Help! New chain needed ?

[Joe Dude]

I got a Cube reaction e-bike with bosch motor and i need a new chain after snapping my old one which is now to weak to mend. trouble is the special e-bike chains i ve noticed come in different widths/ thickness and ive no idea which one fits my bike. anyone can give me advice and a link to were i can buy the chain id be grateful for the info

 

[Nealh]

You don't need to buy an ebike specific chain, std bike ones wil do the job and cheaper too.

 

[WavyDavy]

All you need is one for the number of speeds you have on the rear cassette. A 12speed has a slightly narrower chain than a 10speed which in turn is slightly narrower than a 9speed. Ebike specific chains are said to be stronger but who really knows. It could be marketing hype. KMC seem to be a good make and are not too expensive. Chain Reaction, Wiggle, Merlin, Amazon etc. depends who has stock. Delivery is usually within a couple of days. Next day if you are on Prime

 

[Dom T]

Number of speed on your chain 9/10/11/12, chain length (count the links if need be), KMC have always served me well. If you go to Cubes website you may get the spec on your chain which might help. Shop about on all sites mentioned above first, then once bought and done make a note of it somewhere for future purchases.

 

[jottoh]

I agree with others here yet would add I have found that its best to purchase a mid-level or "top of the tier" chain rather than the least expensive amongst any given brand. I have very good luck with normal KMC bicycle chain and have never purchased an eBike specific chain. Also, you might pickup an extra "master link" if the chain does not come with one. See you on the trails.

 

[Tank]

MY Cube reaction came with a KMC x11 chain already fitted so i just replace like for like. Done
over 5,500 miles, Only had the chain replaced 3 times. Still on the original rear cassette.

 

[The Bear]

MY Cube reaction came with a KMC x11 chain already fitted

So did my 11 speed Cube Reaction Race 500, but when I purchased a replacement chain it was longer. I hung it up on a nail next to my worn chain and reduced it down to the same size using a chain breaker tool, and used a quick link to join the new chain ends together with a pair of chain pliers

 

[Tank]

So did my 11 speed Cube Reaction Race 500, but when I purchased a replacement chain it was longer. I hung it up on a nail next to my worn chain and reduced it down to the same size using a chain breaker tool, and used a quick link to join the new chain ends together with a pair of chain pliers

Just fitted a new one today.

 

[argoose]

Get a chain checker tool, a worn chain will wear cassette and chainring which will make them incompatible with a new chain.
You should get three chains to a cassette and chainring.
Also ditch chain oil, it turns to grinding paste with any dirt. Use chain wax, it does not hold dirt, washes with water and I get average of three rides before I re-wax.

 

[jimriley]

So did my 11 speed Cube Reaction Race 500, but when I purchased a replacement chain it was longer. I hung it up on a nail next to my worn chain and reduced it down to the same size using a chain breaker tool, and used a quick link to join the new chain ends together with a pair of chain pliers

It's best to count the links rather than checking the length. you could end up with a longer than necessary new chain cos you are adding in the stretch of the old one.

 

[The Bear]

It's best to count the links rather than checking the length. you could end up with a longer than necessary new chain cos you are adding in the stretch of the old one.

Good point.

 

[AndyBike]

The chain is one of the consumables on a bike and changing it regularly, will contribute to keeping the cassette(More expensive) and chainring from wearing prematurely.
If you ride it to death, till it is so worn it slips, when you do replace itr, you will find a new chain slips too. This is because a worn chain really wears the cogs on a cassette, so in the end you have to replace both the chain and the rear cassette, which is 3x plus the outlay.
Get a chain checker, and when it indicated that the chain has 'Stretched'* you are better replacing it.
*Chains dont really stretch, its just a term, but the reality is the pivot bushings wear( the little roller bits between the links) and the chain becomes loose between the cogs and the chainring.
As a consumable bit, you dont need to spend loads, or go XTR or anything.
Because I change mine regularly, I pick something at the £10-£12 mark.
Just remember to lube it, and to wipe that lube off after lubing it- I know that sounds daft, but its only the rollers(bit between the links) that needs to have lube on it. If the whole chain is oily or greasy, it picks up dirt and grime which acts as a grinding paste, effectively prematurely wearing out the drive train components.

 

[vfr400]

The chain is one of the consumables on a bike and changing it regularly, will contribute to keeping the cassette(More expensive) and chainring from wearing prematurely.
If you ride it to death, till it is so worn it slips, when you do replace itr, you will find a new chain slips too. This is because a worn chain really wears the cogs on a cassette, so in the end you have to replace both the chain and the rear cassette, which is 3x plus the outlay.
Get a chain checker, and when it indicated that the chain has 'Stretched'* you are better replacing it.
*Chains dont really stretch, its just a term, but the reality is the pivot bushings wear( the little roller bits between the links) and the chain becomes loose between the cogs and the chainring.
As a consumable bit, you dont need to spend loads, or go XTR or anything.
Because I change mine regularly, I pick something at the £10-£12 mark.
Just remember to lube it, and to wipe that lube off after lubing it- I know that sounds daft, but its only the rollers(bit between the links) that needs to have lube on it. If the whole chain is oily or greasy, it picks up dirt and grime which acts as a grinding paste, effectively prematurely wearing out the drive train components.

Hmm!. I changed my chain once at 5,000 miles. That's the only time I've ever changed a chain in 20,000 miles of ebiking because my other bikes haven't reached 5,000 miles yet. I've never checked a chain for wear.

I changed the £10 cassette at the same time because I bought a box of 25 of them and they're taking up valuable space. An inspection of the used cassette showed no discernible wear at all. The new chain cost £7.49 from Halfords.

Maybe your comments are valid for some bikes that must give their drive train a bad time, You have to add some context to what you're saying because it's not really something that many of us need to worry about.

 

[The Bear]

Well in the 3 years and 2000 miles that I've had my ebike, commuting 10 miles east day, I've on my 3ed cassette and probably 5th chain. I replace my chain when it starts slipping, or if the chain measuring tools tells me to.

However, with all the bikes i had as a kid, I never once checked, oiled or replaced a single chain as i didn't even realise I had to.

 

[D C]

I think chain and cassette wear is also affected by rider weight and environment, irrespective of e powered or manual.
To get 2000 miles from a chain I'd have to lose a few kilos and move to Holland!
I replace the chain when gear changes become less than silky smooth, new cassette every 2 or 3 chains.

 

[vfr400]

Well in the 3 years and 2000 miles that I've had my ebike, commuting 10 miles east day, I've on my 3ed cassette and probably 5th chain. I replace my chain when it starts slipping, or if the chain measuring tools tells me to.

However, with all the bikes i had as a kid, I never once checked, oiled or replaced a single chain as i didn't even realise I had to.

So, what's changed? Could it be something to do with the chain measuring tool, or maybe that you have a crank-drive bike that puts four times the power through the chain?

 

[vfr400]

I think chain and cassette wear is also affected by rider weight and environment, irrespective of e powered or manual.
To get 2000 miles from a chain I'd have to lose a few kilos and move to Holland!
I replace the chain when gear changes become less than silky smooth, new cassette every 2 or 3 chains.

I'm no expert, but I was wondering whether it t might be something to do with having a crank-motor.

 

[sjpt]

Crank motor ebikes get through chains much faster than regular bikes. Hub ebikes have slightly less chain wear than a regular bike.

 

[D C]

I'm no expert, but I was wondering whether it t might be something to do with having a crank-motor.

I have rear hub motor as well and have used manual bikes for many years, I could get more miles but like my bikes to work nicely.

 

[The Bear]

Not cheap though having to change cassette every two chains. 11 speed cassettes for my bike cost around £60 - £70, and chains around £20.