Removing Crank for Pedelec Installation

Filipo

Just Joined
Sep 8, 2007
1
0
I am not much of a bike mechanic, and I need to remove the non-sprocket side pedal crank of my bike so I can install the pedal assist ring and magnet. Mine is an American Marin Trail mountain bike with what appears to be a 3-piece crank. I was able to remove the center bolt and washer but the crank refuses to budge from the squarish bottom bracket spindle. I've hit it with a rubber mallet and it cannot be dislodged. I don't see any other screw or cotter pin holding it, so it must just be tightly fitted. Do I need a special puller tool to do this or can I just force the crank off the spindle with some real hammering? Thanks for any help.
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,392
30,734
Yes, don't damage it with hammering, you need a crank extractor, from any good bike shop. Use this link and scroll down to the third picture and it's text to know what one looks like, and how to use it.

Crank Extractor

The last bit of the text doesn't apply of course.
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ITSPETEINIT

Esteemed Pedelecer
Dec 11, 2006
492
0
Mere, Wilts
Crank Extractor extraordinaire

Yes, don't damage it with hammering, you need a crank extractor, from any good bike shop. Use this link and scroll down to the third picture and it's text to know what one looks like, and how to use it.

Crank Extractor

The last bit of the text doesn't apply of course.
.
Hello Philipo:
There is no way you can remove a 'well-fitted' crank from its spindle without a crank extractor - about £5 on the internet plus that unbelievable postage.
Local Bike shop would be cheaper possibly. Don't accept their offer to do it - it will cost as much and you will have no residual tool to use next time.
When you use the tool, screwing it into the crank, take care not to damage the aluminium thread. AND be certain to REMOVE THE CRANK BOLT FROM INSIDE THE CRANK with a suitable thin cased socket. before screwing in the extractor tool.
THERE IS another way - but care is needed. DO NOT TRY TO AIM HAMMER BLOWS TO THE BACK OF THE CRANK.
Better still find a hardwood wedge, long enough to allow you to hit it with a hammer without getting near the cycle frame: better still, two the same, one on each side of the bottom bracket axle. The taper of the wedge needs to be a rather fine angle. They don't need to be driven far, just enough to 'break' the hold of the axle's taper.
Of course, replacing the crank after doing what you set out to do is accomplished by drawing up the crank/axle bolt to the right Torque (or thereabouts).
Best of luck either way
Peter