Overclockers Dream

[derf]

I

I got one too, is it daft to ask whether it will work with a ku123?

i plan to shoehorn it into a pre-war sunbeam, no less

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I use these rims:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-26-MTB-Mountain-Bike-Bicycle-Disc-V-Brake-Rigida-Alloy-Rims-Wheels-/111181184811?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item19e2ea3f2b

 

[patpatbut]

I use these rims:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-26-MTB-Mountain-Bike-Bicycle-Disc-V-Brake-Rigida-Alloy-Rims-Wheels-/111181184811?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item19e2ea3f2b

Thanks Dave

How about this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BARGAIN-2-X-EXAL-SUPER-LIGHT-SL19-RIMS-559-19-26-MTB-36H-SPOKE-OFFER-NEW-/331241507234?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item4d1f8849a2

As I use it for my spare 26 MTB, I do not want to spend future on it

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I got one too, is it daft to ask whether it will work with a ku123?

The most they'll safely handle is 20 to 22 amps at 36v and about 18 amps at 48v, i.e. about 900 watts from the battery, as long as you don't go too slow up steep hills for too long. Running at constant high speed is not a problem for them. You could of course experiment with oil cooling to go for higher power.

The KU123 is too high at 30 amps. You could cut one of the shunts, which would send it down to 15A, and then add a bit of solder to the remaining one to increase it a bit, or you could file/crimp notches in both of the shunts to cut the current down. Don't do that without a wattmeter to check the results.

 

[Alan Quay]

I got one too, is it daft to ask whether it will work with a ku123?

Its not daft to ask, but my guess is that's a bit too far, as it will go to 30A

I'm going with a shunt modded ku65, running around 18A, but I'm probably being conservative.

D8veh said earlier in the thread that he's heard others go to 900w, which is 25A.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Thanks Dave

How about this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BARGAIN-2-X-EXAL-SUPER-LIGHT-SL19-RIMS-559-19-26-MTB-36H-SPOKE-OFFER-NEW-/331241507234?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item4d1f8849a2

As I use it for my spare 26 MTB, I do not want to spend future on it

Cheap enough, but eyelets often interfere with spoke angle. They tend to fix 13g nipples at right-angles, so probably only suitable for 1-cross pattern. The spokes he offers are too long unfortunately. I calculate 213 mm for 1-cross and 226mm for 2-cross with those rims, assuming the spoke flange is 120mm - the same as a QSWXK5. Use those rims with 14g spokes and probably 1-cross pattern.

 

[twinkle]

bit more info

diameter is 130mm flange width 45 mm

mines going in a folding shopper at 37 v on 20" wheels
good for 20 mph l hope ,
I have just fitted a 5 speed shimano block and alli 20x1.75 wheels , folding pedals and straight bars, ground the chainwheel to 3/32 and I am just spraying the battery rack

By my calculations 1x spokes 392 dia rim 130 dia hub and 45 mm apart
137 mm spokes
I was thinking of lacing them the same as the currie way with ALL the spokes going in and then they can be laced .

I might need to modify a pair of BMX forks to fit the frame to cope with all that power rather than the Polish standard fitment , The originals have been stretched to 100mm without a problem and 10mm lugs but they do seem a bit flimsy as I will need to make up a spacer rather than grind off some of the anti rotate bushes . The forks are 20 years old and have survived so far

 

[friendly1uk]

The motor supplier sells sun rhino lite rims for about £23. If you also buy their realistically priced spokes they will build the wheel for free.

I know they don't have spokes to get my 165mm motor in a 26" rim, but they wrote today asking if they should bill my paypal for a set of spokes as I ordered motor and rim and they thought I would want it building.

They will accept wheel bits back again, if you want the free build. I would make very sure they can do it first though, as I'm getting conflicting mails from them. My order is a bit messy... Two rims a £20 deore (no disc) front hub and set of workshop spokes, plus a front hub motor. They don't understand I have different builds on. I think I have told them 5 times now. However, they have been sterling performers in the past. Mail is often answered within minutes, with links to suitable products.

edit: I think you only need spend £20 for the free build. We could easily have a built wheel together with nice tyre for under £100 (though 14g spokes, which I'm happy enough with)

Edit2: Just a bit of padding.. I just paid £21.57 for 36 custom length spokes to be delivered from justridingalong.com Which have 13g elbows and 14g elsewhere. Sapim Strong's. About 40% stronger than an average Sapim.

 

[patpatbut]

My neighbour received my motor late afternoon.

Problem is I do not have the waterproof cable that opposite to the connector of the motor.

Does anyone know how to source this cable? It looks exactly like the one in the photo from CCR.

Not sure the one from BMSB is the same...:S

Pat

 

[Alan Quay]

View attachment 9576 My neighbour received my motor late afternoon.

Problem is I do not have the waterproof cable that opposite to the connector of the motor.

Does anyone know how to source this cable? It looks exactly like the one in the photo from CCR.

Not sure the one from BMSB is the same...:S

Pat

I'm gonna cut it of and use something else. I'll probably solder it to a cable, and connect to the controller dreckly .

 

[twinkle]

DT SWISS 2mm Plain Gauge Spokes S/S Sliver with Nipples 100-169 137mm £13.45 post free

from flea bay

Wont get anything else done till I get back from my break

regards emma

 

[derf]

mine has 6 small pins and 3power pins

regards Emma

Thanks all re feedback about ku123,d8veh I will try the cut and soldier the shunt bit, will be dead chuffed if mine I sensored!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If you get a sensored one, you can use the 3-speed switch to get a speed boost. When you connect the middle wire to one of the outer wires, it changes the timing to get more speed than is normally possible. The other wire on the connector limits the speed, so you have to find out which is which.

 

[danielrlee]

If you get a sensored one, you can use the 3-speed switch to get a speed boost. When you connect the middle wire to one of the outer wires, it changes the timing to get more speed than is normally possible. The other wire on the connector limits the speed, so you have to find out which is which.

Is this hall sensor requirement only relevant with a KU123 controller for three speeds? On my non-sensored SWX I get three distinct speeds with a 3-speed switch.

 

[patpatbut]

I use these rims:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-26-MTB-Mountain-Bike-Bicycle-Disc-V-Brake-Rigida-Alloy-Rims-Wheels-/111181184811?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item19e2ea3f2b

Thanks Dave

How about this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BARGAIN-2-X-EXAL-SUPER-LIGHT-SL19-RIMS-559-19-26-MTB-36H-SPOKE-OFFER-NEW-/331241507234?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item4d1f8849a2

As I use it for my spare 26 MTB, I do not want to spend futune on it

I'm gonna cut it of and use something else. I'll probably solder it to a cable, and connect to the controller dreckly .

Thanks Mike,

Would you mind to take a photo when you cut them?

If you could show the wire combination that would be great.

Pat

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Is this hall sensor requirement only relevant with a KU123 controller for three speeds? On my non-sensored SWX I get three distinct speeds with a 3-speed switch.

Some controllers, like the BMSB KU123, 93 and 63, can give a 120% speed by changing the pulse timing. It's normally done by the high position of the three-speed switch. It only works with hall sensors because otherwise the controller can't get the timing. Other controllers use the three-speed switch to cut down the speed, so you get 100%, 80% and 60% or similar.

No sign of my motor yet. I checked the tracking number, and it says that it's not left Chain Reactions yet. I was first to order too. Grrrr!.

 

[Alan Quay]

Thanks Dave

How about this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BARGAIN-2-X-EXAL-SUPER-LIGHT-SL19-RIMS-559-19-26-MTB-36H-SPOKE-OFFER-NEW-/331241507234?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item4d1f8849a2

As I use it for my spare 26 MTB, I do not want to spend futune on it



Thanks Mike,

Would you mind to take a photo when you cut them?

If you could show the wire combination that would be great.

Pat

Sorry, just read your post 2 mins after heat shrinking it all back together. However, its pretty standard stuff in there:

3 phase wires (larger), Blue, Green, Yellow,
3 hall sensor (Smaller) of corresponding colour,
Black, Red (Hall sensor power)
white (Speed sensor probably)

I don't intend to use the sensors, so I soldered mine to a piece of 3 core flex:
Blue to Blue
Brown to Green
Earth to Yellow

 

[derf]

Some controllers, like the BMSB KU123, 93 and 63, can give a 120% speed by changing the pulse timing. It's normally done by the high position of the three-speed switch. It only works with hall sensors because otherwise the controller can't get the timing. Other controllers use the three-speed switch to cut down the speed, so you get 100%, 80% and 60% or similar.

No sign of my motor yet. I checked the tracking number, and it says that it's not left Chain Reactions yet. I was first to order too. Grrrr!.

it may be time to ask what's up, I just got an email saying mine's been dispatched (hypothetically this wheel, a cheap controller, a few 6s and an old bike makes a sub £150 pedelec!)

 

[Deleted member 4366]

My one arrived today. It has the same connector as the one in the photo above, which is non-standard and won't fit the normal nine-pin ones that you get from BMSBattery or Shemozzle. I didn't notice it before in that photo. It looks more substantial than the normal nine-pin ones. Unless anybody knows of a source for that matching connection, we have to cut it off and solder all the wires to the normal one - bummer:
http://www.bmsbattery.com/accessory/439-9pin-waterproof-cable-female-connector-for-motor.html

On the plus side, my motor's brand new. They said that they've been disassembled them from bikes, but, you always get spoke marks when the wheel is built. Mine is virgin.

Another let-down is that it's not disc brake compatible. It can't be modified because the bearings are too big. You'd have to re-drill the disc, open up the inner diameter, and then drill and tap the left side of the motor with 5mm threads. - a lot of messing about.

 

[Alan Quay]

When I install mine in the wife's bike, I will be left with a spare SWX, 24v. It must be a high winding, cos it'll go at 23 MPH on 26"/36v, but it's pretty low on torque.

I'm considering putting it in a 20" wheel, which would bring it down to about 17mph and give it more reasonable torque.

I like the look of the Raleigh folder that d8veh did for someone. How did you find it to ride Dave? Was it too small for you?