Question re batteries and controlers (Cyclotricity)

crispyw

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 3, 2014
6
5
57
Just a question for someone who might have a greater brain than me. I’m now on my second e-bike in 6 years and I’m struggling to understand why the performance of my second, despite it being the same spec as my first, seems so much worse.

Both bikes are Cyclotricity revolver - the first was basically a mountain bike, bought in 2014, and the second is more of a hybrid. (In fact I posted an in depth review of my first e-bike here https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/complete-newbie-cyclotricity-revolver.17957/)

I only use the bike to commute to work – a total round trip of 13.5 km (or 8.5 miles), taking in 2 hills – the first one is a 20m rise over 1km and the second is a 50m rise over 1km. I weigh about 13.5 stone, and my levels of fitness did not change between bikes, I bought the second one as I’d worn the first one out – after 4 years, 2 chainsets and a new wheel etc, I decided to go for a new one on the cycle to work scheme rather than keep replacing parts, and was also aware that after 4 years, the battery would probably start to go.

Both bikes had front hub motor, 36v 9Ah batteries and identical LED controller – i.e. https://www.e-bikesdirect.co.uk/conversion-kits/pedal-assist/cyclotricity-pedal-assist-led-display-led-and-pedal-assist?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5cXattO65wIVx7TtCh1kBgbcEAQYASABEgK7zPD_BwE with 4 LED’s which show what I believed to be the power consumption/battery level.

My problem is this. On my old bike, I would set the PAS at the medium setting, and on a good day I could get to and from work with all 4 LED’s still lit, or 3 at a push. On the new bike (bought July 2018) by the time I get to work there are only 2 LED’s lit, and by the time I get home there is only one. Nothing has changed - the same person, the same route, etc

I have contacted Cyclotricity, and they say that the function of the LED controller has changed, and it now shows battery load rather than charge. The problem is that when I get home with only one LED lit, when I press the battery indicator on the battery itself, it shows as 50% charged (2 out of 4 lights lit). But I also know that after the controller goes to 1 LED, the power to the battery will be cut entirely - this made it difficult to condition the battery as I could never actually run it down fully as told by the instructions – it would cut out, but the battery would still show at 50% when I pressed the indicator.

I moaned to Cyclotricity and they kindly replaced my battery after 18 months and I have been using it for a week now, but the behaviour is still the same – down to 1 LED on my return home. So no change.

So the question is – given the distance and the two hills I have to climb (the second one is very steep indeed), should the bike be able to cope or am I driving it too hard? The old one coped very well for 4 years, I’m no heavier, and no less fit.

But it’s putting me off cycling to work as there seems to be little power left at the end of my ride and I’m worried that over time the battery will just cut out before I get home. Was I just lucky with my first bike?
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
21,027
8,597
61
West Sx RH
Without knowing the battery cell specs or the controller used on both bikes it will be hard to find a reason, also maybe the wheel winding/rpm isn't the same.
Although the capacity spec is the same, it is possible that different cells are used which can lead to different performance or the controllers might be configured software wise differently.
The led display on the handle bar shouldn't be called a controller as it adds confusion, it is just simply a display.
 

crispyw

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 3, 2014
6
5
57
Thanks Nealh - My admittedly ignorant take is that the front wheel hub motor is the same design and spec, the battery is the same voltage and ampage and the front wheel is the same size, and is pulling the same weight, so I would expect it to behave pretty much the same. So is that assumption wrong?

I'm beginning to think that I might have just got lucky with my first bike. Forgive the ignorance, but what do you mean by wheel winding/rpm? (well, I know what rpm is, but wheel winding?) The first thing I noticed about the new bike was that it was just generally harder to ride, which I put down to the gears. So if I'm putting in more effort pedalling for less efficiency, this could affect the battery load?
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
21,027
8,597
61
West Sx RH
The windings/copper will have a KV value this in part will help to decide the final motor rpm.
Although the battery, motor and controller may be the same unless a direct comparison of them are made from their spec's, you won't know for sure where the difference will lay. Like for like you would expect the same performance.