Help! Replaced the controller and now the hub motor is making an odd noise

[matze]

Before using the hall sensors, you have to do two things: 1. Test that they work; 2. Redo the self learning procedure.

Thanks. I tested each sensor by using controller 5 V and GRND. I tested blk-yl blk-bl and blk-gr -> result: only green changes to 0 V at one position, other two stay at 5 V any position.

I changed (controller/motor) green/green blue/blue to green/blue blue/green and tested again. Still only the green one working.

I mentioned hall wires were cut when old qwic controller was used. I bought it (display, controller, motor, all together) as used part.

I start thinking former owner got problems and just cut hall wires having luck it still runned smoothly?

Or may phase-wires of brainpower controller be wrongly connected by myself? I connected color to color. I know, sometimes colors do not match but it was working at first try in my opinion.

Should I change phase wires to get smooth run again using brainpower controller without hall sensors connected like the qwic controller did before? Can I damage sth. when changing phase wires?

Thanks a lot

 

[vfr400]

The controller has self-learning. It makes no difference how you do the connections. The self-learning will figure it all out during the self-learning procedure as long as you do it.

 

[matze]

The controller has self-learning. It makes no difference how you do the connections. The self-learning will figure it all out during the self-learning procedure as long as you do it.

Thanks again . What else can I try to solve it? Self-learning I did several times. It turns either right or wrong direction. I also tried to set parameters in display like magnets and so on but no change to the noise and torque loss problem.

It seems I have to try getting a original controller or any other, but which one? In German forum they say sth. about KT controllers.?

 

[vfr400]

Thanks again . What else can I try to solve it? Self-learning I did several times. It turns either right or wrong direction. I also tried to set parameters in display like magnets and so on but no change to the noise and torque loss problem.

It seems I have to try getting a original controller or any other, but which one? In German forum they say sth. about KT controllers.?

Some controllers and some motors work better sensorless than others. The KU63 and KU65 from BMSBattery were always very good, and BMSBattery also sell this one specially for sensorless motors but I haven't tried it.

EBike Parts - bicycle tools - PAS, battery case - Anderson connector

EBike parts category includes battery case, PAS, cassettes freewheel, battery/charger connector, hear shrink tube, EBike twist/thumb throttle, speed sensor, disc brake, LCD/LED display/panel, spokes, rim and bicycle tools.

bmsbattery.com

The KU63 and 65 were good in their day, but they have limited functions regarding pedal assist. They're good for testing, and good if you're happy with three levels of assist and speed control.

 

[J-ron]

I had the same problem when I replaced the originall BH bikes controller, display, sensors, etc...
I used KT parts ( controller, pedal sensor, display, 9 pin motor cable ) to do the transition, because the rear torque sensor was faulty. The cost of these parts were less then the original torque sensor.
After installation: the rear Hub motor was making a grinding noise and lacking power. It was a very simple solution: one of the power supply cables had a poor or insufficient contact and could not deliver enough amps to power the controller and motor. One cable was not tight enough in the XT60 connector. I made a direct connection, without connectors.
So fiirst check the power cons - a grinding noise is lack of power to the motor.