KTM Macina Lycon - Rear suspension

[bigclick]

So I am putting on a new front cog, chain and cassette and I notice that I have been riding with a loose 10nm tourque nut in the rear suspension.

It is from the short rocker, about 200mm long, that pivots on the big tube from the seat to the bottom bracket.

I tightened it up but I notice now if I lift the back of the bike off the ground for a second or two and pop it back on the ground there is a "clicky" noise. A closer inspection shows there is some play in the same bush that I tightened.

Question (s)

• Is a bit of play normal?
• Would I have damaged the housing or the bush or both?
• How easy is to get a new bush?
• If the housing is damaged what can I do?

Was hoping to get back on the road this weekend :-(

 

[KTM Bike Industries UK]

So I am putting on a new front cog, chain and cassette and I notice that I have been riding with a loose 10nm tourque nut in the rear suspension.

It is from the short rocker, about 200mm long, that pivots on the big tube from the seat to the bottom bracket.

I tightened it up but I notice now if I lift the back of the bike off the ground for a second or two and pop it back on the ground there is a "clicky" noise. A closer inspection shows there is some play in the same bush that I tightened.

Question (s)

• Is a bit of play normal?
• Would I have damaged the housing or the bush or both?
• How easy is to get a new bush?
• If the housing is damaged what can I do?

Was hoping to get back on the road this weekend :-(

There aren't any bushings in the back of a KTM, they are all bearings.

Its possible you've crushed the bearing, best thing is to take it apart and have a look. If you take the bolts out of both sides it should swing apart.

 

[KTM Bike Industries UK]

So I am putting on a new front cog, chain and cassette and I notice that I have been riding with a loose 10nm tourque nut in the rear suspension.

It is from the short rocker, about 200mm long, that pivots on the big tube from the seat to the bottom bracket.

I tightened it up but I notice now if I lift the back of the bike off the ground for a second or two and pop it back on the ground there is a "clicky" noise. A closer inspection shows there is some play in the same bush that I tightened.

Question (s)

• Is a bit of play normal?
• Would I have damaged the housing or the bush or both?
• How easy is to get a new bush?
• If the housing is damaged what can I do?

Was hoping to get back on the road this weekend :-(

Actually, you're best of asking on here: http://www.flidistribution.co.uk/

That way we can live chat with you.

 

[bigclick]

I just took out the nuts and all four races were mangled and the rocker arm housing has been elongated :-(

I tried to get the bloody thing serviced in Spring but the shop I got it from dont do servicing until November. Thought I was ok until then :-(

I will have a chat to FLI now

Seriously dissapointed I hadnt spotted it as it was coming loose :-(


All the others look and feel fine. How long are they meant to last generaly?

 

[KTM Bike Industries UK]

How long are they meant to last generaly?

As with anything on a bike, they can last for anything between 30 seconds and about 100 years, depending on what you're doing with them.

 

[bigclick]

I spoke to a knowledgeable chap at FLI. Thank you mate, very helpfull and improved my mood tremendously.

He advised me of the part number for the specific bearing I need to avoid buying a full kit.

He also mentioned I should consider high impact bearings. This reminded me of a realy bad landing (high impact) I suffered when I first had the bike. It was a really heavy landing resulting in a punctured wheel and a bent seat post. I wonder if that heavy landing contributed to the eventual destruction of the bearings?

So I have ordered 4 SKS bearings pre 10:00 AM from Simply Bearings in Manchester. They cost over half as much as a complete pivot kit but they are high impact so will withstand more punishment, well thats the plan.

 

[bigclick]

New Bearings arrived.
Managed to get the two front outer races extracted but the ones at the back are up against a step so nothing to hit with a blunt screw driver.

Before I cut a slot in the thing I was hoping someone might have an idea on how to extract them? The rocker arm is all angles and curves so nothing flat to clamp on with any force

 

[EddiePJ]

Sadly I'm not sure which bearings that you are struggling with, but mine have always pressed out with no issue.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

With a bearing extractor:

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=bearing+extractor&rlz=1C1CHZL_enGB733GB733&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwijs8jH2-DVAhXrAcAKHfQtCUgQ_AUICygC&biw=1707&bih=831#imgrc=_

 

[KTM Bike Industries UK]

Its not the full bearing he's trying to get out, so the extractor won't work.

He's collapsed the bearing, so its just the outer race that is left pressed in.

So the only ways to get it out are

1) cut a slot in the back of the rocker, the step doesn't need to be complete to do its job. You can then tap the outer race with a blunt screw driver to remove it.

2) get at it with a dremel or similar and try to cut a slot in the race so you can spit it and pull it out that way.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

An expanding extractor will grip it enough to get it out very easily. The mandrel lip will expand and grip in the groove where the balls roll, then you tap it out with the slide-hammer:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inner-Bearing-Puller-Set-Remover-Slide-Hammer-Internal-Kit-8-32mm-9pc-Blind-UK/292196791114?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=45566&meid=d61a611409204a7993721467359ff6be&pid=100005&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=331949020213&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Another way is use a hot air gun to heat up whatever it's in. Aluminium expands more than steel, so it may even just drop out.

 

[KTM Bike Industries UK]

An expanding extractor will grip it enough to get it out. Another way is use a hot air gun to heat up whatever it's in. Aluminium expands more than steel, so it may even just drop out.

honestly cutting a slot in it is the easiest way, it takes seconds to do and will mean you can get bearings out easily forever more. The new models have slots already cut in them at the factory.

 

[bigclick]

Sadly I'm not sure which bearings that you are struggling with, but mine have always pressed out with no issue.

Mine were smashed apart from the outer races and I couldn't get a decent purchase with the press because the rocker hasn't got any parallel faces to hold in a vice while pressing.

I used a diamond file and split the races. was easy to knock out then.

 

[EddiePJ]

Glad that you are all sorted.

I think that I know which bearing that you mean, the main pivot bearing itself?
I really can't remember what I used the very first time of removal. I'm sure that I removed the rocker assembly, placed the assembly onto a profile of wood, then used a drift to punch the bearing forward a fraction of a millimetre at a time. The idea of the slot sounds perfect.

 

[bigclick]

Glad that you are all sorted.

I think that I know which bearing that you mean, the main pivot bearing itself?
I really can't remember what I used the very first time of removal. I'm sure that I removed the rocker assembly, placed the assembly onto a profile of wood, then used a drift to punch the bearing forward a fraction of a millimetre at a time. The idea of the slot sounds perfect.

The slot idea was passed on to me by Colin from FLI. Big up to him for advising me to get the bearings and not just purchase a pivot kit.

Obviously care needs to be taken to avoid removing any more material than is nescessary.

So anyway its all back and working now just waiting for my new Conex chain ring. Its coming from Germany already been a week and still not here yet :-(

 

[Rick Bullotta]

My KTM had a similar issue. I assumed it was the linkage pivots, but after further inspection it turned out to be the threaded insert that receives the rear axle. That had come loose. Tightened that down, no more movement or slop. Be sure to check that also.