Street Machine GT conversion

I'm struggling here.

I want to get rid of the Dillinger kit on this bike but am struggling to find supplies.

So, here's what I'm looking for:

Rear wheel hub, cassette or free wheel, don't mind, currently has a 7 speed fitted. 26" wheel.

9 or 12 Fet controller (there's a lot of hills around here).

Hydraulic brake sensor.

Not fussy on display, I actually prefer leds.

Thumb throttle

 

I have two 36v batteries that I run in parrallel, would be nice to use those if poss. But the bike currently has a 48v Dillinger battery (condition unkown), slung under the frame..

Leisure and utility riding around West Wales, so lots of climbing, need a high torque motor . 15mph fine.

 

Most kits I've found are tied in with things I don't want/need, happy to to put components together if they can be found.

 

PSWPower are offering this:

https://www.pswpower.com/products/bafang-8fun-36v-250w-swxh-rm-g010250d-rear-freewheel-rm-g120250dc-rear-cassette-wheel-ebike-motor-for-conversion-116

Are they a reliable source these days? I notice they have an Amazon store, anybody tried it?

Whose buying parts these days, where are you going?

Thanks

Ben

Have a look on topbikekit .com or their aliexp store.

201rpm will be a bit better then 261rpm for hills ,not forgetting if you do go 48v then both RPM's will 33% faster.

Good shout Neil, thanks.

Hard to tell from the photos but it looks like the motors are unlabelled. Is that right? 'Cos if so the 100H looks apealing.

Which part of Wales? Would a 350W hub motor be powerful enough for North Wales? There's no standing on pedals advantage of course while recumbed.

Edited April 19, 20233 yr by guerney

http://www.crystalyte.com/

 

If compatible, you should be able to manage most Welsh hills with a legal mid-drive, on the end?

It's west Wales that I've been cycling for years on a front hub with only a body weight shift to the front, on steep bits, and no standing.

Current kit is based on an Ezee. So it's this high torque that I would look to replicate. If I could find an unmarked Bafang BPM, that'd be nice.

Here's why I don't want a mid drive:

1 I need to keep 3 front rings.

2 Prefer the bullet proof reliability of hubs.

3 I want the cadence to be my cadence not that required by the motor.

4 Really not into faffing around with settings and programming, just want to ride the thing.

I've never had a motor bog down yet, though there has been the occaisional controller thermal cut out in hot weather. This is why I'd prefer a 9 or 12 fet controller.

Many moons ago I used to work for BT. I saw what 50v D.C. was capable of, although with potential of extremely high current.

It makes me a bit wary of 48v. Is it really OK - out in the wet (does happen even though I try to avoid it)?

The AKM128c is 500w , though mine isn't marked as such.

3 I want the cadence to be my cadence not that required by the motor.

 

At low current PAS, my BBS01B's cadence preference isn't noticeable. It's a different story at level 9 and full 15A, but I'm lucky that my preferred cadence and the BBS01B's is compatible, or has become so.

 

 

4 Really not into faffing around with settings and programming, just want to ride the thing.

 

No sweat in that regard, compared to the TSDZ2.

Preferring to stay at 36v I'm looking at this

https://www.topbikekit.com/akm100h-36v350w-ebike-rear-driving-hub-motor-p-679.html?zenid=uneijs4gkrjafo7kuukugufi07

No torque figures are quoted so not sure how it compares.

Preferring to stay at 36v I'm looking at this

https://www.topbikekit.com/akm100h-36v350w-ebike-rear-driving-hub-motor-p-679.html?zenid=uneijs4gkrjafo7kuukugufi07

No torque figures are quoted so not sure how it compares.

AKM100 is too small and can't handle the current you need. Use an AKM 128 260 rpm if you want normal speed or 201 rpm if you're happy with around 12mph modal speed. Both versions would be OK at 22 amps. The label peals off, then you have a motor that looks like any 250w one. The freewheel version is good for 7 speed and can handle more power than the cassette version.

 

Personally, I'd bite the bullet and go up to 48v, which is significantly better than 36v for hill-climbing. If you get the 36v 201 rpm version of the AKM128, you would have the option to go up to 48v in the future, and if you get a KT 36v/48v controller, all you'd need to change would be the battery when your 36v ones expire.

That's the info I need, thanks. I seemed to remember you praising the 128 in the past.

So we are looking at this one then:

https://www.topbikekit.com/akm128h-36v48v-800w-rear-driving-hub-motor-for-ebike-p-889.html?zenid=hu5kfe8pjohgvnvvi7c8o49nt6

They are recommending the T12H controller which, at 40A max, has my batteries quivering as I type. So would the T09S with it's 22A max be OK.

Good shout on 36 going to 48v. This allows me to use up both my Jimmy built batteries and up the torque as my aging legs fade.

Would this mean buying the 36v rated motor then overvolting it later so getting an rpm increase as well?

One thing I’ve noticed is that AKM motor doesn’t have any flats on the motor shaft. Which is probably ok if you want to run at 250 watts, but if you intend to booost the power then you won’t be able to use any torque washers or torque arms on it

 

One thing I’ve noticed is that AKM motor doesn’t have any flats on the motor shaft. Which is probably ok if you want to run at 250 watts, but if you intend to booost the power then you won’t be able to use any torque washers or torque arms on it

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="B3FAE401-2255-4ECC-B3DF-348C6A3A439A.png]51238[/ATTACH]

That can't be right, can it? They're showing torque washers with the nut assembly. Aren't the diagonal lines on the shaft indicative of a flat?

I would think that a motor without flats is a spin out waiting to happen.

Maybe it does. I’ve just had a look again and some of the photos indicate that it has flats, but they are low resolution. So it could be good to go.

 

The technical drawing doesn’t show the dimensions for the flats. It should say 12mm x 10 mm

Yeah, I think the cross hatching on the drawing indicates the flats.

They have 12 x 10 the same as any other hub.

Not seen the AKM128 HCST before pretty power full beasty cassette motor and still geared.

 

36v/201rpm at 48v will be approx . 260 - 268rpm.

I haven't under volted a 48v hub but assume a 260rpm would be a mountain goat at 36v .

Edited April 22, 20233 yr by Nealh

I've put together a list of gear. This assumes that I'll start with existing 36v batteries and migrate to 48v when I've learned the handling of the 'bent'.

Therefore I've specced a 36v motor (which is quoted at 201rpm) which should take it to around 280rpm at 48v, when I'm ready for higher modal speed.

Motor AKM-128H 36v c/w built in speed sensor.

7 speed freewheel

Controller T09s 36/48v c/w recommended hydraulic brake sensor

Throttle TBK-130D c/w standard plug to match controller

Pas Recommended one is KT-D12L Not a big fan of two part magnet discs, I've had them slip in the past. If another with one part disc would be suitable , I'd go with that.

I'm aware the standard plugs are not waterproof but that's not insurmountable and they allow for easier testing should it be needed.

Have I missed anything?

I use Anderson power poles for battery connections and have my own splitter for dual battery use.

 

Oops ! forgot display.

I like this one for it's minimilism:

https://www.topbikekit.com/ktlcd4-24v36v48v-lcd-meter-display-with-sm-plug-for-ebike-p-841.html?zenid=ss3jqem3flv6k1hsdjph15qlb6

Edited April 23, 20233 yr by Benjahmin

I've put together a list of gear. This assumes that I'll start with existing 36v batteries and migrate to 48v when I've learned the handling of the 'bent'.

Therefore I've specced a 36v motor (which is quoted at 201rpm) which should take it to around 280rpm at 48v, when I'm ready for higher modal speed.

Motor AKM-128H 36v c/w built in speed sensor.

7 speed freewheel

Controller T09s 36/48v c/w recommended hydraulic brake sensor

Throttle TBK-130D c/w standard plug to match controller

Pas Recommended one is KT-D12L Not a big fan of two part magnet discs, I've had them slip in the past. If another with one part disc would be suitable , I'd go with that.

I'm aware the standard plugs are not waterproof but that's not insurmountable and they allow for easier testing should it be needed.

Have I missed anything?

I use Anderson power poles for battery connections and have my own splitter for dual battery use.

 

Oops ! forgot display.

I like this one for it's minimilism:

https://www.topbikekit.com/ktlcd4-24v36v48v-lcd-meter-display-with-sm-plug-for-ebike-p-841.html?zenid=ss3jqem3flv6k1hsdjph15qlb6

Use a 10 magnet standard PAS or 8 magnet if they don't have one - less head scratching.

 

LCD4 is very good, but the small buttons are not easy to work with thick winter gloves.

Edited April 23, 20233 yr by saneagle

Yes, did wonder about the 12 magnets, seem to recall people having issues.

Not too bothered about changing levels, though this may be because my Ezee is speed control rather than current level.

The usual bar end shifter would be indexed for 9 speeds and switched to non-indexed when your old motor was fitted. With 9sp you could get at least 34T and maybe smoother shifts.

 

Current kit is based on an Ezee. So it's this high torque that I would look to replicate. If I could find an unmarked Bafang BPM, that'd be nice.

 

The AKM128, BPM, Shengyi SY22 and your Ezee are all in the same power bracket but the AKM is 3/4 the weight so it may overheat sooner than the others if your hills are tough. An Ezee or BPM for example, it wouldn't guarantee a safety margin as there are so many other influences, but here's _an_ Ezee and a motor nearly the weight of the AKM managing 2 miles or half a mile on a 15% climb:

 

https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?bopen=true&motor=MEZEE250&motor_b=MG310_STD&frame=semi&frame_b=semi&hp_b=100&hp=100&axis=mph&grade=15&grade_b=15

 

The AKM128, BPM, Shengyi SY22 and your Ezee are all in the same power bracket but the AKM is 3/4 the weight so it may overheat sooner than the others if your hills are tough. An Ezee or BPM for example, it wouldn't guarantee a safety margin as there are so many other influences, but here's _an_ Ezee and a motor nearly the weight of the AKM managing 2 miles or half a mile on a 15% climb:

 

AKM 128 is rated at 800w, those others are only 500w. Size and weight have nothing to do with over-heating. It's winding speed and efficiency that matter.

There are some tough hills. I take the 50% approach, that is I try to keep the minimum climbing speed equal to or greater than 50% of the modal speed. So around 8mph for a 15mph motor.

My Ezee has never felt even vaguely warm, the controller however is a different matter. Hence the 9 fets.

I would opt for a bz 10c pas if you have a hollowtech type BB, never yet had a slip or issue with the two parts pas set up bar the 12 pole not playing ball. Ever since a 10 pole has been my go to option. Simply set C1 /1 and it will work.