Powered axle too tight a fit

[John Galvin]

Hi

I've just tried to put my new hub powered front wheel into the axle slot on my Tern Link P9 and discovered that it won't fit.
It goes in a few mm but then the lugs seem to narrow and it won't go any farther. I seem to remember this is a common problem (with American bikes??).
What's the best way to proceed - can it be 'persuaded'? Angle grinder/dremel/file?

TIA

 

[trex]

I'd use a file.

 

[flecc]

Yes, file. Bike spindles are normally 10mm, but many hub motors use 12 mm spindles.

 

[jackhandy]

I'd use a file.

Me too, but only take out the bare minimum for a hinterference fit & be sure to keep the sides parallel & square.

 

[John Galvin]

Thanks.
What's the best type of file to use? Anything else to look out for?

 

[trex]

you'll need a small round file and a small half round, tungsten carbide grit files will do nicely but even woodworking files will do.
something like this:

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You need to widen, deepen and re-profile the drop-outs. At the moment, they'll be about 9.5mm for a 9mm axle. The motor axle is 10mm accross the flats. The best tool to use is a Dremmel and these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-Tungsten-6mm-Head-Carbide-Burrs-For-Rotary-Drill-Die-Grinder-Carving-Bit-/201008864655?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item2ecd0fdd8f

 

[Alan Quay]

If it's steel or alluminium alloy, then a round and a flat bastard file will do the job just fine. Available from nearly anywhere.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Has anyone ever done it with a file? It takes long enough with a Dremmel.

 

[Alan Quay]

Yup, I've done fronts and rears , both steel and ally, all with files. Really does not take long.
I can do both sides in about 5-10 mins

 

[flecc]

I've done it with files too, only on alloy frames though.

 

[John Galvin]

Well so far, it's going well. I have most of the filing done, only the last little bit to go.
I used a car jack to spread the forks about 10mm and the wheel will fit well.

Looking at the attached photo, you can see lugs which obviously fit into the dropouts. My question is, should the lugs go into the 'C' of the dropouts or should the axle go into the 'C' first with the lugs between the open ends of the dropouts or does it matter?

TIA

 

[trex]

usually the anti-torque washers go inside the dropout, with the lugs in the opening of the C and the cable going downward not to pull the water inside the axle. As you have had to spread the forks, in this case, it may be easier if these fat washers go outside to avoid more spreading.

 

[John Galvin]

They look like they'll go inside pretty neatly and there's not a lot of clearance between the hub motor and the bolt for the mudguard. I might take a hacksaw to that later in the project, but I'll be putting a torque arm on that lug too, so that might take care of the excess length.

Thanks

 

[Cyclezee]

Personally I wouldn't use a power tool for this sort of work and I spent 40 years using handheld rotary power tools to grind and drill a whole range of materials, acrylic, PVA, polycarbonate, ceramics, gold, German silver, stainless steel, cobalt chromium, titanium, etc., etc.

Hand files as suggested by Trex are the best tools for the job and don't rush it.

 

[John Galvin]

Having tried it, I must agree. Five or ten minutes at most and not hard work. I just have the final slivers to take off and to finish grinding down the two little pimples below the lawyer's lips.
I think i can get C washers on the way back from Dublin tomorrow and after a lick of paint, I'll be able to finish the wheel mount.