Small Rear Xiongda Motor

The small rear xiongda motor with controller/lcd/packaging, weighing under 2kg. It's tiny.

 

It is a freewheel motor 135mm wide dropout axle width. It will take an 8 speed freewheel with 3or4mm spacer washers on the freewheel side which would maybe need taking into consideration when measuring for spoke lengths.

I chose to fit this to my wifes leasure bike since it's wheel rim has 36holes and I could also re-use the 6spd freewheel and tyre too.

I am still trying ideas about controller/battery fitting but trying this for now. Spot the motor-

 

What are you using for a battery? I'm using a 10S2P LG HG2 one.

That's incredible! I can't believe how stealthy that install is. How much torque do you think can be reliably generated by this motor?

d8veh posted about it here:

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/new-tiny-xiongda-motor.27981/

at maximum output (341W, 168RPM) , torque is 19.4NM.

Useful torque range: 20-25NM.

I need help with the controller wiring. I think it is a Lishui controller

The connectors I don't know about are-

1x red/black/earth - ?

1x red/black/white - ?

1x red/black/blue - ?

2x black/grey - brake cutoffs?

1x white 4pin block?

Edited July 9, 20178 yr by awol

What are you using for a battery? I'm using a 10S2P LG HG2 one.

For now it's got 10s 6.6ah multistar lipo's which will only be used when I'm about.If she likes it I will look at a rear pannier shelf with something more permanent on there.

1x red/black/earth - ?

1x red/black/white - ?

1x red/black/blue - ?

 

you have pedal sensor, speed sensor and throttle.

can you post a picture of these connectors before I could tell which one is which?

 

2x black/grey - brake cutoffs? yes. If you use a Julet cableset, you only need to connect to one grey.

1x white 4pin block: programming cable, with cover

1x red/black/earth - ?

1x red/black/white - ?

1x red/black/blue - ?

 

you have pedal sensor, speed sensor and throttle.

can you post a picture of these connectors before I could tell which one is which?

 

2x black/grey - brake cutoffs? yes. If you use a Julet cableset, you only need to connect to one grey.

1x white 4pin block: programming cable, with cover

awol,

 

I don't have that model, so can't be certain. Usually, I am guided by the male/female connectors to match up the wires.

The Lishui controllers I know have a white AMP style connector for the throttle so it's impossible to make a mistake. In the LSW928, black seems to be ground, red 5V supply and the third wire is signal (white, blue and earth).

Andy knows all Lishui controllers, I'll ask him tomorrow if you still don't know which one is which.

My reckoning:

Red black and white = speed sensor from motor cable

Red black grenn/yellow = PAS

Red black blur = throttle

black and grey = brakes

White 4-pin = programming.

 

Throttle and PAS could be the other way round, so try with just the throttle connected first until you've identified its connector because if yoy connected the PAS to the throttle connector, you can get fixed full throttle. Don't forget to check the connection sequence in each connector.

This motor does have a huge potential! We will have to see how it holds out heat wise on long climbs. I have tried using 350 W - plus my 120 W gives a handy 470 W - peak on my regular climb and it works, about 15 km/h top speed but it is just enough to help people like me with weak lungs get about.

Thanks for the controller help.

I didn't want to short something out and wanted to check first.

I opted for trying the throttle first idea and can confirm the

red/black/blue = PAS

red/black/earth = throttle

red/black/white = speed which as I found out comes from the motor and is connected on the motor wire.

It runs nice and smooth and quiet, now for some riding about.

I'm jealous now because I'm still waiting for my spokes.

I'm jealous now because I'm still waiting for my spokes.

I couldn't wait so made my own with some longer galv spokes I had in the garage and one of those cyclo thread rollers.

This motor does have a huge potential! We will have to see how it holds out heat wise on long climbs. I have tried using 350 W - plus my 120 W gives a handy 470 W - peak on my regular climb and it works, about 15 km/h top speed but it is just enough to help people like me with weak lungs get about.

Not sure about the heat on constant higher amps yet but a quick 10 mins up the road and back I got-

460 watts peak

12.6 amps peak

I will feel how hot it gets next time up a long steep hill.

Some power readings with the battery charged to 40v and the wheel off the floor-

PAS -- MPH -- Amps Peak -- Watts Peak

1 ------ 5.6 ------ 0.85 -------- 34

2 ------ 9.5 ------ 1.2 -------- 36

3 ------ 12.3 ------ 1.3 -------- 50

4 ------ 14.2 ------ 2.3 -------- 92

5 ------ 16.2 ------ 3.0 -------- 118

Throttle -- 19.5 ---- 4.0 ----- 158

Edited July 10, 20178 yr by awol

Then power readings whilst riding with 80kg total weight -

PAS -- MPH -- Amps Peak -- Watts Peak

1 ------ 5. ------ 4.5 -------- 180

2 ------ 8.5 ------ 9 -------- 350

3 ------ 11 ------ 11.5 -------- 440

4 ------ 13 ------ 11.5 -------- 440

5 ------ 15 ------ 12 -------- 462

Throttle -- 17 ---- 12.1 ----- 463

Edited July 10, 20178 yr by awol

Brilliant work! Lovely numbers!

Thanks for that, Awol. I really appreciate it. What's the torque like compared with your old MXUS motor? did you try any hills?

 

I'm still waiting for my spokes. Everything else is done. You'll love my battery.

What's the torque like compared with your old MXUS motor?

I will take them both out this evening, one after the other to compare.

We will have to see how it holds out heat wise on long climbs.

I will try it on a relatively steep climb later and check it's temp. Should I just whack the throttle on max all the way up and pedal as much as needed?

That should get it hot.

 

I used to pedal a lot uphill with the hub motor and use the assistance levels as a front crankset (the derailleur was disconnected on the old bike - broken shifter). Nowadays I would actually use the front crankset and just use the motor to give me the extra Watts to climb without getting hot and sweaty.

The amount of pedalling shouldn't make a difference. The only thing that affects the motor is the amount of throttle and it's speed, though you need to pedal hard enough to stop the motor going too slow, so the questions are: How slow can it go at full throttle before it gets too hot? How hard do you have to pedal to prevent that. The second question should be turned the other way. How much assistance does the motor give so that you don't have to pedal hard to stop it from over-heating?

Full throttle up longish hills with no real pedalling slowed me down to about 10mph by the top then pottering around for about 15mins up some inclines along flats, all with no pedalling and throttle on full where poss ending with a small steep incline which again with no real pedalling slowed me down to 7mph and the motor got slightly warm measuring 33c deg with my laser thermometer.

Edited July 11, 20178 yr by awol

What's the torque like compared with your old MXUS motor?

It doesn't have as much torque as the MXUS but is noticably smoother and quieter also the MXUS bike is set to 17a though.