My other motor may be faulty part 2

[aardvark5]

I don't have a lot of luck with my bikes, it seems to be constant money.
Anyway going on from this thread in 2019 which was a 26" motor I have now got the same problem with my 700c motor - https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/my-motor-may-be-faulty-advice-please.35886/

I was riding home on the flat (actually going through a gate, and it just stopped showing an 03 error - “Abnormal hall signal from motor” .

I had the 03 error with my MTB about 3 months ago but it was just a loose connector.

However I'm lucky to be able to try my motor on another bike and it doesn't work on that so it isn't a loose cable.

A video if it helps because I was asked last time to spin the wheel forwards and backwards.
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Any advice appreciated before I get ripped off for another front motor.
If anybody knows where I can buy just a 700c motor and nothing else I might save a few quid.

Thanks

 

[Andy-Mat]

I don't have a lot of luck with my bikes, it seems to be constant money.
Anyway going on from this thread in 2019 which was a 26" motor I have now got the same problem with my 700c motor - https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/my-motor-may-be-faulty-advice-please.35886/

I was riding home on the flat (actually going through a gate, and it just stopped showing an 03 error - “Abnormal hall signal from motor” .

I had the 03 error with my MTB about 3 months ago but it was just a loose connector.

However I'm lucky to be able to try my motor on another bike and it doesn't work on that so it isn't a loose cable.

A video if it helps because I was asked last time to spin the wheel forwards and backwards.
-

Any advice appreciated before I get ripped off for another front motor.
If anybody knows where I can buy just a 700c motor and nothing else I might save a few quid.

Thanks

IMHO its most likely to be inside the motor, as you have generally thin wires to the hall effect sensors and thicker ones supply the 3 phases of the motor with power.
I personally would not recommend you opening the motor yourself, assuming you are not fully trained in DC motors!
There are some very cheap e-bike motor testers, that will test the hall effects in the motor, the motor fields , without the need to open up the motor (Till you know what the problem is!), but if you do have an internal problem, you need to have all the right tools and to know exactly how to use them, if and when an internal fault is detected....
The testers that I have seen, generally use a 9 volt block cell to drive them, not the actual bike battery.
The testers usually cost around 10 UK Pounds on ebay (pick a supplier that is in the UK, with a short delivery time!). And here is one of the many YouTube videos on how to use them:-

The worst problem is that some motors use different connectors to that of the tester, so you may need to extend the wiring with some form of test clip(s), or change the connector to the one needed (assuming that it is available somewhere!)....
Best of luck.
Andy

 

[StuartsProjects]

The worst problem is that some motors use different connectors to that of the tester, so you may need to extend the wiring with some form of test clip(s), or change the connector to the one needed (assuming that it is available somewhere!)....

Which makes those testers a little bit difficult.

If you need to make up a patch lead to connect the tester to the motor, how would you know if the patch lead is at fault or the motor is ?

Or are there adapter leads that are known to work ?

 

[aardvark5]

It looks like I'll just get a new motor, like I say it would be good if I could just get the motor and not the kit.

I forgot to mention that the 26" motor I took off in 2019 and didn't throw away actually worked !!!
No idea if it would continue to work though but I hadn't thrown it away so tested it.

 

[Nealh]

Carefully look at the cable where it enters the hub, wires can easily be damaged at this point or a Hall sensor has failed. Halls are very easy to check with a basic meter, esp if you have block connectors like SM ones.

 

[aardvark5]

How do I get into my motor, I can't see any way to do it?

 

[vfr400]

You need a hot air gun and a special tool. Heat up the hub between the spokes until it's just too hot to touch, then unscrew the side-plate that's facing upwards on the RH motor in your photo. If you don't have the tool, you can get it off by whacking an M5 cap screw. Draw a pencil line across the join. After heating up, place the cap of the cap screw in one of the dimples. Whack it with a big hammer and drift. Check the pencil line to see if something moved. Repeat until the lines are separated by about 2cm, then you should be able to unscrew by hand.

Alternatively, you can make a tool out of strong plywood with three M5 cap screws bolted to it to match the positions of the dimples.

 

[Nealh]

A tri keyed spanner, it would sit in the three indents visible on the surface of the first pic.

 

[aardvark5]

I've got it all unscrewed but I'll be buggered if I can get it completely off.
The cover turns on this point but it won't pull off over it.
Any idea what might be holding it?

 

[vfr400]

Make sure that there's no nut on the other end of the axle, then tap the axle through with a big mallet. Once you have the whole core out, you can rest the side-plate on blocks abd tap the core out with a mallet on that end of the axle.

 

[aardvark5]

Make sure that there's no nut on the other end of the axle, then tap the axle through with a big mallet. Once you have the whole core out, you can rest the side-plate on blocks abd tap the core out with a mallet on that end of the axle.

I did take the nut off the other side but didn't hit it with a mallet - I'll try later.

 

[aardvark5]

My new parts have come, to be honest since I've got two eBikes I don't mind all the extra parts -