Motor hall anomaly only on Hard accelerate

[Thefastest]

Hello i got a e scooter 600w i did shunt mod on its controller first week it was ok. but yesterday suddenly i got e16 error (motor hall anomaly when hit throttle Hard on start. Otherwise there is no problem if i accelerate slowly everything perfect if i Over 20kph of speed when hit throttle no problem i check every cable and 3 hall sensors there is no problem. All sensors are normal. İ suspect from the motors coils/stator because this problem starts vith overheating. İ rewind the motor with a little thicker 0.9mm wire (orginally 0.8) and the problem became worst. A little Kick on throttle gets the error. Restarting scooter delete the error. i can speed Up slowly but whenever i need power it stops and the message on bt app "motor hall anomaly "
Any idea would help thanks.

 

[saneagle]

Try putting a large 50v (if 36v battery) or higher capacitor across the battery wires. For 48v battery, 63v or higher capacitor. 470 mfd or more.

 

[Thefastest]

Thanks for the reply. Do you think battery is the problem here? i can feed controller with 2 battery for testing it.
I have a question When i play with the shunt wire and increase the power of the motor, the magnetic field increases too. Could this magnetic field be disturbing the reading of the hall sensor?

Try putting a large 50v (if 36v battery) or higher capacitor across the battery wires. For 48v battery, 63v or higher capacitor. 470 mfd or more.

 

[saneagle]

Thanks for the reply. Do you think battery is the problem here? i can feed controller with 2 battery for testing it.
I have a question When i play with the shunt wire and increase the power of the motor, the magnetic field increases too. Could this magnetic field be disturbing the reading of the hall sensor?

Every controller has capacitors in them across the battery wires. Their purpose is to to provide the instant current needed for each pulse the controller sends to the motor. It's just a theory that if you step up the current, the capacitors might not be big enough for that, so the square waves are no longer squuare and your motor misfires. It might nor work, but worth a try.

I don't think it's the battery because the battery cuts out completely if you try to draw too much caurrent from it.

 

[Thefastest]

Ok i will try it tomorrow thanks

 

[Thefastest]

Every controller has capacitors in them across the battery wires. Their purpose is to to provide the instant current needed for each pulse the controller sends to the motor. It's just a theory that if you step up the current, the capacitors might not be big enough for that, so the square waves are no longer squuare and your motor misfires. It might nor work, but worth a try.

I don't think it's the battery because the battery cuts out completely if you try to draw too much caurrent from it.

İ tried 1000uf 63v capacitor no change at all. should i change the capacitor inside of the controller? Has 3 of 470uf 100v capacitor i can change all of them to 63v 1000uf.

 

[saneagle]

No, I don't think you can do any more with capacitors. it was just an idea. Your controller already has about the biggest capacitors I've seen in one that size. Just one thought: You did connect the 63v 1000uf one the correct way round?

I'm out of ideas now. I don't think it's a hall problem because it runs OK at low power. Power doesn't affect the halls. They're on an independent circuit.

 

[Thefastest]

Yes i did connect with this cable i made. firstly connect to battery. hearda little spark so its filled. i will re check hall sensor cables and sockets :/

 

[saneagle]

Yes i did connect with this cable i made. firstly connect to battery. hearda little spark so its filled. i will re check hall sensor cables and sockets :/

Now that I think about it, the cap would have popped if you had it the wrong way. I feel stupid now.

yes, the only things i can think of are a damaged cable or a dodgy MOSFET, but it might just be a crappy controller. It might be worth trying another one if you can afford it.

 

[Thefastest]

Dont feel like that people doing weird things you are right to suspicious I would like to change. But all the controls and brake sensors at hand enter the screen and communicate with the controller with only 4 wires from the screen. 5v rx tx gnd. I can't find a controller like this. I have to buy it as a set. İts xbot, lebitec manufactured controller. Btw , I strengthened the sockets and 1-2mm outer positioning the sensor cables from the coils in the motor. There is no hall error at the moment, but small misfires continue in sudden departures.

 

[afzal]

Low speed & high load on the motor means phase current will be the maximum. Since hall & phase cables run close, there is a probability of the high phase current inducing noise in hall cables (not saying that it is indeed the problem here, but is a possibility)

If the above is the reason, then separating hall cables from phase wire where they run together from motor to controller can reduce the problem. Another option is to provide magnetic shielding to hall wires. But practically it might be difficult, further it would not be possible to separate till they come out of the motor.

Some controllers do hall signal filtering in hardware and/or software to deal with the issue

 

[Thefastest]

found the problem. my magnets are small than the other. they have 1 or 1.5mm thickness. when the motor heats up my hall sensor must be damaged. orginal sensor is ah41 normally its need 30 gauss to change their situation. i change them 41f and its need to 40 gauss change their situation. when i hit the throttle hard inducing noise caused false dedection must cause the problem. so i sanded the sensors top side and put some thickness the bottom. brought new sensors closer to the magnet . and problem is gone.