KT LCD3 display & battery

[UrbanPuma]

Hi all,

I finally got the bike hooked up 4 days ago with no error codes and had some low readings from the motor and slight jerky movements when I tried walk-assist and minimal throttle (still no wheel spinning though ). However, today LCD3 display shows battery has 28 volts, but no bars on the battery icon. Does this mean there is a problem with the battery and is it safe to charge?

Pics attached

 

[Nealh]

Is this for 24v ?

Check the motor cable connector is pushed up to the indicated line on the male part on motor side .

 

[UrbanPuma]

Is this for 24v ?

Check the motor cable connector is pushed up to the indicated line on the male part on motor side .

Yes, 24v Nealh. I have the hall and phase wires connected with crocodile clips. I swapped with lcd5 display and then spare controller and both worked correctly, with battery icon reading full as it should. Wonder why the other controller stopped giving proper reading.

 

[Nealh]

28 volts is 4v per cell group.

If the lcd3 might be thinking it is a36v battery so 28v reads as empty, hence no battery bars. A 36v lcd setting wil have a lvc of approx. 30 or 31v.

Try changing the P5 value to 10 or less.

 

[Nealh]

Charge the battery fully to 29.4v and then see if the display reads correctly.

 

[UrbanPuma]

Charge the battery fully to 29.4v and then see if the display reads correctly.

Ok, I'll do this and change P5 settings. Just want to add it's a geared hub motor. Thanks

 

[UrbanPuma]

Charge the battery fully to 29.4v and then see if the display reads correctly.

Nealh, I swapped the controller with a spare and now it's reading normally. I still can't get the wheel to spin though :/ could it be because the motor doesn't have a speed sensor or do I need to install a compatible PAS sensor?

 

[Nealh]

Spd sensor make no difference.
Swapped controller kt for kt ?
It should work on walk assist mode , hold and press the down pad.

 

[UrbanPuma]

Spd sensor make no difference.
Swapped controller kt for kt ?
It should work on walk assist mode , hold and press the down pad.

Yes, I swapped with identical 24v sine wave sensored KT controller (it's a spare). I tried walk assist mode and throttle, yet wheel does not spin. It makes slight noise and jerky movement as it attempts to start but nothing happens. I do get motor readings when doing this though, just the back wheel won't spin. I'm at a loss now. What could be stopping this working?

My motor is either 180 or 200w, geared DC brushless with permanent magnets. RPM = 235, if this helps at all.

 

[Nealh]

The fact you are using temporary connections via crocodile clips may be producing poor contact/current flow to the motor.

 

[UrbanPuma]

The fact you are using temporary connections via crocodile clips may be producing poor contact/current flow to the motor.

Yes, I think the problem is a connection Issue. I was getting the 03 error code with the connector, so tried the clips and have made some headway, but will take to a shop now to get connectors fitted and hopefully bike working - fingers crossed. Thanks for your help Nealh.

 

[Nealh]

Use the screw type electrical block connectors 15a or 30a , they will give good current flow on the phase wires.

 

[UrbanPuma]

Use the screw type electrical block connectors 15a or 30a , they will give good current flow on the phase wires.

Ok, I will do this with phase wires. Thanks

 

[UrbanPuma]

Is this for 24v ?

Check the motor cable connector is pushed up to the indicated line on the male part on motor side .

I'm not sure what the line is that I should be looking for on jst connectors. Just to clarify, are you referring to the hall sensor and phase wire connectors?

 

[Nealh]

The 8 or 9 pin connector that comes out of the hub motor, it is approx 20cm long .
On the hub motor side of the connector one should feel a raised embossed line , and an arrow the connector needs to be pushed in up to the line.

 

[UrbanPuma]

The 8 or 9 pin connector that comes out of the hub motor, it is approx 20cm long .
On the hub motor side of the connector one should feel a raised embossed line , and an arrow the connector needs to be pushed in up to the line.

Hi Nealh,

I've just inspected the hub/wheel and noticed the wheel isn't sitting in the slot. The person who took it off hadn't put it back on properly.

I have attached a picture, and will try to undo it to reset the wheel. Could this be the reason why I can't get the wheel to spin?

 

[Nealh]

It is possible if the brakes are binding to prevent it rotating or if the tyre is jammed up against the chain stay. Though equally damage may have occurred to the Hall sensors, you won't know until the wheel is sitting in properly and can be rotated.
Walk assist should work if all is well by holding the minus pad down, if so then no reason why it shouldn't work with PAS or a throtle.

 

[Nealh]

Hi Nealh,

I've just inspected the hub/wheel and noticed the wheel isn't sitting in the slot. The person who took it off hadn't put it back on properly.

Who ever that was I wouldn't let them near the bike again.

 

[UrbanPuma]

It is possible if the brakes are binding to prevent it rotating or if the tyre is jammed up against the chain stay. Though equally damage may have occurred to the Hall sensors, you won't know until the wheel is sitting in properly and can be rotated.
Walk assist should work if all is well by holding the minus pad down, if so then no reason why it shouldn't work with PAS or a throtle.

Yes, there's no way I'd let that person touch my bike again. Ok, I'm going to test this tomorrow and report back. Thanks Nealh

 

[UrbanPuma]

I can't get a stable hall sensor connection Nealh, so will now take it to a repair shop to fit as it's proving very frustrating.

Thanks a bunch for your help - much appreciated.

Best wishes,

Urbanpuma