Old Newbie here hoping to get some help from the more experienced.

TonyT28

Finding my (electric) wheels
Sep 6, 2021
5
0
Hi, I have just purchased my 1st E-Bike. I’ve not been on a bike for about 50 years, I’m 68 now so all this is very new to me. When I bought my bike it was in a bit of a state. The bike is a Carerra Vulcan with a Voilamart conversion kit. It took me ages to find out out what the motor was as it has been sprayed and doesn’t have any decals on it. The LCD was cracked so I could see any settings on it. I had to switch it on and count the number of times I pressed the up button to “guess” which number pedal assist I was using. I have since bought the same LCD as was fitted on the bike. I eventually found it to be a KT-LCD3. I am happy with most of the settings but have a few issues which hopefully someone can advise me with. I have tried using the setting for the battery on level 15 which apparently is the default setting for a 36v battery. When using it set to 15 it does not show the battery to be fully charged, although it is. The very first segment does not light up. I changed the setting to 0 and it then showed a full battery. When using this setting I notice the battery level to be fluctuating, sometimes dropping to 0. Is this normal? Another issue is when using pedal assist the power seems to overrun by about 1 or 2 seconds when I stop pedalling. My last question is when the motor is under pressure it makes a very strange noise, it’s not a grinding or crunching noise, just difficult to describe. Does anyone have a clue what it may be? Sorry for the long winded post.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,917
8,533
61
West Sx RH
What make is the controller ?
Is it also a KT ?
If the controller isn't a KT then that might explain the over run, none of my KT's suffer overrun.
If the lcd3 is showing a voltage readout then use that as your fuel gauge and not the battery bars as they are too a degree pretty useless for accuracy.
As for the noise we have as much an idea as you, we need a sound recording or a short film.
 
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vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,993
Basildon
That's what the setting does. It's just a damping factor for the display. The voltage is jumping up and down all the time. The setting (P5) dampens down the display so that you can see the state of charge. It has no influence on how the bike works.

There is a delay before the battery display will show the correct condition, you have to ride for 10 secs on so before it sorts itself out. I think P5 is the length of the moving average. The higher the setting, the longer it takes before the display can get a value for the first average.
 
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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,917
8,533
61
West Sx RH
For P5 with 36v I tend to use 10 or 12, my older lcd1 & 2 have no V readout but the segments go down fairly universal so over the years I have got know the approx. V's of each segment. With my lcd3 bike I simply use the voltage readout for accuracy.
 
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TonyT28

Finding my (electric) wheels
Sep 6, 2021
5
0
Hi, I have just purchased my 1st E-Bike. I’ve not been on a bike for about 50 years, I’m 68 now so all this is very new to me. When I bought my bike it was in a bit of a state. The bike is a Carerra Vulcan with a Voilamart conversion kit. It took me ages to find out out what the motor was as it has been sprayed and doesn’t have any decals on it. The LCD was cracked so I could see any settings on it. I had to switch it on and count the number of times I pressed the up button to “guess” which number pedal assist I was using. I have since bought the same LCD as was fitted on the bike. I eventually found it to be a KT-LCD3. I am happy with most of the settings but have a few issues which hopefully someone can advise me with. I have tried using the setting for the battery on level 15 which apparently is the default setting for a 36v battery. When using it set to 15 it does not show the battery to be fully charged, although it is. The very first segment does not light up. I changed the setting to 0 and it then showed a full battery. When using this setting I notice the battery level to be fluctuating, sometimes dropping to 0. Is this normal? Another issue is when using pedal assist the power seems to overrun by about 1 or 2 seconds when I stop pedalling. My last question is when the motor is under pressure it makes a very strange noise, it’s not a grinding or crunching noise, just difficult to describe. Does anyone have a clue what it may be? Sorry for the long winded post.
What make is the controller ?
Is it also a KT ?
If the controller isn't a KT then that might explain the over run, none of my KT's suffer overrun.
If the lcd3 is showing a voltage readout then use that as your fuel gauge and not the battery bars as they are too a degree pretty useless for accuracy.
As for the noise we have as much an idea as you, we need a sound recording or a short film.
Hi, it’s a KT36 Controller.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,917
8,533
61
West Sx RH
Have a look at C14, one can try and use value 1 or 2 to lessen the strength it may help with over run, though as I mentioned not something I have experienced with my KT's.

It may be an older firmware version of KT controller the new dual voltage ones don't have this issue in my experience.

Also try C1 but it depends on which PAS you have fitted as to which values to try.
 

TonyT28

Finding my (electric) wheels
Sep 6, 2021
5
0
Have a look at C14, one can try and use value 1 or 2 to lessen the strength it may help with over run, though as I mentioned not something I have experienced with my KT's.

It may be an older firmware version of KT controller the new dual voltage ones don't have this issue in my experience.

Also try C1 but it depends on which PAS you have fitted as to which values to try.
Thank you, if it is old firmware I might invest in a new controller.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,993
Basildon
Is it a sensorless motor? How many wires in the motor cable? 3 = sensorless; 8 or 9 = sensored.

What you describe regarding the roughish running is typical of a sensorless motor with a square wave controller running with a relatively high current. It smoothes out as the motor speeds up.

I never heard of over-run with a KT contrller. Cheap controllers often do it. There is a setting to set the controller back to factory settings. It might be worth giving that a go. C10=Y
 
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