Replacement LY48v1000w controller choice

Hello Folks,

 

Hope this post find you well.

Currently running for the past year or so an E-bike kit with 1000W rear hub drive motor . Recently have experienced the bike cutting out under load , replaced battery and fault was still remains the same.

Purchased one of the basic £8 Chinese diagnostic boxes which has suggested my controller is not working as it should.

I don't run a display currently , just used in conjunction with a twist throttle which has some LED lights for the battery level.

I'm a bit lost as to which replacement controller to purchase and I was hoping someone could kindly point me to one that would be reliable please ? Have included some photos showing connections and battery etc.

 

All the best , Skok

 

 

the label on the controller box will shed more light and define replacement parameters.

 

However 99ah from 3 sets of 13 cells smells a bit off to me? and afaik samsung make the cells and dont package them further as a rule for consumer access at least??

 

what exactly doe the tester show?

 

edit, very dodgy battery label.. i fear you have replaced a dud battery with a dud.

 

 

"The EU is responsible for: like sun Gmbh"

 

WTF?

Edited October 24, 20232 yr by thelarkbox

Typical type of crappy battery we see on illegal motorbike builds, 9.9ah at the most and cells that will sag and be useless.

That battery cannot give the current that your controller needs. It's a 10Ah 13S 3P one, probably capable of about 15A max. You need to get a proper battery capable of giving at least 1000w, which is 25 amps. You can get one from Greenlance for not too much money:

https://greenlance.co.uk/collections/samsung-electric-bike-batteries-greenalance

not exactly a pedelec either if just throttle control, so not within the scope of this site really try https://endless-sphere.com/

for views and info not in conflict with uk regs..

That battery cannot give the current that your controller needs. It's a 10Ah 13S 3P one, probably capable of about 15A max. You need to get a proper battery capable of giving at least 1000w, which is 25 amps. You can get one from Greenlance for not too much money:

https://greenlance.co.uk/collections/samsung-electric-bike-batteries-greenalance

 

Hi , thanks for the reply. Bike has been working for last year with same spec battery no problems whatsoever.

 

Battery brand: avtrak

Battery model: 48V 99999mah

Battery: Use Samsung battery

Rated power: 99999mAh

Rated voltage: 48V

Battery combination: 3 in parallel and 13 in series

Battery size: 235*68*65mm

Number of batteries: 1

Maximum instantaneous discharge current: 30A

Maximum DC discharge current: 15A

Standard load current: 2A

Standard charging current charging time: 4 hours

Maximum continuous load: 5A

Quick charge time: 4 hours

Battery weight: about 2kg

Packing list:

1.48V 99999mAh battery

2.54.6V 2A charger

 

It is the controller which is in question , as a fault diagnostic tool shows this to be the issue. Can you recommend a controller please ?

Hi , thanks for the reply. Bike has been working for last year with same spec battery no problems whatsoever.

 

Battery brand: avtrak

Battery model: 48V 99999mah

Battery: Use Samsung battery

Rated power: 99999mAh

Rated voltage: 48V

Battery combination: 3 in parallel and 13 in series

Battery size: 235*68*65mm

Number of batteries: 1

Maximum instantaneous discharge current: 30A

Maximum DC discharge current: 15A

Standard load current: 2A

Standard charging current charging time: 4 hours

Maximum continuous load: 5A

Quick charge time: 4 hours

Battery weight: about 2kg

Packing list:

1.48V 99999mAh battery

2.54.6V 2A charger

 

It is the controller which is in question , as a fault diagnostic tool shows this to be the issue. Can you recommend a controller please ?

That battery specification says that the battery can give maximum 5A continuous. You need one that can give 25A. What's the current written on your controller? I'm very surprised when you say that battery worked for a year, Normally, I wouldn't believe you. Assuming it did, it's knackered know.

 

The fault diagnosis tool doesn't show that the controller is faulty. It doesn't work like that. What test did you do that makes you think that?

...as a fault diagnostic tool...

The best fault diagnostic tool you have available to you right now is [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] who's been building, diagnosing, and repairing e-bikes since dinosaurs roamed the earth (almost).

 

There's so much wrong with the stated specification of that battery - apart from the spelling (eg. "capcity") - that I too can smell the bull from here. Standard charge time 4hrs with a 2A charger = 8Ah at best... yet it claims a capacity of 99.9Ah, which as already pointed out is absurd. It'd be interesting to open that and discover what the cells/capacity really is.

my understanding of the testers [mention=40897]Electrik Skok[/mention] is using requires the tester to replace the motor in order to test the controller, so battery issues unless the battery is completely fried are unlikely to be revealed as the tester box can hardly draw a significant load?

 

If it needs replacing the KT controllers are generally recommended for having an open configurable system and wide selection of compatible headsets, tho can be run as yours with a simple bridge between red and blue wires on the controller interface plug/socket (double check before implementing tho..)

 

beyond that match the parameters on your controllers label for voltage max amps etc

The 99999mah rating the chinese give is false and mis leading , so will any of the other info be doubtful. If one knew mauch about battery capacities and cells used, one would realise the rating is false/fake.

Typically for a Samsung cell or any other 18650 cell in that format 3500mah is the max rating that can be got get from the format size, so at most your battery can only be 10.5ah/10,500mah.

The 99999mah rating is in fact 9.9ah/9,900 mah, it is also likely that the cells used are 2900 mah cells like the Samsung 29E.

Packs like that are known for using poor quality cells and even fake unbranded ones dressed up to look like branded ones.

The Op shows the replacement battery but not the one that originally was used and it's spec, I doubt that the two are any where near the same.

Bike has been working for last year with same spec battery no problems whatsoever.

 

Yet.

 

Can you say where you live, so those nearby can keep an eye on their local news ?

However 99ah from 3 sets of 13 cells smells a bit off to me?

 

Very very obviously.

 

I think what these lunny battery makers might do is add up the mAhr of each individual battery and present that as the 'capacity'

 

So 99,999 mAhr / (13x3) = 2.56Ahr, so maybe. And maybe the dubious lable generator had a limit of 5 digits.

 

Why anyone would trust batteries labelled like this is beyond my understanding. Straight down the tip\recycling perhaps, but I would worry just putting one in my car to get rid of it.

The Op shows the replacement battery but not the one that originally was used and it's spec, I doubt that the two are any where near the same.

 

This is the original battery I had , this lasted a full year before packing without any issues. I was riding on average a couple of times per week. I must stress that the bike was only ridden in a moderate fashion , I suffer health difficulties.

That battery cannot give the current that your controller needs. It's a 10Ah 13S 3P one, probably capable of about 15A max. You need to get a proper battery capable of giving at least 1000w, which is 25 amps. You can get one from Greenlance for not too much money:

https://greenlance.co.uk/collections/samsung-electric-bike-batteries-greenalance

Thank you for your suggestion , I had a look on the site you kindly linked regarding the battery . It appears the largest size available on there is 20 amps ? being less than the 25 amps you stated as required?

Thank you for your suggestion , I had a look on the site you kindly linked regarding the battery . It appears the largest size available on there is 20 amps ? being less than the 25 amps you stated as required?

You're misunderstanding something. Look at the specifications. They can all give a constant 30 amps.

 

You didn't answer my two questions above, which were intended to help you and get you to a satisfactory solution quickly.

You're misunderstanding something. Look at the specifications. They can all give a constant 30 amps.

 

You didn't answer my two questions above, which were intended to help you and get you to a satisfactory solution quickly.

 

Hi,

 

I used an Ebike tester to test the existing controller per the attached article

https://www.heybike.com/blogs/heybike-blog/how-to-test-ebike-controller

Unfortunately the existing controller has no label attached and simply has printed on it

LY48v1000w

You're misunderstanding something. Look at the specifications. They can all give a constant 30 amps.

 

You didn't answer my two questions above, which were intended to help you and get you to a satisfactory solution quickly.

OK thank you for the clarification , which of the batteries would you recommend from the site? there is quite a variance in price between them

Hi,

 

I used an Ebike tester to test the existing controller per the attached article

https://www.heybike.com/blogs/heybike-blog/how-to-test-ebike-controller

Unfortunately the existing controller has no label attached and simply has printed on it

LY48v1000w

I know which tester you used, but what output from it makes you think something is wrong with the controller?

I know which tester you used, but what output from it makes you think something is wrong with the controller?

Hi, the sequence of the lights displayed during testing were not in accordance with the testers enclosed instructions (which were somewhat difficult to understand as written in 'Chinglish'

Hi, the sequence of the lights displayed during testing were not in accordance with the testers enclosed instructions (which were somewhat difficult to understand as written in 'Chinglish'

When you ask some controllers to give power to the motor, they send a sequence of pulses and look for feedback. If they don't get the right feedback, they try a different sequence. Different controllers do it in different ways. That test is pretty well meaningless.

 

If your battery is just worn out, I'd expect it to drive the motor with the wheel off the ground, and when you ride the bike, it would cut when you demand a certain amount of power. The same would happen with an under-rated battery.

 

Your description of your symptoms is unclear. The first bit makes sense: Your first battery lasted a year, which sounds about right for a crappy over-stressed battery. Then, you said you bought that 99999million AH one that immediately didn't work, so you got the tester. That makes sense too, since you bought a battery that can only deliver 5A continuous for your probable 25A controller. After that, you said that the 5A battery had worked for a year. That doesn't add up with the previous statements, and doesn't sound possible considering its rating.

 

AFAICS, all the Greenlance batteries would be suitable. The more Ah you get, the further you can go and the more power you can use while doing it. As i said before, the minimum requirement is that the battery should be able to deliver 25A continuous. 30A would be better, as the battery will be less stressed, so will last longer. You check the specification to see what is the maximum continuous current that the battery can deliver. It must be the maximum CONTINUOUS current, not the maximum current.

When you ask some controllers to give power to the motor, they send a sequence of pulses and look for feedback. If they don't get the right feedback, they try a different sequence. Different controllers do it in different ways. That test is pretty well meaningless.

 

If your battery is just worn out, I'd expect it to drive the motor with the wheel off the ground, and when you ride the bike, it would cut when you demand a certain amount of power. The same would happen with an under-rated battery.

 

Your description of your symptoms is unclear. The first bit makes sense: Your first battery lasted a year, which sounds about right for a crappy over-stressed battery. Then, you said you bought that 99999million AH one that immediately didn't work, so you got the tester. That makes sense too, since you bought a battery that can only deliver 5A continuous for your probable 25A controller. After that, you said that the 5A battery had worked for a year. That doesn't add up with the previous statements, and doesn't sound possible considering its rating.

 

AFAICS, all the Greenlance batteries would be suitable. The more Ah you get, the further you can go and the more power you can use while doing it. As i said before, the minimum requirement is that the battery should be able to deliver 25A continuous. 30A would be better, as the battery will be less stressed, so will last longer. You check the specification to see what is the maximum continuous current that the battery can deliver. It must be the maximum CONTINUOUS current, not the maximum current.

 

This OLPAY is my old battery , it lasted just over 1 year and still provides a range of approx 7 miles of moderate riding before it 'gives up'

 

 

The Samsung branded battery is the new battery , this provides approx 5 miles of moderate riding before it 'gives up'

 

 

 

From what you have said it would appear the battery is the issue rather than the controller ?

That being the case which battery specifically from the website you previously quoted would you recommend ? intended range approx. 20 miles of moderate riding

From what you have said it would appear the battery is the issue rather than the controller ?

That being the case which battery specifically from the website you previously quoted would you recommend ? intended range approx. 20 miles of moderate riding

The more AH you get, the better, but that costs more. I reckon that your first battery was 10Ah, so whatever miles you got from it when new, call it M. Divide 20 miles by M and multiply by 10Ah, so if you got 15 miles from it 20/15x10 = 13.3333, say 14Ah, but that's the minimum, and it'll reduce as the battery wears, so 17Ah would be more appropriate. With the 20Ah one, you'd be able to go much faster without worrying.

The more AH you get, the better, but that costs more. I reckon that your first battery was 10Ah, so whatever miles you got from it when new, call it M. Divide 20 miles by M and multiply by 10Ah, so if you got 15 miles from it 20/15x10 = 13.3333, say 14Ah, but that's the minimum, and it'll reduce as the battery wears, so 17Ah would be more appropriate. With the 20Ah one, you'd be able to go much faster without worrying.

sounds like this one is the one to get then ? are these batteries reliable in your experience and contain genuine samsung cells ? https://greenlance.co.uk/collections/samsung-electric-bike-batteries-greenalance/products/electric-bike-battery-48v-20ah-samsung-cells-21700-premium-quality?variant=43974839927013

sounds like this one is the one to get then ? are these batteries reliable in your experience and contain genuine samsung cells ? https://greenlance.co.uk/collections/samsung-electric-bike-batteries-greenalance/products/electric-bike-battery-48v-20ah-samsung-cells-21700-premium-quality?variant=43974839927013

I have two from them, which so far do what they're supposed to. It's a proper UK supplier. The guys there were very helpful when I made a mistake in my first order. The delivey is next day unless you order at a weekend. I can't find any negative commenys using a Google search. there's one one-star rating on Amazon, but no comment to go with it, though you have to understand that a lot of guys that buy this stuff don't know about it, so make mistakes in ordering and use. Other Amazon reviews are all good. That's all I know.

 

Don't forget that you can get an additional 10% discount if you use their AUTUMN10 or SUMMER10 discount code, then send me half of it for telling you that. I'll settle for a tenner.