Need help with replacement battery for Green Edge bike

[Pendragon]

Hello,

I have a green edge bike bought a few years ago which I can no longer use due to the battery suddenly dying on me.

I've been looking on the internet for a replacement, but aside from the "official one" that costs 399 pounds and is out of stock anyway, I haven't been able to find any other with "5 pins", which is what my bike came with "new style":


Does anybody know where I can find a battery for sale that will fit or if it's safe to buy a different battery that includes a new bracket as I am worried it might not be compatible with the controller/cables the bike originally comes with?

Any tips from Green edge bike owners/ex owners?

Thanks!

 

[Raboa]

Getting your battery recelled is an option.

Send details and photos of your battery to info@ebikebatteries.co.uk

Good reputation on here.

 

[vfr400]

If it comes off sideways, it's probably this one:

36V10Ah/11.6Ah/14Ah New Bottle Battery Pack Color Silver Display No Display Cells / Capacity 2.5AH High C-Rate / 10AH Controller Without Controller

Bottle ebike panasonic NCR18650PF battery pack 36V11.6Ah included a EMC-120 charger, a S06P 250W square wave controller and a S-LCD display meter. It is also...

bmsbattery.com

That type is difficult to re-cell because the construction. I wouln't bother going down that route. if you could find someone to do it, it'll be expensive.

You can use any battery you want, but yours has the controller in the base, which means you'd have to find a way round that. You could take it out and put it in a tool-bag. or you could use a conventional controller that would add from £40 to £75 to the overall cost. That would give the option to go up to 48v if you want more power, plus it would give you other options, like choice of max speed, throttle and LCD.

 

[Pendragon]

Thank you both for the replies.

@vfr400 : What would you do? I am not really up to date with prices, I wouldn't mind an upgrade, but I am worried mainly about the DIY part.
Is it something easy for anyone to replace battery and controller?
If so, what would you recommend?
I am also assuming the LCD I've got equipped would be compatible? (I seem to remember reading on the manual that came with the bike that it would support batteries of 24v-48v but I've unfortunately lost after moving to my new place).

Thanks!

 

[vfr400]

Thank you both for the replies.

@vfr400 : What would you do? I am not really up to date with prices, I wouldn't mind an upgrade, but I am worried mainly about the DIY part.
Is it something easy for anyone to replace battery and controller?
If so, what would you recommend?
I am also assuming the LCD I've got equipped would be compatible? (I seem to remember reading on the manual that came with the bike that it would support batteries of 24v-48v but I've unfortunately lost after moving to my new place).

Thanks!

Everything is easy when you know how. A new controller would require a bit of soldering and wiring.

What to do depends on what you want to achieve.

 

[Pendragon]

Well during the time I've had this bike, I realised that it helps a lot but struggles on steep hills, and the battery wouldn't last any longer trip that Ideally I'd like to start making.
An upgrade is definitely something I'd like, and if it was just about the battery lasting longer, I suppose a simple upgrade in the ah would do.
Would 48v be a big enough upgrade in performance with the same engine? That's something I have no idea of.
Ps: I've never soldered anything in my life before, I suppose anything can be learned with tutorials, but I guess my question is whether or not it's "beginner" level soldering or more of an "advanced" level kind of thing.

Ps2: the battery on your link definitely seem to be the same, as it does come off sideways and it's got a 5 pin discharge, I am just wondering if you have ever used that website before and it's reliable?
Shipping seems to cost 100 pounds!

 

[vfr400]

48v with a 15 amp controller wwould be about right for the motor. You'd get 30% more torque for hill-climbing and a cruising speed of about 20 mph if you pedal comfortably hard. You can buy a plug-and-play system from BMSBattery, where the controller is in the battery base. That would cost about £500 for mthe 48v 14Ah kit by the time you've paid for the shipping and duty.

48V10Ah/11.6Ah/14Ah Bottle-09 E-Bike Battery & Charger Color Black Inner Controller With Cells / Capacity SAMSUNG 3.5AH / 14AH

New design bottle-09 e-bike battery pack 36V10Ah included a S180 charger.

bmsbattery.com

You can get a normal controller kit and cheaper 48v battery from Topbikekit for about £350. That would just require soldering the battery wires, and you'd have to put the controller in an under-saddle toolbag, like I have.

Soldering battery wires is dead easy. You get a 60w soldering iron and some 60/40 tin lead solder.

• Cut the insulation back about 5mm on each wire
• Slide a bit of heatshrink up one side out of the way. Push it up out of the way so it doesn't get hot
• Push one wire into the other, so that they mesh
• Melt a bit of solder onto the iron's tip, then put the tip on the bare wiresfor about 5 seconds to heat them up, then feed in the solder, which will melt into the wires
• When the wires are full, stop feeding, wait a couple of seconds, then remove the iron
• If there are any blobs or if the joint is too wide, crimp it down with a pair of pliers
• Slide the heatshrink over the join and shrink it using a hot-air gun, cigarette lighter or the shaft of the soldering iron.

Alternative method, which is preferable for small wires and OK for what you need regarding the battery wires, though not as good for high current applications:

• Cut back 5mm of insulation
• Put a bit of solder on the iron's tip
• Put the tip on the wire for a few seconds, then feed in the solder until the wire is full.
• Stop feeding, then remove the iron after a couple of seconds
• Do the same to the other wire.
• Hold one soldered end over the other to make an overlap, then heatup with the tip of the iron until they fuse together

 

[Pendragon]

@vfr400 Thanks so much for the detailed guide.
Guess if the soldering part is that easy, I might as well just go for a different battery.
Ideally from a website that doesn't have insane shipping/custom costs!
I've got a lot to research into for this week end!