Help! SR Suntour Resurrection Project - 'P' and 'C' values?

Bikes4two

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  • A friend of mine was given a Carrera Vulcan as the previous owner had got fed up trying to fix it. In their frustration the owner had cut out and removed most of the cables and sensors so my friend inherited the battery and Suntour HESC motor (plus bike of course) but little else.
  • Onwards and upwards and the plan was to use said motor and battery but to make a fresh start with a different controller, display and PAS namely:
    - a KT T-06S 24V/36V250W Torque Simulation Sine Wave Brushless Controller
    - a KT LCD3 display
    - a KT-V6 easy fitting PAS sensor (Outputs 6 signals per revolution and fits on the non drive side)
    - plus various connectors, leads and other minor paraphenalia
  • So today was the first road test and is all work BUT the motor was very noisy!
  • Now, neither of us would claim to be knowledgeable about this sort of work and whilst we know that the controller requires 'P' and 'C' parameters to be set accordingly and we have a good LCD3 manual that tells us all about said parameters, but not of course what the parameter values need to be for this particular kit configuration.
  • As a starting point (based on a similar project) we are going to try the values shown below, but that is just guess work. Therefore dear forunites, any pointers as to where we might find the right values, or any suggestions from your good selves, would be gratefully appreciated, especially around how to determine the P1 and C1 values.
  • Finally, I should have asked from the beginning and that is, is the kit we've chosen going to work with the Suntour HESC?
Many thanks.
44417
 

Nealh

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The noise if loud electrical is likely a phase sync issue, if so one shouldn't run the bike like it. C2 is for phase so you can try the other C2 values if C2/0 doesn't cure it.
Are you able to post a sound/short film of the motor running ?

The conversion to kt has been done successfully before on the forum.
 
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Bikes4two

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The noise if loud electrical is likely a phase sync issue, if so one shouldn't run the bike like it. C2 is for phase so you can try the other C2 values if C2/0 doesn't cure it.
Are you able to post a sound/short film of the motor running ?

The conversion to kt has been done successfully before on the forum.
Thanks @Nealh - it's good to know the KT kit will get us there eventually - time to get the pen and pencil out and make a few changes and to note the effect and also to attempt an audio recording of the motor.

As an aside, I note from this post here that @tim25 confirmed the hall wiring colours between the HESC motor and the kt sinewave T-06S controller are the same, so that's one potential problem area out of the equation.
 

Bikes4two

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This is the controller settings i am using with the Suntour hesc motor
Kt lcd4 display
Kt controllerT09S 36V/48V

image attached shows my p and c settings, im not an expert but it is working well
Many thanks @tim25 - can I ask what PAS have you fitted and I'm guessing it's on the non-drive side? Thanks - B4t
 

Nealh

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C1/06 is a double hall type like the all in one V12L.
C8 makes no difference what ever value you choose as motors don't have a heat sensor, the lcd 3 will display amb air temp as might some of the others.

Other wise the settings are pretty std and much the same as I use except P1 as this depends on the motor.
 
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Bikes4two

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......... C2 is for phase so you can try the other C2 values if C2/0 doesn't cure it.
Just to say that after playing with the C2 values, we found that C2 = 4 got the motor running to what sounded to be normal (and a considerable and marked improvement over that originally report when C2 = 0)
The conversion to kt has been done successfully before on the forum.
Yes indeed - in the conversion we used a:
  • KT T-06S 24V/36V250W Torque Simulation Sine Wave controller with Julei Waterproof Connector (T06S controller Waterproof Plug)
  • KT V6 Easy Fitting PAS (on the non-drive side) for which C1 = 2 was set (unlike @tim25 setting where he used C2=6 for his KT-V12L)
  • A KT LCD5 display
  • Plus standard e-brakes, replacement connection leads etc.
All parts were purchased from UK sellers and came in at around the £200 mark - if purchased from China the cost would have been more like £120.

So thanks to @tim25 for the P and C settings which were broadly followed (with the exception of C1, C2 mentioned above) and to @Nealh for the C2 recommendation which was indeed the route to solving the noisy motor.
 
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Nealh

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C2 is the phase setting and changes the phase combos by trickery without physically touching them. It is very rare to here KT's being set to other then C2/0 to work correctly but the fact C2/4 is quieter is good to hear.
The noise is electrical and phase sequence/sync not agreeing so the signal becomes coarse/louder.
 
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Bikes4two

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  • Thanks @Nealh for your comment.
  • My knowledge of how BLDC motors work is barely above minimal, but I can imaging that individual motor designs e.g. coil shape and positioning in relation to the permanent magnets and placement of the hall sensors and the vagaries of the sensors themselves, might require slightly different timings for optimal coil energising/efficiency?
  • Clearly KT recognise this possibility, hence the parameter setting being there in the first place.
  • Thus maybe the setting against the C2 parameter is a timing adjustment? I'm just guessing really (I'm a retired electrical engineer - a little knowledge can be scary :rolleyes: )
  • Anyway, with C2/0 the motor was so noisy it had heads turning in the street and as my friend had had the motor apart to solder in a new cable, he was wondering if he'd introduced a mechanical issue on re-assembly - the noise was that pronounced.