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Rockshock reverb seatpost

Featured Replies

I have just seen this on offer for £175 which seems a good deal.

Question...

Are they easy to fit with internal cabling? There are different purchase options so which one do I need?

A simple things now looks a bit complex than first thought ...

  • Author
it should fit if you want the stealth but will need to remove the motor to fit it like on edd bikes.

Big job then..

  • Author

Will have a look and see if there is anywhere to thread it through, but I dint want to do any serious dismantling. I was hoping it would just thread through...

At LBS its a lot of cash fitted..

  • Author
the 1 i have will cost less and be simple to fit if wanting to diy.

 

not look as nice tho but simple to do :)

I like.. looks nice better than diy..

As SW has said, it doesn't take that many minutes to remove the motor if fitting the Stealth version.

Both of my bikes had holes already in the base of the seat post/bottom bracket area, so I was able to run the hose straight through this, then just used the existing holes where the cables run. No drilling, and no hassle.

 

http://s32.postimg.org/udbbtmb5x/DSCF3698.jpg

 

Both of mine were the 2015 version which were bought at discounted price, and both have a right hand remote that is fitted upside down to the left side of the bars. It keeps the installation much neater and tidier.

 

http://s31.postimg.org/pgk7xzlpn/remote.jpg

 

Note that I said were fitted with the 2015 version. One of them only lasted about 30 miles before blowing an internal seal. It was replaced immediately under warranty for a 2016, but it was still hassle having to do the job twice.

On the plus side, the 2016 version does feel very refined.

 

You will need to know your seat post tube diameter and correct length before ordering.

 

No hose. :)

 

http://s32.postimg.org/x2dh5mznp/seat_1.jpg

Edited by EddiePJ

  • Author
As SW has said, it doesn't take that many minutes to remove the motor if fitting the Stealth version.

Both of my bikes had holes already in the base of the seat post/bottom bracket area, so I was able to run the hose straight through this, then just used the existing holes where the cables run. No drilling, and no hassle.

 

Both of mine were the 2015 version which were bought at discounted price, and both have a right hand remote that is fitted upside down to the left side of the bars. It keeps the installation much neater and tidier.

 

http://s31.postimg.org/pgk7xzlpn/remote.jpg

 

Note that I said were fitted with the 2015 version. One of them only lasted about 30 miles before blowing an internal seal. It was replaced immediately under warranty for a 2016, but it was still hassle having to do the job twice.

On the plus side, the 2016 version does feel very refined.

 

You will need to know your seat post tube diameter and correct length before ordering.

That explains all the different options.. and I am guessing the 45% off is probably a 2015 unit.

I am due a service cum tighten up so will see what they say...

When it stops raining that is

£175.00 is still a very good price for a 2015 version, provided that it is the stealth version. You won't see a certain ebike shop selling them at that price! :D

 

Here is some info about the 2016 version http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/news/article/rockshox-reverb-and-reverb-stealth-dropper-posts-2016-17-46638/

 

Irrelevant of make, a dropper post has to rate as the best possible mod that you can make. I'd now hate to be without mine. :)

 

 

A quick guide showing fitting info.

 

Edited by EddiePJ

  • Author
you cant see the cable/hose ;)

I have been wondering for a while and was hoping it would become apparent without having to ask [emoji41]

I think you may have an appropriate cable exit hole in the lower section of the seatpost tube Phil, and the Scott motor covers have a "spare" 3rd hole to run it through....If I remember correctly that is..is it the Genius 920 you have?

As SW has said, you can't see the hose or cable depending upon make.

 

Stealth has the advantage of one less external cable/hose to snag, and looks neater if that that is an issue.

 

Downside though, comes if the unit has to be repaired/serviced. SW's external routing wins hands down in that respect.

 

Some dropper posts are also cable operated, which supposedly has the disadvantage of requiring periodic maintenance, but whether that is true or not I have no idea, but suspect that it probably makes very little difference. Cable operated systems, are I think generally cheaper.

 

If you do take the stealth option, remember to fit a rubber grommet to the hole that the hose passes through.

 

http://s31.postimg.org/ogearowej/hose_1_Copy.jpg

Edited by EddiePJ

  • Author
I think you may have an appropriate cable exit hole in the lower section of the seatpost tube Phil, and the Scott motor covers have a "spare" 3rd hole to run it through....If I remember correctly that is..is it the Genius 920 you have?

Yes that's right. Putting the car away shortly so will have a look..

upload_2016-6-13_22-1-32.thumb.png.33428ad933f3c4e19b4832d9a7b2caca.png

See the black sticky out bit on the back of the seatube just above the motor...i'm sure it's a removable plug in the frame- which means you can fit a stealth dropper without dropping the motor out.

Edited by martin@onbike

But if it exits there and not at the headstock area, then the advantage of hidden hose routing is lost, and Phill might as well just fit the cheaper non stealth version.
  • Author

There is a grommet in the seat post tube and also a double one at each side of the head stock area. Both are in use on the left but only one in use on the right on the right. I teased the rubber back and there's a hole there thats not being used.

My obvious question would be.. How the heck do you thread something from one to the other?

There are several ways.

 

The kit comes with a barb connector, so you can just push a short length of hydraulic hose from the easiest direction, connect the barb, and pull back through.

 

http://s31.postimg.org/z8pnbzsuz/519d_XVUw_Ho_L_SL1200.jpg

 

You could use an electricians cable routing rod.

 

A length of wire threaded through, and just tape the hose to it.

 

Attach the hose and a piece of wire, to the existing Bosch wiring and pull it back through, which would leave the hose and wire pulled through, you can then attach the Bosch cable to the piece of wire, and just pull it back down again. It sounds more complicated that it actually is.

  • Author
Just watched a YouTube video. It was a normal bike where they went through the bb which we can't do of course.. but yes I see how it is done. Ours must come out to bypass the motor and back in and up the seat tube

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