Q100CST Problem

[jhruk]

I recently purchased a Q100CST - 328rpm for use in a 20” wheel. I was intending to use it with a S06S controller but they didn't seem compatible so I settled on a KU65, as I had a spare, and on the bench it all seemed to work well.

I finally got round to lacing the wheel and fitting everything to the bike. All went well and on the stand it worked perfectly, so time for a test ride. As soon as I set off I could tell there was something wrong, which felt and sounded like a slipping clutch in the motor. It would just about hold a constant speed but would slip under acceleration. Rather demoralised I left it until my enthusiasm returned.

Yesterday I dismantled the motor to see what was going on inside. The gear wheels looked fine so I dismantled the clutch, cleaned it, re-greased it and refitted it. I then re-assembled everything hoping this may have fixed it, but of course it hadn't. I then dismantled everything again to see if I had missed something but there was still no obvious problem. Tried less grease, more grease, but, if anything, it only got worse – I could hold the wheel stationery against the clutch. The last time I was putting it back together one of the clutch springs sprang across the garage, so far never to be seen again – time for a break.

I should add that this was a 36v motor with a 36v battery and a standard 14amp ku65.

I can only conclude that there must be a manufacturing or design fault with the clutch so, before I pursue this, or buy another motor, I was just wondering if anyone else had experienced similar problems with this particular motor, or had any suggestions.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If only you had asked here first. It could have saved you a lot of trouble. The graunching feels like a mechanical problem but is actually electrical. You have a connection fault somewhere on the motor wires - usually the barrel/bullet connectors at the controller. The bullet can be in, but not making good enough contact.

 

[jhruk]

If only it was – that would be easy to fix. As I stated I can hold the wheel stationary while the motor continues to run quite smoothly, so something is slipping in the motor.

 

[amigafan2003]

I agree with d8veh - you've got an incorrect combination of phase/hall wires or one of them not connected.

Did you just connected yellow > yellow, blue > blue and so on? If so, very rarely do they match up. The only time I've had it so that works is when I ordered a motor and controller from EM3EV at the same time.

Have aread of the following article:-

http://www.endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/Determining_the_Wiring_for_a_Brushless_Motor

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The KU series controllers from BMSB have automatic phase angle and hall sequence recognition, but S series don't. When your controller loses sync, it feels like gears jumping or clutch slipping.

 

[jhruk]

I agree with d8veh - you've got an incorrect combination of phase/hall wires or one of them not connected.

Did you just connected yellow > yellow, blue > blue and so on? If so, very rarely do they match up. The only time I've had it so that works is when I ordered a motor and controller from EM3EV at the same time.

Have aread of the following article:-

http://www.endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/Determining_the_Wiring_for_a_Brushless_Motor

Thanks, I'm aware of that, I've sorted a few phase/halls over the years.

When I got the motor I was a little suspicious as the rpm marking had been rubbed out, so to make sure it was a 328, and not a 201, I bench tested it before making up the wheel.

I first tried it with an S06S, which worked ok up to about half speed but seemed to lose sync at higher speeds – I think someone else had this problem with this motor. I also tried it with a an S12S, a KU63 and a KU65, all of which worked fine. Of course these tests were with the bare motor, so no load.

 

[jhruk]

The KU series controllers from BMSB have automatic phase angle and hall sequence recognition, but S series don't. When your controller loses sync, it feels like gears jumping or clutch slipping.

Not sure what you're saying here - I'm using a KU65 not an S series, but see answer above.

If I can find the missing clutch spring I'll try it with the S12S under load, just to see if it's the same. It worked ok with no load, but then so did the KU65