the controller is faulty on my ebike, its a Halfords Carrera with the SR Suntour system, the rear drive wheel is fine as is the display, I know I will have to buty a controller and display together, but its a minefield of which to choose from, want a decent one not from China, any suggestions please ?
SR Suntour controller
- Thread starter billy boy
- Start date
Upgrading a Carrera Vengeance E spec - what options do I have?
First post, hi all. With no prior knowledge of electric bikes before purchase, I got a very nice price on my 2020 model Carrera Vengeance E-spec which I’ve owned for 2 months. I’ve put about 700km onto it without any problems other than that I’d like to upgrade it to be either faster or longer...
www.pedelecs.co.uk
Why do you think it's faulty? They don't normally go wrong. Problems are normally elsewhere.
when you plug the battery in there is a massive arc on the positive cable, which without anything plugged in, cable to drive wheel, display and pedal assist sensor it still does it, when the battery is in position there is no feed to the display, I have checked the display with an aux supply and that's fine.
The display works independently from the controller, so if it has no power, the issue could be nothing to do with the controller.
It's normal to get a big spark when connecting a controller to the battery, but if it makes the battery switch off, you have a short in the controller that's normally a blown MOSFET. Therefore, the first thing to check is whether the battery switches off when you connect it. If it does, you do the MOSFET test.
so much of a spark that it melts the actual prongs between the battery and the holder, the battery doesn't switch off, what is the MOSFEST test ? Just looked at what a Mosfest is and it looks like it is part of the controller ?
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You get a normal multi-meter, set it to 20k resistance scale, disconnect the controller from everything, then stick one probe on the battery negative connector on the controller and the other on each of the three thick motor wires (blue, green and yellow) to get three readings. Repeat with the first probe on the battery positive connector to get another 3 readings. each group of three should be the same as each other and all results should be in the range 3k to 25k. If any show zero, you have a blown MOSFET that's causing a dead short on the battery.
Tell us what results you get.
I have just carried out the test, I had to use the pins in the plug to the motor, as the cables are all sealed, two connections gave me 3.35 on both positive & negative, the third connection was 0.5, so does that make the one circuit u/s and the controller needs replacing ?
Possibly. How did the problem start? Those sort of things can't happen by themselves.
0.5 seems a little high. Is your meter automatic, so it switched scales? The question is 0.5 what? You should always check the units.
No they were all on the same scale, my multimeter has one setting for ohms but you can change range, I left it on what it was when I turned it to ohms, then tested them all on the same setting. Its my Granddaughter's bike, it started shortly after she had an accident and went over the handlebars ! no damage to the bike at all but then this issue started.
I have powered up the lcd from the controller with an aux supply end and that's fine and cannot see any damage on any of the cables.
I don't understand that. Can you explain? Does it change range automatically? If so, what range was it on when it showed 0.5?
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