display. [yes] b) Is the magnetic disk installed the correct way around? [yes] c) Is the magnet disk passing side to side over the pedal sensor? [yes] d) Is the distance between the magnet disk and pedal sensor between 1-4mm? [yes] e) Is the red light flickering when the magnets pass the sensor from left to right (forward motion)? [yes] 2. Can you activate the walk test mode? (This is not possible with the LED display, you can skip this part) [skipped, I have the LED Display, throttle works] You can do this by holding down the down arrow button, please hold it for 20-30 seconds. The front wheel should start and continue to spin at a smooth and constant speed. 3. Please can you perform the following? a) Disconnect the power pack from the bike. b) Spin the wheel backwards, taking particular note of any resistance or noise. [no noise or difference in resistance from new] c) Repeat this with the power pack connected to the bracket. [no noise or difference in resistance from new] Let us know if you notice any excessive resistance/noise or any difference with the power pack connected to the bracket. Please send a video of this test if possible. If there is NO change in resistance then please follow the next steps: Please carry out a factory reset on your power pack before attempting to ride again. Instructions for this can are listed below: LED display manual instructions (link) [there is no reset!] 4. Finally, it may be that your settings are not set up correctly after a reset. Please check that your wheel size setting is correct, you can check your wheel size using this guide. [correct] Check that your speed setting is set to the standard 25kmph option. [tested all speed settings] Check that your power limit setting is set to the standard, middle option. [yup, did that] Finally, check that your PAS direction is set to forwards (base display only). [doesn't apply]

 

[saneagle]

Your LCD is the same as a Bafang SW102, but it doesn't necessarily have the same software in it. If it is the same, code 26 means a hall sensor error. It's a bit strange that it does it at particular speeds because speed shouldn't affect hall sensor function and current goes down as speed goes up, so probably isn't related to current. It sounds to me like time might be involved. If the controller takes some fixed time to figure out that something isn't right, that would account for the difference in speeds at different power levels. Most errors would be detected immediately.

Before going further, could you test it again, keeping an eye on the battery indicator. Does it go down just before you get the cutout or does it hold steady showing full?

At this stage, I'd be looking carefully at the motor cable to see that it's not squished by a cable tie or damaged in some other way, especially where it comes out of the axle. That's the most logical cause.