Motor connection

[bloggs]

Hi, does anyone know where I can get Julet 9 pin connectors only without the cable?
Its for the 3 phases plus 6 pins for hall's and temp sensor.

 

[saneagle]

Hi, does anyone know where I can get Julet 9 pin connectors only without the cable?
Its for the 3 phases plus 6 pins for hall's and temp sensor.

Easier to get an extension cable, cut the connectors off and solder the wires. It would be quite tricky to solder the wires to the pins, and I can't see it lasting like a moulded one.

 

[bloggs]

Easier to get an extension cable, cut the connectors off and solder the wires. It would be quite tricky to solder the wires to the pins, and I can't see it lasting like a moulded one.

Thanks for the reply. The problem is that if cut the moulded connectors off and soldered my motor cable to it, it would then no longer be waterproof.
Looking like I will have to dismantle the motor and fit a new Julet cable to it.
Thanks.

 

[saneagle]

Thanks for the reply. The problem is that if cut the moulded connectors off and soldered my motor cable to it, it would then no longer be waterproof.
Looking like I will have to dismantle the motor and fit a new Julet cable to it.
Thanks.

It'll be waterproof if you waterproof it. I can't see any problem.

 

[tonyw]

Yeah, heatshrink over the connections.

 

[bloggs]

It'll be waterproof if you waterproof it. I can't see any problem.

 

[bloggs]

Yeah, heatshrink over the connections.

Thanks for that. I was thinking along the lines of what you said, using heat shrink, ie: heat shrinking each individual wire then one larger piece of heat shrink over the whole lot. I think heat shrink is brilliant stuff but in my experience of using heat shrink it doesn't necessarily make wires water tight. I have found in the past that water/moisture can still find its way between the heat shrink and wires due to capillary action. It could all end up more trouble than its worth. Heat shrink doesn't actually bond itself to the cable, where as a moulded connector does.
So, back to my original question, "Hi, does anyone know where I can get Julet 9 pin connectors only without the cable?"

 

[Deleted member 16246]

I have found in the past that water/moisture can still find its way between the heat shrink and wires due to capillary action. It could all end up more trouble than its worth. Heat shrink doesn't actually bond itself to the cable, where as a moulded connector does.

Solder, heatshrink and self amalgamating tape on top should do all you need.

 

[Cisco-man]

I’m pretty sure Julets were never designed to have a diy option. I can recommend a squirt of a good silicon sealer (or adhesive) around the splice before shrink-sleeving it and leaving it to set. You can actually buy shrink-sleeve with built-in gunge that does make a waterproof seal with rubber.

 

[saneagle]

I’m pretty sure Julets were never designed to have a diy option. I can recommend a squirt of a good silicon sealer (or adhesive) around the splice before shrink-sleeving it and leaving it to set. You can actually buy shrink-sleeve with built-in gunge that does make a waterproof seal with rubber.

Heatshrink individual wires only, then cover the whole lot in SRV and shrink large heatshrink over the whole cable and clean off any excess before it sets, otherwise you have a right mess.

Much easier, though, use adhesive heatshrink!

127Pcs Glue Weatherproof Heat Shrink Sleeving Tubing Tube Assortment Kit Zg G HO | eBay

Type:H eat Shrinkable Tube. Color：Black. (16pcs) 0.77cm x 8cm/0.3in 3.16in. ( 20pcs) 0.5 cmx 4cm/0.2in 1.6in. (20pcs) 0.35cm x 4cm/0.13in 1.6in. (25pcs) 0.25cm x 4cm/0.09in 1.6in.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[bloggs]

Thanks everybody for all your replies.

 

[guerney]

I use marine heat shrink + self-amagamating rubber tape, to be sure. The glue could become loosened with movement or break down with heat/cool cycles, or exposure to UV light, be degraded by oil or something. I use 4:1 marine heat shrink, because you can get it over large connectors. If even 4:1 doesn't shrink enough, you can use smaller progressively diameters. until it adheres to the cable. Marine shrink sets into shape upon cooling, which can also be useful. I expect one could form works of art of zero interest. The combination has done a great job of keeping water out for over three years, despite complete immersion for 13 seconds once, but to be even more sure, I'm considering covering those connections with spray-on or paint-on electrical insulation. Dunno if anyone here has tried these products:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Insulating-Tape-Spray-Electrical-170ml/dp/B0029T3FXY

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plasti-Dip-Electrical-American-Original/dp/B00NNSZS08/

 

[bloggs]

I use marine heat shrink + self-amagamating rubber tape, to be sure. The glue could become loosened with movement or break down with heat/cool cycles, or exposure to UV light, be degraded by oil or something. I use 4:1 marine heat shrink, because you can get it over large connectors. If even 4:1 doesn't shrink enough, you can use smaller progressively diameters. until it adheres to the cable. Marine shrink sets into shape upon cooling, which can also be useful. I expect one could form works of art of zero interest. The combination has done a great job of keeping water out for over three years, despite complete immersion for 13 seconds once, but to be even more sure, I'm considering covering those connections with spray-on or paint-on electrical insulation. Dunno if anyone here has tried these products:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Insulating-Tape-Spray-Electrical-170ml/dp/B0029T3FXY

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plasti-Dip-Electrical-American-Original/dp/B00NNSZS08/

Thats great information. I will definitely look into this. Thanks for all the info.

 

[bloggs]

Thats great information. I will definitely look into this. Thanks for all the info.

Just looked at the products you mentioned. I will be purchasing the marine grade heat shrink and also the aerosol electrical tape.
Thanks for the info.