Oxydrive Kit

[Deleted member 4366]

Which type of Bafang motor is supplied with the kit d8veh?

It's a motor special for Oxydrive. That's all I know. It must have a speed of about 250rpm at 36v because a normal 201rpm motor has a no-load speed of 20mph, whil as this one has 24mph.

 

[Eagle]

Is there much difference in the handling between a front hub bike and a rear hub one?

I was under the impression that a rear hub was better/safer. I can understand that the front hub does not need to bother about any conflicts with the gear cassette, freewheel etc.

What is the price of a replacement battery?

Are suitable brake cutouts available for Shimano hydraulic disc brakes?

Dave, thanks for that reply.

You maybe overlooked my non-Hollowtech questions above.

It is possible that with pedelec only (no throttle) there may be no actual need for brake cut out switches, just stop pedalling!

 

[jerrysimon]

I have found with pedelec I almost prefer a brake cut out because of "over run".

My experience with pedelec (not a lot) also makes me prefer to have throttle as well.

If I could only have one, it would most certainly be throttle.

Regards

Jerry

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Sorry. I started with the sensor and then forgot about the rest.
For a 250w motor,you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference front or rear if you were blind-folded. IMHO front drive is safer than rear; rear is quieter; rear gets more traction, but can wheely on very steep hills. If you have nice gears and changers, it has to be front-wheel drive, so rear is better on bikes without decent gears.

A replacement battery would be expensive, but they use 18650 cells which you can buy on Ebay, so I'd re-cell it and get more capacity. By the time the battery needs replacing, the cells will be up to 5aH each, which would give you a 20aH battery of a similar size and weight. Already there's 4aH ones. And I bet that you'll be able to buy standard bottle batteries with a much higher spec. The case is standard. A BMSbattery one will fit and only costs £150 delivered, but doesn't look as nice; however, you could easily swap the insides.

If you have pedal sensor operation, brake switches are essential because the motor runs on for about 2 seconds after you stop pedalling.
There are no readily available brake switches for Shimano hydraulic brakes. You have to make your own.

 

[Old_Dave]

There is one hydraulic option from the other place

Endless-sphere.com • View topic - Magura brake pressure switch

.. not cheap though, I'm sure theres a cheaper option / method

BionX Press Switch for Magura brakes | enables motor cut-off even for hydraulic brakes

 

[eddieo]

My DaaHub set up has switches fitted to hydraulic brakes..they were taped on for 12 months with special Wisper tape that comes with the kit, now fixed with epoxy resin.....would not like bike without them.

 

[Geebee]

Whilst I agree that brake cut outs are essential with Pedelec, I would happily do away with a throttle, as a pedelec is so much more bike like and there is no holding the throttle on long rides or when trying to hold partial throttle etc.
You just turn on, hop on and ride.

 

[shemozzle999]

I'd love to know how they work because the cable passes straight through. I'm thinking it must be a pressure sensor.

Thinking it could be similar to a solenoid in operation - just a very fine wired coil with many turns - when the cable moves it induces a voltage in the coil which could active a circuit to switch the controller.

 

[Waspy]

First step was to fit the motor in the forks...... and I chose to deepen them a bit to re-centralise the axle. When I tested it, it span freely, but I could hear a ticking noice, which was the motor just touching the fork leg. This wouldn't have happened if I hadn't deepened the drop-outs so far. Solved by making a 0.5mmwasher, which kept the leg clear.

What does "re-centralise the axle" mean? Why do you have to do this?

..................So I got the meter manual out and re-set the max speed limit to 40kph.

So you can change a setting on the LED display to make it go faster than the legal max?

Nice to see a kit that doesn't require you to change your brake levers. Shame it's a bit pricey...yes I know, you get what you pay for etc.

 

[Eagle]

Old_Dave,
Thanks for the links.

d8veh,
Is your reed switch solution for the hydraulic brakes standing up to the test of time?

There seem to be so many different reed switches on the market.
What type do you recommend?

Assuming I had to recell the battery today, how much would a set of OEM Samsung 18650 cells cost and how many are needed?

 

[amigafan2003]

there is no holding the throttle on long rides or when trying to hold partial throttle etc.

Take the spring out of the throttle ;-)

 

[Deleted member 4366]

What does "re-centralise the axle" mean? Why do you have to do this?



So you can change a setting on the LED display to make it go faster than the legal max?

Nice to see a kit that doesn't require you to change your brake levers. Shame it's a bit pricey...yes I know, you get what you pay for etc.

Most smaller hub-motors have 12mm axles with the sides milled off to make 10mm wide. The Ezee motor and most American ones are 14 x 10mm. So, for a 12mm (Oxydrive)one touching the top of the drop-out, the centre would be 1.5mm further down, but it's not the same shape: Now an arc at the top instead of a semi-circle, so the corners hold it off by about .5mm. Therefore the centre is now about 2mm further down. This isn't a problem with flat drop-outs, but most have a dimple (lawyers lips) that a washer has to fit into. If you can't get the washer completely in the dimple, when you tighten the wheel-nuts the washers exert a huge spreading force on the drop-out , which causes the front to break off. Not a problem on steel forks. Some kits like the Oxydrive kit provide thin (in diameter) washers that can still fit in the dimple as long as the axle isn't too far off centre, which solves the problem, but I like it to look right with the axle central to the dimple, so I always make the drop-outs a bit deeper. I have a little milling tool for my Dremmel that does the job in seconds, but you need a bit of craftsmanship to get both exactly 10mm wide and the right depths, so it takes a few iterations - keep milling and test-fitting.

Of course some drop-outs are already 10mm, in which case you might not have to do anything,

The maximum speed is set to 15mph wheen delivered. You press and hold the up and down buttons on the control switch and you can change the display settings and the max speed. The max possible is 40kph, which is 25mph, but the motor can only spin to 24 and a bit mph at 36v by design.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Old_Dave,
Thanks for the links.

d8veh,
Is your reed switch solution for the hydraulic brakes standing up to the test of time?

There seem to be so many different reed switches on the market.
What type do you recommend?

Assuming I had to recell the battery today, how much would a set of OEM Samsung 18650 cells cost and how many are needed?

Read switches are working well on my dahon, where there's a lot of magnet movement on the cable, but weren't so good on my hydraulic brakes. The switching point is easy to get right. You have to get the magnet at the right angle as well as position otherwise it switches on but still has enough magnetism to stay on when the magnet moves away. I think hall sensors are a better solution because you get more precise switching. Something like this:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=43680&hilit=shimano+xt+switch

I'm not too sure how to wire it. I need to do some trials, but I think like this: For a normal brake switch, one wire is 5v and when you join it to the other it cuts the motor, so I believe that the controller is looking for a high (5v) signal on the return wire, so that one should be connected to the signal wire of the hall. The other two hall wires are its power supply (0v and 5v), which can be taken from the throttle or PAS wires. It might work using the brake 5v for power supply and any common 0v, but I don't know whether you can pull any current from that one.

It could be that the 0v wire pulls down the 5v when the brake switch activates so that the controller cuts when it senses low (0v) in which case you need a different arrangement.

If you have the Oxydrive three wire brake switches, you'd just cut off the hidden wire switch and solder on the hall sensor, which is simple.

 

[Eagle]

d8veh,
Thanks for those comprehensive replies.

I am beginning to think I should send my Giant Anthem up to you and get you to fit the Oxydrive conversion kit and do the umpteen necessary modifications.

Then again, I could just leave well alone and enjoy the bike as it is.

 

[eddieo]

Get a Wisper DaaHub kit much more classy......

 

[Eagle]

So now we have Daahub, Oxydrive, 8fun, Ezee, GBK etc etc.

d8veh,
Which of the above front hub drive kits would you recommend?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

So now we have Daahub, Oxydrive, 8fun, Ezee, GBK etc etc.

d8veh,
Which of the above front hub drive kits would you recommend?

You can cross off the DAA Hub from Wisper. It's never been available, nor will it ever be available in the UK unless Eddieo decides to sell his. It's difficult for me to recommend, because they're all different, but here's how I see it.

• Oxydrive looks the best and nicely specified.
• Ezee is heavy but strong and better at climbing
• Juicy is cheaper, but doesn't look as good, and no disc brake version
• Alien is similar but takes a disc, but battery rack is ugly. High power and high speed option for which I'd prefer a higher rated battery.
• 8fun is similar to Oxydrive, but doesn't look as nice and not as highly specified.
• Cyclotricity is cheap as a basic kit and lots of battery options. Not sure which motor it has
• Xipi if you want high speed
• BMSBattery/GBK DIY cheap, but you need to do a bit of wiring and checking - can get whatever you want depending on DIY skills
• GNG crank drive is relatively heavy, but has torque and speed for fun. Not sure about long term reliability of primary drive.
• Cyclone has torque and speed, but noisy and mounting system is not secure enough.

Lots of choice now the same as ready-made bikes. Everybody's looking for something different. I think that if you've got a higher spec bike and you want it electrified and you want it to stay looking nice, the Oxydrive kit is a strong contender. It's a shame there's no quick solution for hydraulic brakes.

 

[amigafan2003]

Get a Wisper DaaHub kit much more classy......

Who sells them in the UK?

 

[Eagle]

d8veh,
Thanks for the rundown on the various hub kits.

Cable operated disc brakes are fine but I much prefer the Giant Anthem's hydraulic ones. Also, the basic bike is much lighter to start with compared to the average electric bike.

Let's hope somebody finds a cheap(er) and easy solution to hydraulic brake cutoffs.

 

[eddieo]

Dear Oh dear...

D a a H u b By Wisper Premium electric bike conversion kit Daa Brakes