Put The axle/torque arm in a vice, then connect it to a controller. Do not attempt to fire it up while holding the axle, even with a spanner or mole grips. The torque reaction will jump it out and twist the cable.
If the axle is steady and the magnets don't touch the stator, it should be OK, otherwise put the side back on.
There won't be anything wrong with the motor. It looks like it doesn't even have hall sensors, which are just about the only things that ever fail. How many pins are there in the connector?
11 pins altogether? Are you sure? They're normally 9 or less.
Any electric bike will get you to work and back, and you can forget about 85nm torque. 30 should be enough; however, nobody knows what it means. The numbers are made up and have no basis and can't be compared. Nobody even knows where it's supposed to be measured. If you're less than 90kg, 36v should be enough, and if you're more than 100kg, you really need 48v. Without knowing anything about you or your rides, it's not really possible to say much more than that. As an ebiker of 14 years, I have a pretty good idea of how much power you need for any particular set of circumstances.
I wouldn't consider any of those for riding to work. I'd choose something like this. You get another £50 off with a coupon, which should pay for you to get some decent mudguards and a round of drinks to celebrate with your mates:
eleglide.com
All those you mention have Bosch system which is a locked in one. Think Apple. You can only get repairs/service done at the place you bought it from. If anything goes wrong with the motor the 'service agent' can only take it out and send it back to Germany, leaving you without a bike for the duration. Out of guarentee, batteries and motors are highly overpriced, as is the bike in the first instance.
