marathon plus tyre untrue

Hello all,

I noticed that every time i install a marathon plus tyre, my wheel becomes untrue. I tried few times to remove the tyre and see if there is a bad tube fitting but I can't really find any.

I tru-ed the rim first to make sure it's not a problem with a bend rim, when I install the tyre afterwards it gives this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_T5y6U_-Is

You can see a little gap on each wheel revolution near the valve...

Here's the wheel from far:

You can also see the reflective strip slightly lower near the valve...

What is wrong with the wheel? Is it because I installed a 26x2.00 tyre on a narrow rim? I can't fix the problem and I have this issue with all my marathon tyres...

Shall I pop to the bike shop or will they also be useless as usual?

Thank you

I noticed the same when I fitted the same tyres to my previous bike.

I just reckon the Marathon Plus tyres have a thicker and sturdier bead than most, which causes the slight raise around the valve area.

As long as they are seated ok and you haven't pinched the inner tube between the bead and the rim, then I wouldn't worry about it.

Another tip that sometimes works for me is to over pump it i.e. increase the limit pressure by about 20-30psi and it often then enables the bead to pop in and seat better. Obviously take it back down to your preffered pressure setting when done

Ps always seat the valve side first.

Jerry

Edited October 26, 201510 yr by jerrysimon

Another tip that sometimes works for me is to over pump it i.e. increase the limit pressure by about 20-30psi and it often then enables the bead to pop in and seat better. Obviously take it back down to your preffered pressure setting when done

 

Ps always seat the valve side first.

 

Jerry

This has been discussed before in a previous thread, when putting the new tyre on do not tighten the innertube valve to the rim, but partially inflate the tube so it does not get trapped whilst fitting the tyre, then push the valve into the rim so that the valve seating rubber does not get trapped by the tyre bead, and flex the tyre at the same time to make sure the valve is fully free. Then inflate to operating pressure and screw down the valve body anchor screw to he rim, this should ensure that the valve base rubber is not trapped by the tyre bead

This has been discussed before in a previous thread, when putting the new tyre on do not tighten the innertube valve to the rim, but partially inflate the tube so it does not get trapped whilst fitting the tyre, then push the valve into the rim so that the valve seating rubber does not get trapped by the tyre bead, and flex the tyre at the same time to make sure the valve is fully free. Then inflate to operating pressure and screw down the valve body anchor screw to he rim, this should ensure that the valve base rubber is not trapped by the tyre bead

Thank you. I was thinking to follow this recommendation:

"To install the second bead, always start opposite the valve and position the bead in the rim bed. Make sure the bead is working into the drop centre of the rim to ease mounting. Finish the tyre mounting at the valve.

Note: Starting at the valve inhibits the bead from falling into the drop centre when finishing mounting, making the job more difficult. Ending at the valve eliminates this issue. This is even more of an issue on t ubeless tyres due to the larger sealing head of a tubeless valve.

6. While keeping hold of the valve, push the valve into the rim and pull back to unseat the tube from under the bead in the valve area.

7. Check around the rim and tyre to make sure the tube is not pinched between the bead and the rim. If the tube is pinched, work the tyre with your fingers to dislodge the pinched tube or remount more carefully. "

http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=23567&start=75

They recommend to set the valve at the end but you suggest to do it at the start

Which way is the best?

Thank you

6. While keeping hold of the valve, push the valve into the rim and pull back to unseat the tube from under the bead in the valve area.

7. Check around the rim and tyre to make sure the tube is not pinched between the bead and the rim. If the tube is pinched, work the tyre with your fingers to dislodge the pinched tube or remount more carefully. "

http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=23567&start=75

Its para 6 and 7 above that really count. More succinctly put than me, but the same advice and technique. Start where you like, their advice is excellent.

I cannot believe that we have created a thread about how to fit a tyre on to a bicycle wheel.

Tom

I cannot believe that we have created a thread about how to fit a tyre on to a bicycle wheel.

 

Tom

well its better than a thread on fitting a condom to a banana!

I cannot believe that we have created a thread about how to fit a tyre on to a bicycle wheel.

 

Tom

I'm glad someone has created it.

Electric bikes are my first real foray into cycling and I don't have even basic knowledge like this.

I will get myself a book but forums can give useful insight from experienced people

I'm glad someone has created it.

Electric bikes are my first real foray into cycling and I don't have even basic knowledge like this.

I will get myself a book but forums can give useful insight from experienced people

Ok Damian, clearly it's impossible to legislate for everyone but save yourself some money if you're thinking of buying a book.

First, if you have access to a library, almost certainly there will be books about bike maintenance but as you obviously have access to a computer, you can search for just about anything imaginable.

This link, for example has endless video descriptions of tyre fitting:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=fitting+a+tyre+to+a+bicycle+wheel

Tom

I kept trying and pushed then pulled back the valve to make sure nothing goes against the bead.

Then pumped it up and it didn't work.

Bear in mind the marathon plus tyre are very hard work to fit so it's complex to do.

I made sure the valve went to the bottom:

Then pumped it again and still have the same problem.

I changed to another brand of tube... same process... pumped it and same problem.

I removed again the tyre and checked the valve maximum depth:

There is no much more I can do, it's already the maximum.

Here's the picture of the hole:

I changed the rim rubber tape to change it to another tape to see if rubber tape was causing this issue...

Still no difference.

Any idea what's wrong? Is it manufacturer defect or what?

Thank you

Edited October 30, 201510 yr by VictoryV

Also I have never seen a rim where the valve hole is virtually the rim width, there is very little room for the tyre bead between the valve and the rim wall.

Wrong valve type for that hole.

how wide is your rim? if you fit wide tyres, you need wide rims otherwise the bead won't fit properly. Also, Schrader type valve seems to cause less problem.

Trex, I really can't understand why this poster cannot work out for himself what is causing his problem. He is an inveterate bike tinkerer yet can't even manage to fit a tyre on to a wheel properly - most odd!

I suspect that you may have hit the nail on the head with your comment about sizing. While there may be sufficient tolerance with many rims to allow the fitment of oversized tyres, that tolerance is less on narrow rims. Clearly, his decision to fit a replacement tube with presta valve into a rim designed for larger diameter valves was wrong. I am therefore inclined to believe that his choice of tyre size may also be a mistake but perhaps he would like to inform readers of the make and size of rim plus the recommended tyre size for that rim.

Moreover, he seems to have a dim view of bike shops but one thing most cycle mechanics are pretty adept at is the removal and fitting of tyres and tubes so I recommend he visits one.

As something of an aside, I have read on more than one occasion that some people have struggled to fit Schwalbe MPs on to their rims. Having fitted and removed MPs several times on different bike wheels, I have never yet encountered any real difficulty, always managing to fit the tyres using thumbs and fingers without the need for levers. Certainly, the tough beads and protective layer of the tyre mean that MPs are less easy to manipulate than some other tyres but so long as the tyre is within the specified range for the rim, it shouldn't prove overly difficult.

Rims can be cheap or expensive but by and large, the higher-end models are generally made from decent material and are accurately constructed. When pre-made into wheels with good quality parts, they give very little trouble.

Tom

Cwah, As VV says you have too much valve showing. push that valve into the tyre until it touches the inside of the tread, hold it there and push the beads over the valve 'lump' on the tube.

Pity that you don't live closer to me or I could pop round and give you a good slap.

Guys, I had a last try and didn't push the valve that far, moved it up and down and then pump it again.... and it still had a hump although not exactly on the valve area...

My rear tyre also had the same issue.... .....

I finally decided to go to halford, showed them the bike with the wobble to the service centre.

They asked me if it has been near a radiator because heat may change tyre shape... and because I had these tyres for months already.. and that I moved few times.... it would have absolutely been possible.

So they are charging me £18 (£9 per wheel) for a diagnostic.... they'll call me when it's done...

Wait and see.......

Got a call back from the technician from Halfords.... he tried to fit the tyre and it was wobbly again so he called me to pick it back!

It's like he did nothing!!! He said it may need thinner tyres as my ones are 26 x 2.00 with a 26 x 1.75 rim....

Then I asked them to change to another marathon tyre to see if it would work better... it was obviously out of stock and it would cost £31 per tyre.

I told them I could get them for £20 from bike24 and they said it's a german site so they can't do price match....

I'm considering changing rim... or maybe order 26 x 1.75 tyres? But what would I do with the un-used 26 x 2.00 tyres??

Got a call back from the technician from Halfords.... he tried to fit the tyre and it was wobbly again so he called me to pick it back!

 

It's like he did nothing!!! He said it may need thinner tyres as my ones are 26 x 2.00 with a 26 x 1.75 rim....

 

Then I asked them to change to another marathon tyre to see if it would work better... it was obviously out of stock and it would cost £31 per tyre.

 

I told them I could get them for £20 from bike24 and they said it's a german site so they can't do price match....

 

I'm considering changing rim... or maybe order 26 x 1.75 tyres? But what would I do with the un-used 26 x 2.00 tyres??

Change the rims to match your existing tyres then you would benefit from their performance