Help! Pendleton Somerby Ebike - battery casing has disintergrated around the screws

[jemimanlh]

Hi everyone, hoping someone can help me out! I'm in Bromley, South London:

My situation:

I'm 31 with a muscle disease that prevents me from being able to walk very far, or lift too much, so I purchased an e-bike in 2021 from Halfords to help with minor journeys. The bike's battery case has fallen apart. I'm in major need of a micromobility solution and have been looking into mobility scooters but I am scared to take that step as "if you don't use it, you lose it". Any repair costs for the bike would be coming from my mobility scooter budget, which isn't huge.

I am looking for advice regarding:

• Whether my disappointing ride experience is due to bike malfunction, and could be improved, and so it is worth fixing the bike;
• Whether Halfords will provide an upgrade to the smart control system which might improve my ride experience (if they would even provide a fix to the battery casing in the first place?)
• If this can be fixed by myself, e.g., there's an alternative casing option out there that I just can't find, or maybe I should get a second hand somerby ebike and take the case from it?

The bike:
Pendleton Somerby Ebike, purchased 2021 from Halfords, had an extensive service in 2022 but only used it twice since that service until the last six weeks. It has been stored inside until recently, where I've been keeping it outside but under a bike cover to enable access for using it. In the last six weeks it's been used more, but only to cycle to my local station and home again, or to the local shop, so maybe 20 mins max each time it's used, and only two/three times a week.

The experience:
I'd call the ride experience of this bike "inconsistent":

• It sometimes feels as though something is dragging against the wheel when I ride the bike. I get off to check, there's nothing there, sometimes it goes away and rides perfectly, until ...
• the power cuts out when going over speed bumps (I live in an area with many speed bumps)
• there's been a couple of occasions where the LCD controller hasn't worked, so the power doesn't turn on at all. Fun!
• It usually feels tough to ride; I don't know whether this is because I have a muscle disease, so the fatigue of bike riding is immediate for me, or whether it's a bike issue. But even cycling to the Lidl's on the corner - which is maybe 2-3 mins ride - has my legs like jelly.
  • There's a possibility this could be addressed by upgrading the Smart Control System to a torque control (as per this thread), so I don't want to go to Halfords and get the case repaired if there's a possibility that someone can come out and repair the case / upgrade the controller at the same time. I doubt Halfords would upgrade the controller, and no one at Halfords will talk to me about the possibilities without first seeing the bike in person. They do not do house calls, which seems silly given the amount of disabled people who use bikes for mobility aids!

Storage:
It has always been stored inside, until very recently. I have not had access to a car, so dragged the bike out and kept it under a cover in the garden to enable access when I needed it. I do not believe this battery casing damage is from the last six weeks.

Battery casing damage:
This picture is the part of the battery case where the controller is kept. You can see the screw that is supposed to keep the whole case together - the plastic around that screw has come apart from the rest of the case. I have also attached a photo of the controller side. This video shows the other side of the case, where the battery slides into place, in which the plastic around the screws have also disintergrated.




Basically, I'm at a loss as to whether to write the bike off, or to put a bit of money into getting it useable again, and if I do that, how do I source someone / a company who can do the controller upgrade for me, as well?

 

[thelarkbox]

Speed bumps and some road conditions when you come across them at 15mph can be very shocking and could be the reason behind your battery case damage and the cut outs for sure.

the phantom rubbing and a short trip resulting in jelly legs however might be a different mechanical issue with the wheels and or bearings?? if upturning the bike to investigate and fix isnt feasible perhaps visit a bike repair shop and get them to check it out?

would 'ghost pedalling' the distance to lidl give you jelly legs too?? or is it the constant cut outs due to speed bumps thats giving your legs the unwanted extra work out??

A new controller upgrade could run foul of the same vibration/shock issues if ridden over the same speed bumps and roads, finding the connections that are loose and making them tight removing the shock based cut outs from your rides would be my #1 task..

the battery case should be fixed asap with epoxy and tape to stop further degradation and strain on connections.

If hitting the speed bumps at speed consider slowing down for them??

Afaik Pendleton Somerby are pretty well thought of bikes, but like anything the odd dodgy one can slip through QC

 

[Nealh]

From my point of view considering your mobility issues, the pendleton speed controller ( though very primitive basic ) should give you a pretty easy ride as it typically provides max power all the time until thr speed limit of each PAS level is reached.
The freewheel on that bike is known to cause issues with sticking so remove the chain and check the freewheel rotation, 3 in i oil drizzled down the rear of the freewheel has helped to keep it free.
With no chain fitted spin the rear wheel and see if it freely rotates without abruptly stopping, check for any tyre rub on the stays or brakes rubbing the rim. Check the rim isn't buckled or out of true more then 1mm.
Check there is no foulong of the tyre to mudguard gap along it's length.

An upgrade to KT controller that uses current control ( torque control in chinese) is a better upgrade as one can then add a thumb throttle to aid ones peddalling which I would definately fit consideing your mobility issue.

 

[thelarkbox]

The state of the battery case makes me wonder if the battery is loosing connection when bumped about, this may be evident if the battery connections show any spark or arcing damage?? and would result in post bump cut outs,

similar issues in the past have been resolved with shims and wedges to secure a slid battery in a single position.

 

[Nealh]

Powerloss if the display goes blank is simply a power supply issue.
Two places to look to start with regarding power and the bike running.
1. Front hub, check the motor cable connector join near the motor. Make sure the two parts are firmly pushed together, one part has a raised line across it and should be abutted tight to the opposing connector.
2. The bottom bracket has a simple cadence/rotation pedal assist (PAS), show us a pic of this installation.
There can be issues whether a one or two piece PAS set up is utilised and is generally a maintenance issue.

 

[Nealh]

Tbh it needs a competant diyer/experienced forum member to look at your bike and the same to carry out a control system conversion.
I carried out such an upgrade this spring to a very similar type bike and the transfomation was damn good.
Parts are approx £70 - £90.

 

[Nealh]

Being frank , Halfords or just any LBS isn't an ideal place to have work undertaken.

 

[Ghost1951]

From my point of view considering your mobility issues, the pendleton speed controller ( though very primitive basic ) should give you a pretty easy ride as it typically provides max power all the time until thr speed limit of each PAS level is reached.

I thought the same thing.

Is the OP using the gears properly to suit their leg strength? All you need do is turn those pedals and the bike should do all the work if you want to ride it with the 'ghost pedalling' approach. Put the bike in a low gear and just turn the pedals lightly and it will go along doing all the work unless you come to a very steep hill.

 

[Ghost1951]

Hi everyone, hoping someone can help me out! I'm in Bromley, South London:

My situation:

I'm 31 with a muscle disease that prevents me from being able to walk very far, or lift too much, so I purchased an e-bike in 2021 from Halfords to help with minor journeys. The bike's battery case has fallen apart. I'm in major need of a micromobility solution and have been looking into mobility scooters but I am scared to take that step as "if you don't use it, you lose it". Any repair costs for the bike would be coming from my mobility scooter budget, which isn't huge.

I am looking for advice regarding:

• Whether my disappointing ride experience is due to bike malfunction, and could be improved, and so it is worth fixing the bike;
• Whether Halfords will provide an upgrade to the smart control system which might improve my ride experience (if they would even provide a fix to the battery casing in the first place?)
• If this can be fixed by myself, e.g., there's an alternative casing option out there that I just can't find, or maybe I should get a second hand somerby ebike and take the case from it?

The bike:
Pendleton Somerby Ebike, purchased 2021 from Halfords, had an extensive service in 2022 but only used it twice since that service until the last six weeks. It has been stored inside until recently, where I've been keeping it outside but under a bike cover to enable access for using it. In the last six weeks it's been used more, but only to cycle to my local station and home again, or to the local shop, so maybe 20 mins max each time it's used, and only two/three times a week.

The experience:
I'd call the ride experience of this bike "inconsistent":

• It sometimes feels as though something is dragging against the wheel when I ride the bike. I get off to check, there's nothing there, sometimes it goes away and rides perfectly, until ...
• the power cuts out when going over speed bumps (I live in an area with many speed bumps)
• there's been a couple of occasions where the LCD controller hasn't worked, so the power doesn't turn on at all. Fun!
• It usually feels tough to ride; I don't know whether this is because I have a muscle disease, so the fatigue of bike riding is immediate for me, or whether it's a bike issue. But even cycling to the Lidl's on the corner - which is maybe 2-3 mins ride - has my legs like jelly.
  • There's a possibility this could be addressed by upgrading the Smart Control System to a torque control (as per this thread), so I don't want to go to Halfords and get the case repaired if there's a possibility that someone can come out and repair the case / upgrade the controller at the same time. I doubt Halfords would upgrade the controller, and no one at Halfords will talk to me about the possibilities without first seeing the bike in person. They do not do house calls, which seems silly given the amount of disabled people who use bikes for mobility aids!

Storage:
It has always been stored inside, until very recently. I have not had access to a car, so dragged the bike out and kept it under a cover in the garden to enable access when I needed it. I do not believe this battery casing damage is from the last six weeks.

Battery casing damage:
This picture is the part of the battery case where the controller is kept. You can see the screw that is supposed to keep the whole case together - the plastic around that screw has come apart from the rest of the case. I have also attached a photo of the controller side. This video shows the other side of the case, where the battery slides into place, in which the plastic around the screws have also disintergrated.

View attachment 59373


Basically, I'm at a loss as to whether to write the bike off, or to put a bit of money into getting it useable again, and if I do that, how do I source someone / a company who can do the controller upgrade for me, as well?

I am puzzled about why the battery casing failure happened like this. Has someone abused the casing, or has it been dropped? It does not look at all like normal wear and tear to me. The Pendleton Summersby battery is quite well supported in its rack, so there should not be heavy forces around those casing screws, even bumping over sleeping policemen in the road. Obviously you want to go slowly over them for the sake of the wheels, forks, frame and everything else.

It isn't old enough for the plastic to have degenerated.

 

[Nealh]

Typically with those basic speed control bikes a lot of folks complain of the harsh abrupt initial push in the back that can take them unawares.

 

[Nealh]

The main battery connection from controller to battery shouldn't be affected however it is worth checking the bullet connections and fractionally crimping up the female bullet to ensure a solid connection.
Like wise do the same for the three phase wire bullets Blue/Green & Yellow if used.

The cell pack within the case and the connections may need checking for any damage or loose connections to the battery pack.

 

[Sturmey]

There is one unusual thing about the pendleton somerby ( 2017 model) and that there is some kind of two stage power arrangement with the pedal assist. When you pedal very slowly, you get lower power to the motor. It steps up to the full power when you increase your pedal rate but speed of course is limited by the 790 setting. I am not sure if this is the case with the later models.

 

[Nealh]

Had a look at your controller pic attachment, it shows the motor phase/Hall connection. Though the two parts align to the arrows they look to be 1.5mm - 2mm shy of being fully pushed home, this small amount can make a difference in the phase /Hall wire connection.

 

[saneagle]

With all those screws broken through, the battery can move, which is causing connection issues. You need to hold everything more securely to the rack - straps, large cable-ties or something similar.

Also, you need to slow down over speed bumps, especially the short plastic ones, or ride around them. The ones at our Asda would wreck any battery.

Nobody can help you physically, nor advise you where to go unless you say where you are!

 

[jemimanlh]

I am puzzled about why the battery casing failure happened like this. Has someone abused the casing, or has it been dropped? It does not look at all like normal wear and tear to me. The Pendleton Summersby battery is quite well supported in its rack, so there should not be heavy forces around those casing screws, even bumping over sleeping policemen in the road. Obviously you want to go slowly over them for the sake of the wheels, forks, frame and everything else.

It isn't old enough for the plastic to have degenerated.

Honestly, it is so puzzling, especially as all the screws have done it - not just one or two?

What do you mean by abuse of the casing? I don’t think the casing can be dropped? Maybe it has been caused by the few times I have put the bike on it’s seat and handles to fix chain issues? But honestly, a bike should be able to handle that?

It has had panniers on but nothing heavyweight.

 

[jemimanlh]

With all those screws broken through, the battery can move, which is causing connection issues. You need to hold everything more securely to the rack - straps, large cable-ties or something similar.

Also, you need to slow down over speed bumps, especially the short plastic ones, or ride around them. The ones at our Asda would wreck any battery.

Nobody can help you physically, nor advise you where to go unless you say where you are!

I was considering electrical tapping everything together as a short term fix, but I could actually zip tie through the holes the casing has as a result of the rotten screw holes, maybe?

 

[jemimanlh]

With all those screws broken through, the battery can move, which is causing connection issues. You need to hold everything more securely to the rack - straps, large cable-ties or something similar.

Also, you need to slow down over speed bumps, especially the short plastic ones, or ride around them. The ones at our Asda would wreck any battery.

Nobody can help you physically, nor advise you where to go unless you say where you are!

Yes, I have never pedalled over speed bumps when I’ve had to cycle over them, as I usually cycle with a takeaway coffee style cup I am not about the high speed ride, I am a ‘slow and in style’ rider

 

[jemimanlh]

Had a look at your controller pic attachment, it shows the motor phase/Hall connection. Though the two parts align to the arrows they look to be 1.5mm - 2mm shy of being fully pushed home, this small amount can make a difference in the phase /Hall wire connection.

Oh amazing thank you! I’m considering electrical taping up the whole lot and seeing if that holds.

 

[jemimanlh]

There is one unusual thing about the pendleton somerby ( 2017 model) and that there is some kind of two stage power arrangement with the pedal assist. When you pedal very slowly, you get lower power to the motor. It steps up to the full power when you increase your pedal rate but speed of course is limited by the 790 setting. I am not sure if this is the case with the later models.

Ah this probably is not an appropriate ebike option for someone with dodgy legs, then! What a shame. The battery is intact so might sell that on.

 

[jemimanlh]

Being frank , Halfords or just any LBS isn't an ideal place to have work undertaken.

Thank you, this is helpful. What is an LBS?