SRAM ex 1 & new bike

[Denis99]

hi,

I will be having a new ebike next week, it's a long story which involves a warranty replacement.

The new bike I have chosen will have the new SRAM ex 1 cassette, rear mech and shifter.

I'm aware of the current high cost of a replacement 8 speed cassette, but the price of these cassettes will fall over time.

The cassette is case hardened, and the smaller three cogs on the cassette can be replaced individually .

Will continue to use at least two chains, and change the chain over every third ride, as I have done on all bikes for many years.
Uses a cheaper 10 speed chain which will also help.

Any real world use appreciated though.

 

[RobF]

I'm confused, isn't the Sram cassette 11 speed?

If so, I don't think it's compatible with a 10 speed chain.

Perhaps you could post a link to the bike or the exact model of cassette.

 

[Denis99]

No, it's the new sram ebike specific group set.

The cassette is 8 speed, rear mech is for 8 speed and the shifter only allows one gear shift at a time.
Uses a 10 speed chain though as the tooth profile is matched to the 8 speed teeth profile.

 

[RobF]

No, it's the new sram ebike specific group set.

The cassette is 8 speed, rear mech is for 8 speed and the shifter only allows one gear shift at a time.
Uses a 10 speed chain though as the tooth profile is matched to the 8 speed teeth profile.

Fair enough.

As a general point, I'm not sure changing the chain often is a good idea.

Chains get keyed to a cassette as both wear, which is why plonking a new chain on an old cassette can result in slipping gears where none existed before.

Using one chain and keeping the drivetrain reasonably clean would be my suggestion.

On my derailer bike, I wash the chain and cassette in car wax shampoo - same as the rest of the bike - wipe it dry and lube only with GT85.

That's a very light lube, so it needs to be done regularly, but an advantage is the chain doesn't pick up grit.

 

[Denis99]

Can't agree about using one chain only.

Rotating at least two chains every three rides is a better way to reduce the wear on the chainring and cassette.

Remove the chain, clean the rear mech jockey wheels and front chainring.
Fit a clean chain that has been lubed, dose the chain you have taken off in some white spirits, and use an old paint brush to get all the grit and old lube out.

WD40 doesn't have any lubrication properties, its quite good for cleaning and driving out water though.

Must have been rotating at least two chains for the last 15 years, definitely prolongs the drivechain components.

If you replace the chains at the 0.75 wear indicator using the Park tool chain guide, you can prolong the life of the cassette for quite a bit of mileage.

Another bonus of doing this, is that the drivechain is always pretty clean giving really good shifting for the majority of the time.

I am talking mainly about all year round mountain biking as opposed to the less aggressive use for road biking here.

 

[trouty]

I have the EX1 stuff on my bike and found it very good
wear wise cant say as only done 200 ish miles
but the larger gears are as you say case hardened tool steel so should last for ages ( I hope ) it is a work of art to look at

 

[RobF]

Can't agree about using one chain only.

Fair enough, but you did ask.

Tend to agree about WD40, which is why I use GT85.

Although WD vs GT could be a thread in itself.

One of the guys on the Global Cycling Network video channel uses my method with WD40.

That is for a road biking where lubrication requirements may be less onerous, although the guy in the vid says he uses same method for his CX and mountain bikes.

 

[Denis99]

cheers rob,

But the two chain method does extend the life of any drivechain system.

I was asking for some info of any users who had been using the new EX 1 drive components really.

Personally, I don't like squirting WD40 or GT85 anywhere near the cassette due to the spray potentially contaminating the disc and rear brake pads.

I watched the video, and he gave the brake calipers a fair squirt of the stuff. Same applies here with the brake blocks and rims, once the GT85 gets on the rims, the brake blocks won't like it.

 

[Denis99]

Just as a way of explanation, my chain maintenance routine.

Bit laborious, but it works.

two new chains initially, can be three , but this makes it more difficult to keep track of which one is which.

Firstly, remove from the packaging and thoroughly degrease with white spirit. The grease that comes with the packaging from the manufacturer will attract lots of grit, and make a real mess on chainring and cassette.

Cut both to length.

Clean and relube after every ride. Nothing too fancy, but after washing the bike, dry rag pulled around the chain.

I have used loads of different chain lubes, but eventually found one that works very well, albeit it needs relubing after every ride.
Wickens and Sonderstrom, one small drop on each link.

Keep the chain on the bike for three rides.

After three rides, remove, clean drivechain, and fit the spare clean chain.

Clean the dirty chain ready for the next time.

Keep repeating, periodically measuring the chain. When the chain tool indicates 0.75% wear, throw the two chains away, and start the whole thing over again.

No need for replacement cassette or chainrings.

Lasts a long time like this.

 

[EddiePJ]

Each to their own, but I choose not to put WD40 anywhere near my bike, as it seemingly does next to nothing as a lubricant, but is very good at breaking down grease within bearings. GT40 just smells nice, but that is as far as that one goes for me.

I do get through plenty of Duck oil on the bike though, but don't intentionally lube the chain with it. Duck oil forms part of my initial bike cleaning process, and is blasted back off again with an air line.

Denis, if you do ever want to lubricate the cassette whilst the bike remains complete, there is a very simply way.

Just cut a slot into one piece of plastic sheet and slide into place, then slide an uncut sheet onto the underside. This piece does not require a slot, and serves to cover the hole cut into the upper sheet, and also protect the rim and tyre below.

The worst thing that I ever put on a chain to try as a lubricant, was ACF50. I use ACF50 to protect items such as nuts and bolts, but if you ever want a product that dirt and grime clings to, then that is it. That really did take some removing from the chain.

 

[Denis99]

Yes, I have used ACF50 in the past, on motorbikes.

Was great for putting down a layer of defence over the winter.
As you said, everything gets stuck to it, for a motorbike it was great on the engine casings as it stopped the corrosion on the alloy.

Far too sticky for chain lube though.