Hi everyone, My name is Pat and I'm a 57 year old guy from Essex who has just bought a bike that already has a front wheel motor conversion. The guy I bought the bike from fitted it himself 2 years ago and said he bought the kit from Germany. The installation literature he has given me is a set of photos, probably from a pdf file, but it has no manufacturers details etc on it. I'm presuming, by a quick internet search, that the kit came from ebike solutions in Germany. The problem I have, and bear in mind please that I'm a total newbie to ebikes, is that I only seem to be able to get one speed out of the motor. The system has the thumb push activator on the handlebars. The guy told me he always had the motor assist set to No 5 on the control display and when activated the bike goes off very efficiently and maintains a speed of 25kmh per hour without any pedal assist. This is great but I want to pedal also use the motor to asist in headwind and hills, but at that speed my legs just can't keep up even on the hardest gear. When I turn the assistance level down to 4,3,2 or 1 there is no difference in the motor, it's either all or nothing. Is there something I'm doing wrong? Thank you.
New owner having problems.
- Thread starter Patchypants
- Start date
By thumb push activator do you mean throttle? If so, then the PAS settings do not have any effect on the throttle. Maybe a few pictures would also help?
Jonah's right. Throttle is always fullchat. The bike should have a pas system (pedal assist sensor), this will detect the rotation of the pedals and give power/speed to the level set on the display. Maybe the guy converting it didn't fit the pas - some don't.
There should be a plastic disc, with magnets in it, on the pedal shaft, with a small detector within a couple of mil of it.
We need photo's of the motor(with any markings), display and the bottom bracket area - also the controller if you know where it is.
There should be a plastic disc, with magnets in it, on the pedal shaft, with a small detector within a couple of mil of it.
We need photo's of the motor(with any markings), display and the bottom bracket area - also the controller if you know where it is.
Thanks for your super quick replies. I recall now that he said he didn’t attach the pedal sensor as he didn’t want it. I’ve taken some pics and will attach. It looks like there’s something coming off the pedal but is that the said sensor? He also gave me the twist throttle pictured and said I could use that instead of the thumb activator if I chose to fit it.
Attachments
Pat your kit uses the very good KT/Kuenteng electrics a lot of us use them.
What I do see is a PAS sensor is fitted on the LHS but see no magnet disc so the 5 pas levels won't work, you need to fit an 8 or 10 pole disc so it works properly then from there we can help you to fine tune the settings better for a nicer ride feel.
The fitter of the kit just hasn't fitted the important PAS disc so they feel awful using throttle all the time.
What I do see is a PAS sensor is fitted on the LHS but see no magnet disc so the 5 pas levels won't work, you need to fit an 8 or 10 pole disc so it works properly then from there we can help you to fine tune the settings better for a nicer ride feel.
The fitter of the kit just hasn't fitted the important PAS disc so they feel awful using throttle all the time.
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The last pic of the Red Julet connectors are for the brake cut outs which the the previous owner hasn't utilised.
The lcd display is the KT lcd3 and is very easy to adjust parameters once the PAS disc is fitted, did he not supply the said disc ?
Currently with the PAS sensor on the LHS it is set up wrong and the sensor head would not pick up any magnet sensing even if fitted. The whole sensor needs removing (so crank arm off and BB retaining nut removed), unscrew the black sensor head and place it on the other face of the sensor ring. Refit it so the offset places the black sensor nearer to the crank arm. The disc I linked to simply grips the BB sq taper axle and is held firmly by the small tangs. The sensor remains set in one position clamped by the lock ring and the disc only rotates when the crank is turned.
Usually the PAS sensor/disc is fitted on the RHS behind the chain rings, when fitted the magnet disc should pass the sensor head with about 1mm clearance for best sensing of said magnets.
The lcd display is the KT lcd3 and is very easy to adjust parameters once the PAS disc is fitted, did he not supply the said disc ?
Currently with the PAS sensor on the LHS it is set up wrong and the sensor head would not pick up any magnet sensing even if fitted. The whole sensor needs removing (so crank arm off and BB retaining nut removed), unscrew the black sensor head and place it on the other face of the sensor ring. Refit it so the offset places the black sensor nearer to the crank arm. The disc I linked to simply grips the BB sq taper axle and is held firmly by the small tangs. The sensor remains set in one position clamped by the lock ring and the disc only rotates when the crank is turned.
Usually the PAS sensor/disc is fitted on the RHS behind the chain rings, when fitted the magnet disc should pass the sensor head with about 1mm clearance for best sensing of said magnets.
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The two throttles I have on a pair of old Oxygen ebikes are variable twist grip types that can be varied, so variable throttles should be possible and I have found to be very useful. I can vary the power from the throttle from very little to all of it and any amount between the two.
This combined with a working pass system on both bikes provide a lot of variable control and I would recommend getting to that point if you can. The more control you have the better.
This combined with a working pass system on both bikes provide a lot of variable control and I would recommend getting to that point if you can. The more control you have the better.
Thanks for the replies. It’s nice to know the kit was a decent one! He said he didn’t order the pas ring so I’ve just ordered one from the link you kindly put up. I have to admit I’m a bit anxious about fitting it as an not brilliant with technical stuff (that’s why u bought the bike already converted) but hopefully you guys can steer me right. Thanks again everyone, I’ll be back in touch when the pas arrives.
Hi everyone, the pedal sensor ring has arrived and a friend has offered to come and assist me this morning to remove the crank and bb. He says it's difficult without the right tools so, kindly offered to help. Assuming all goes to plan what's the next step to getting everything working? Thanking you in advance.
Before you fit the PAS connect it to the controller depending on the wire colours of the PAS Red or Brown are 5v, Black is Gnd but if no Black it would be yellow & the third wire colour is the signal wire. Wire colours are very often non matching so you have to work out which is which. Pass the mag ring by it to make sure of the correct orientation of fitting and that it works correctly, the sensor head should be at the bottom I slightly angle it a few degrees off dead centre so the wire entry doesn't allow moisture to run in to the sensor head
For the PAS you will see the sensor holder is offset, sometimes you have to remove the sensor at fix it to the other face (may need a new hole drilled in tot he metal holder to screw the sensor on), the sensor when fitted needs to be about 1 - 2mm gap from the mag disc. It will be obvious the BB retaining nut needs undoing so the metal sensor holding ring is secured by the said BB nut.
The mag disc needs securing to the small chain wheel, I line up the disc to the chain ring bolts and either drill 2 or 4 holes in the disc so I can utilise the chain ring bolts to fix the disc to said chain ring.
For the PAS you will see the sensor holder is offset, sometimes you have to remove the sensor at fix it to the other face (may need a new hole drilled in tot he metal holder to screw the sensor on), the sensor when fitted needs to be about 1 - 2mm gap from the mag disc. It will be obvious the BB retaining nut needs undoing so the metal sensor holding ring is secured by the said BB nut.
The mag disc needs securing to the small chain wheel, I line up the disc to the chain ring bolts and either drill 2 or 4 holes in the disc so I can utilise the chain ring bolts to fix the disc to said chain ring.
Thank you Nealh, I will do as instructed and hopefully come back to you with positive news. Wish me luck!
He's done something weird with the wiring on the cable that has red yellow and black. He's put a bridge between the 5v and signal wire, which probably explains why you only get full power.
It's only a wild guess, but I'm thinking he didn't know how to do the settings. He probably didn't fit the magnet disc because there wasn't enough room, and he had the throttle set to only work when pedalling, so he bridged those wires to give a permanent pedalling at full speed signal. I've never bridged those wires, so I don't know what happens, but that's the logical explanation of why the throttle only gives max speed. If you give us all the P and C settings in the display and pull out that red bridge wire, we can help you set it up so that the throttle works normally.
With the Xiongda version of the KT controller and LCD, you only get normal throttle operation when you're not pedalling. If you're pedalling and open the throttle just a bit, the LCD level changes to 5 and you get only maximum power. I've not seen that on any of the other versions.
I'm sure your problem is due to that bridge wire because there's no reason for it. It's a bodge.
It's only a wild guess, but I'm thinking he didn't know how to do the settings. He probably didn't fit the magnet disc because there wasn't enough room, and he had the throttle set to only work when pedalling, so he bridged those wires to give a permanent pedalling at full speed signal. I've never bridged those wires, so I don't know what happens, but that's the logical explanation of why the throttle only gives max speed. If you give us all the P and C settings in the display and pull out that red bridge wire, we can help you set it up so that the throttle works normally.
With the Xiongda version of the KT controller and LCD, you only get normal throttle operation when you're not pedalling. If you're pedalling and open the throttle just a bit, the LCD level changes to 5 and you get only maximum power. I've not seen that on any of the other versions.
I'm sure your problem is due to that bridge wire because there's no reason for it. It's a bodge.
Back again with good news. It works! As soon as the sensor was fitted it all worked. I’m presuming it’s working as intended because the motor kicks in when I start to pedal and cuts out when I don’t. The thumb push works for an extra boost. Each setting from 1-5 draws more power from the motor and I’m guessIng these limits are factory set but hoping not. The only problem I have is that after 18km/h I can’t pedal fast enough, even on the hardest gear. Level 2 is the limit to where I can keep up with pedalling. Anything above level 2 and I look like Wild E Coyote running in midair when he’s gone over the cliff. I have to admit that I was riding round with a great big grin on my face; I think the locals must have thought a new “village idiot” had arrived.
The KT's are pre programmed, they use current control.
PAS1 is approx. 13% of total current, PAS2 20%, PAS3 33%, PAS4 50% & PAS5 100%.
If one is spinning to fast then your bike gearing s too low.
PAS1 is approx. 13% of total current, PAS2 20%, PAS3 33%, PAS4 50% & PAS5 100%.
If one is spinning to fast then your bike gearing s too low.
Thanks Nealh, I think the problem is the gears aren’t changing properly since the sensor ring was fitted. Onto my next YouTube tutorial to see how to do that. Thank you for your kind instructions.
If it's the front rings then you might have to adjust the H & L screws or look at the set up to see if the chain rings have been moved out.
Hi, just an update on my Wild E Coyote problem. What I've done is changed my front crankset from a triple, which had a 43T as the biggest crank, to a single crank 53T. Yes it's made the bike run with 7 gears instead of the 21 before but it's much better now, as I can use all 5 speeds on the motor and can keep pedaling in all gears. Got to say I'm loving every single minute of the adventure!
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