Slime.

Can you put slime in any bike tyre, or is it better the buy tyres that puncture less, if there is such a thing?

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/slime-self-sealing-inner-tube-schrader-valve-/rp-prod180636?gs=1&sku=sku695249&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_medium=base&gclid=CjwKCAiAkfucBhBBEiwAFjbkrwrvYHOrv0hC1VVbBuABO-jjLyuyPUTL1b1oSjYrltX_xEKijv0ldBoChXoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

they do work but going fully tubeless with sealant is the way to go.

 

as for tyres i use super gravity ones used for hard down hill riding but there like 1.1kg each and i have never had a flat or anything even make it in to the inside of the tyre.

 

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-magic-mary-evo-super-gravity-mtb-tyre/rp-prod203496

 

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/effetto-mariposa-caffelatex-tyre-sealant-1000ml?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360739853&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_medium=base&gclid=CjwKCAiAkfucBhBBEiwAFjbkr07XwsQmtnQjnvopj2ctRHj3QsSK0Y9flZNocEUx_kUFsf52yascMBoCf0gQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

you just top up every 3 months with 50ml each wheel

I've not tried tubeless; where practicable that probably is the way to go.

 

I've tried slime, complete pain. It didn't stop a puncture, and a mess over the inner tube (practically unrepairable) and the inside of the outer. Other people have reported good success with it; my experience was some years ago, so maybe they have better slime these days?

 

Marathon Plus have been brilliant for me over many years; but the ride is not the smoothest and very poor sideways grip, eg in thin mud.

I've not tried tubeless; where practicable that probably is the way to go.

 

I've tried slime, complete pain. It didn't stop a puncture, and a mess over the inner tube (practically unrepairable) and the inside of the outer. Other people have reported good success with it; my experience was some years ago, so maybe they have better slime these days?

 

Marathon Plus have been brilliant for me over many years; but the ride is not the smoothest and very poor sideways grip, eg in thin mud.

 

SJPT Interesting thanks for that., Just that at my age, I don't want to struggle with punctures while out on a ride to be honest. I expect the type of tyres you get on cheaper Chinese bikes are the worse, maybe someone will correct me? I'll just have to watch a few more "How to repair a puncture" videos I guess and be prepared.

I've also tried slime, more than once with different makes, completely useless, just makes a mess.

 

Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre are a far better solution. Not ideal tyres but in many years with them only one slow puncture from a long thorn. After a pumping top up, I was still able to ride 12 miles home without repairing it first.

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I've recently changed to Schwalbe Marathon plus. I had a puncture on the first outing, but none in 4 weeks since (probably about 150 miles). I put a slime tube as a replacement for the punctured tube and will replace the other with a slimed one if and when that gets punctured. Previous to changing tyres I had a couple of bad weekends with punctures. I do live in rural North Wales and there was a lot of hedgecutting going on then. A friend put Schwalbe Smart Sam Plus on his. He also had a puncture on the first day of use and now swears by the combination of the Schwalbe puncture resistant tyres with a slimed tube.

I find continental top contact plus is better in the wet than the marathon plus, more expensive though.

I don't want to struggle with punctures while out on a ride to be honest. I expect the type of tyres you get on cheaper Chinese bikes are the worse, maybe someone will correct me?

The OP is hoping to cycle canal paths. IMHO Marathon Plus are great for on-road use, but too slippy for the varied terrain you often find on canal paths. I'd have thought one of the other Schwalbe tyres - a wider, trekking oriented tyre might be better for both comfort and grip on a mix of smooth paved, rough paved, loose stone, ash, mud, grass... Whatever the style/purpose of tyre, Schwalbe often offer a choice of added puncture protection (reflected in the cost of the tyre), as some other tyre makers do too (Kenda etc).

 

The tyres fitted on new lower cost e-bikes tend to be CST or Kenda, and be of a style to match the primary purpose of the bike... so minimal tread for a commuter or road bike, a mix of tread for trekking, or knobbly for off-road. IMO they're passable enough to get you started riding but it's always good to practice puncture repair, because even if you upgrade to a more expensive puncture resistant tyre like Marathon Pluses (renowned for their resilience to punctures) they're never totally foolproof.

The OP is hoping to cycle canal paths. IMHO Marathon Plus are great for on-road use, but too slippy for the varied terrain you often find on canal paths.

 

Schwalbe do versions of the Marathon Plus with different treads like this MTB one that Chain Reaction Cycles are selling:

 

That's my bad. I didn't realise Schwalbe did so many variants of tyre wearing the same "Marathon Plus" name. Those Marathon Plus MTBs are listed in Schwalbes city/tour section (i.e. not in their cross, gravel or MTB section). Would they be preferable to some of their other softer/more compliant compound offerings for towpath use?

 

I've got Marathon Plus on two of my e-bikes, and Marathon Greenguard on my e-folder: The Green is definitely a more comfortable/compliant/forgiving tyre with less "puncture band" (3mm instead of 5mm). It doesn't seem to want to slip as much in the wet although I don't know if that's because it has a more open tread or is a softer compound (no punctures yet).

That's my bad. I didn't realise Schwalbe did so many variants of tyre wearing the same "Marathon Plus" name. Those Marathon Plus MTBs are listed in Schwalbes city/tour section (i.e. not in their cross, gravel or MTB section). Would they be preferable to some of their other softer/more compliant compound offerings for towpath use?

 

I've got Marathon Plus on two of my e-bikes, and Marathon Greenguard on my e-folder: The Green is definitely a more comfortable/compliant/forgiving tyre with less "puncture band" (3mm instead of 5mm). It doesn't seem to want to slip as much in the wet although I don't know if that's because it has a more open tread or is a softer compound (no punctures yet).

 

Any stiffer tyre will have somewhat less grip on undulating surfaces than one with a softer compound, but I'd guess that knobbly tread on the MTB version would make up for it. There's an intermediate one as well if the canal paths aren't too rough.

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I've not tried tubeless; where practicable that probably is the way to go.

 

I've tried slime, complete pain. It didn't stop a puncture, and a mess over the inner tube (practically unrepairable) and the inside of the outer. Other people have reported good success with it; my experience was some years ago, so maybe they have better slime these days?

 

Marathon Plus have been brilliant for me over many years; but the ride is not the smoothest and very poor sideways grip, eg in thin mud.

 

I think the higher the pressure of the inner tube or tubeless tyre the less likely it will seal so probably makes more sense for fat bikes that run tyres at low pressure than road bikes with very high pressure tyres it will of course depend on the size of the puncture too.

 

I sort of wonder if its just worth taking sealant in case you get a puncture and then using it then to seal after the puncture rather than to preload the tube with sealant. I realise for tubeless you have to apply it beforehand as it needs to be there to seal but for tubes I sort of wonder if you couldn't do it after the event. Also why not just use downhill inner tubes, they are thicker and more resistant to punctures and combine them with thicker more puncture proof tyres you wonder if the weight difference between sealant wouldn't be that different especially if you regularly top up sealant.

 

I've had no luck with sealant but I'm a very heavy rider and have to run tyres/tubes at higher pressure than normal.

 

it will seal and you try get the fkn thing off and back on pita!

.......... "How to repair a puncture" videos I guess and be prepared.

As suggested in this post there are a number of ways to mitigate the chances of getting a flat (some better than others), but I would highly recommend that you do as you yourself suggest, and that is to get back to basics and learn how to mend a puncture the 'old fashioned' way, ie. taking the tyre off,* looking for the item that cuased the puncture, (or at least to ensure it's still not in the tyre), replace with a new tube ('cos you are carrying at least one spare tube aren't you?) and fixing the punctured tube with proper glue and patches.

 

Either that have a friend's phone number on speed dial and hope you can get your bike into the back of their car.

 

* there are tools you can carry with you to help you remove/replace tight tyres (especially those Marathon Plus).

the only way i can get my tyres on the rims on my own is with cable ties there that tight plus there glued on as well with sealant but they have been bullet proof in all the years i have used them.

 

but there double the waight to other tyres and a pita to fit.

Cycling UK review some of the tyre seating tools in this link HERE.

 

And as general read on fitting tight tyres, Spa Cycles posted a YT clip

on getting the Marathon Plus on by hand.

its just not fitting it, it is blasting the tyre on to the rim m8 had a sg hans tyre and it would not seat on the rim as so tight so 240 psi air blast pump time and still not moving so fairy liquid time and after a few goes it started moving.

 

it went on the rim went fkn kaboom and spat the fairy liquid right in my m8s eye lmfao.

I tried to try slime tubes: bought two and very rapidly managed to rupture both attempting fitting within minutes, it was quite a quick loss of money in a short space of time - I think those tubes were very old and therefore extremely delicate, because I bought them from my local bike shop crook, who doesn't get much business because everyone buys products cheaper online, which is what I should have done instead of trying to support a local struggling business. Slime ended up everywhere and didn't seem too sel-reapir holes. Bin jobs. It was also concerning that Slime have a warning on their website somewhere that it damages wheel metal over time - I washed it off best I could, and have bought new wheels since. Never again! Slime begone!

What's the problem? Tyre flat at the bottom? The rest is fine, just turn the wheel round a bit. And beware of forks in the road.

 

Anyway, got marathon plus on bike but have used slime in the trailer wheels, no problems yet.

So far my tyres mostly go on and off without even the need for tyre levers, but I usually carry a couple of substantial tea spoons just in case.

So far my tyres mostly go on and off without even the need for tyre levers, but I usually carry a couple of substantial tea spoons just in case.

I've just got a Rehook Tyreglide tool, tried it for the first time in the dark the other evening, I'd nipped the inner tube hopping a kerb. It worked a treat , really fast, both removing and fitting.

 

https://rehook.bike/products/rehook-tyre-glider-no-more-tyre-levers

Slime whether you put it in the tyre yourself or buy one pre-slimed causes problems by gumming up the valve . I now carry a 75cc aerosol containing foam to inject into the Inner Tube and a battery powered pump on all my rides . I have had 2 punctures recently and fixed them successfully to get home . Who wants to mend a puncture at the side of the road ? The last time was in the rain .

I’ve slimed my tubes and, touch wood, not had any issues. My tyres are Kenda and reinforced across the main tread. Friend tried pre-slimed tyres and they were nothing but trouble.

I'll chime in with support for Slime. I had numerous punctures, probably due to living on a busy road so the first/last mile or so is littered with stuff to ruin your day. But since buying slime tubes not had any issues. I have experienced issues with the slime clogging valves though and have found leaving the valve near the top (Ten to / Ten past the hour) for a while before checking pressures seems to resolve the issue. I have also pulled a small few nails and other bits of debris from my tyres but pressures have remained stable after re pressurising. I have not tried the slime additive so have no idea how it compares.

 

I've just won a very cheap fat tyred Cyrusher E-Bike on Ebay not found slimed tubes at 4" yet so may try sliming the tubes. I'll report back if it all goes tits up.

 

TTFN

John.

Perhaps this has the answer, though the ride may be harsher than Marathon Plus

Foldable Ultra Lightweight Carbon Portable Folding 20in Six Speed Tandem Bicycle | eBay

From the specs:

Tire

carbon steel