Next conversion: Motor and controller choice...

[morphix]

Ok I've decided to order from BMS Battery rather than Green Bike Kit as they have the proper thumb throttle and Green Bike Kit don't unfortunately...

Here's what I think I need:

Q100 36V 250W-350W Rear Driving V-brake Hub Motor (328 RM) - $79

KU63 250W 6Mosfets High Speed Controller - $15.30

Thumb Level Throttle - $4

PAS--Pulse Padel Assistant Sensor - $1.50

Let me know if you think I've picked the wrong items or missed anything

 

[morphix]

View attachment 4425I also want to get this:

Hidden Brake Wire Sensor - $5.90
For motor safety cut-out when braking.

And I plan to get a speedict (£63):

 

[Old_Dave]

I think the ku63 is brake signal low only, where as the brake sensors give signal high .... The easy way around this is to use the ku9 something controller which has both low and high option.


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[morphix]

I think the ku63 is brake signal low only, where as the brake sensors give signal high .... The easy way around this is to use the ku9 something controller which has both low and high option.


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Thanks Dave I will take a look. Looks like this one?

KU93 9Mosfets 450W High Speed Brushless Hub Motor Controller - $18.90

 

[Old_Dave]

It's ku93 ..


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[morphix]

Anodising motor?

Catsnapper suggested anodising the motor would be the best way to get a black motor as I would prefer black to silver..my entire bike is anodised so it would blend in better.

Does anyone know any places that would do something like that and is it likely to be expensive or pose any risk the motor?

 

[morphix]

It's ku93 ..


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Thanks, I guessed right then I was about to order but thought I'd check first with you knowledgeable guys, I'm glad I did!

 

[Old_Dave]

Your having a laugh........


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[morphix]

Brake sensor question

Also does anyone have any idea how those brake sensors work? I'm assuming you clip the brake brake cable into it, and some kind of switch or movement sensor inside will detect when the brake cable moves? Or does it require the brake cable actually being removed and feeding through it and work on tension?

 

[morphix]

Your having a laugh........


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What, about the anodising?

 

[Old_Dave]

Remove inner cable, cut outer cable where you want to fit the sensor... Then cut off a bit more of the outer (equal to the length of the sensor... So that inner won't be to short) fit outers into sensor, re thread the inner cable through the whole lot.


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[Old_Dave]

Yes

And I believe that it's the tension on the outer rather than movement of the inner that makes it work.


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[morphix]

Remove inner cable, cut outer cable where you want to fit the sensor... Then cut off a bit more of the outer (equal to the length of the sensor... So that inner won't be to short) fit outers into sensor, re thread the inner cable through the whole lot.


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Hmm sounds like quite a bit of work..but it only needs doing once I guess.. I don't have any brake cut outs on my existing bike..the kit said it's so precise it doesn't need any and the Austrian dealer who sold me when I queried him over the safety side, said you won't need it!

 

[catsnapper]

Nope, I wasn't intending you get the hub anodised! Just commenting that anodising is the best way to ensure the hub will survive in a much prettier state than a painted one

Mind you, I've got a couple of customers who have stripped down motors, then had the casings machined and anodised or powder coated to suit their artistic requirements.......

I'll confirm what Old_Dave said about the inline brake sensors - the KU60 series controllers don't work as only low voltage, neither did my Lyen controller
An old KU90 unit with the high voltage option was fine.

Cutting the brake cable outer to fit the sensor is a simple, quick job - as long as you've got the means to cut it effectively

Alan

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Don't get the KU93 controller! It'll smoke that motor within about 5 miles as others have found out. Those sensors can be used with the KU63, which does have a high brake connector, but I haven't tried them yet. Mine arrived today, so I might be able to figure out how to connect them sometime this week-end. Rather than the KU63, the KU65 might be a better option if you intend to use the pedal sensor. The KU63 just gives full power as soon as you pedal, while as the KU65 has three levels of PAS through the panel.

 

[jhruk]

The ku63 does have a brake high connection on the board but is normally supplied with only the brake low wired. It is marked SH and is adjacent to the brake low connection marked SL. You just have to change the wire over on the board. See here for a circuit and wiring diagram.

Sorry - crossed post.

 

[morphix]

Don't get the KU93 controller! It'll smoke that motor within about 5 miles as others have found out. Those sensors can be used with the KU63, which does have a high brake connector, but I haven't tried them yet. Mine arrived today, so I might be able to figure out how to connect them sometime this week-end. Rather than the KU63, the KU65 might be a better option if you intend to use the pedal sensor. The KU63 just gives full power as soon as you pedal, while as the KU65 has three levels of PAS through the panel.

Thanks d8veh..I don't plan to use any LED panel and I would like to ride with throttle-only and PAS.. I'm not sure whether I can use speedict to switch between the two, or whether I can rig up some switch on the handlebar.. I know speedict has some button thing. My battery is 36v 10Ah.

 

[Old_Dave]

Don't get the KU93 controller!

Opppppppppps

 

[jateureka2]

Yes

And I believe that it's the tension on the outer rather than movement of the inner that makes it work.

NO, on the ones I have it is the inner wire that is gripped and this movement activates the switch.

 

[Old_Dave]

It doesn't matter any more as to the how, just that it works.. lol, as I found on my KU63 SL works fine.