KT-LCD3 Controller Problem

Javaeyes

Just Joined
Dec 27, 2020
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Installed a CSC 48V 1500W conversion kit with LCD3 controller. Trying to testy with a fully charged battery. When I push the button to power on the controller, the digital display lights up but almost immediately shuts off without showing an error code. It will not light up again until I turn the battery off then on again. Concerned that its possibly due to battery having a 40A BMS protection board while controller's rated current is 22A. Is this a possibility and if it is, would a controller with a higher rated current solve the issue?
 

Andy-Mat

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 26, 2018
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Installed a CSC 48V 1500W conversion kit with LCD3 controller. Trying to testy with a fully charged battery. When I push the button to power on the controller, the digital display lights up but almost immediately shuts off without showing an error code. It will not light up again until I turn the battery off then on again. Concerned that its possibly due to battery having a 40A BMS protection board while controller's rated current is 22A. Is this a possibility and if it is, would a controller with a higher rated current solve the issue?
Unlikely is my thought.
Maybe you have a wiring error, check it all though very carefully. Look for loose or damaged connections.
Measure the battery voltage with a voltmeter, post here.
If the battery voltage is not correct for a 48 volt (assumed to be Li-ion), check the charger output voltage and post here.
Andy
 

Benjahmin

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Nov 10, 2014
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West Wales
This sounds like the display is momentarily firing up from residual voltage left in the controller inrush capacitors. Are you sure the battery is actually turned on? Is there some way of measuring battery voltage through to the controller?
The max current rating of controller and bms will have no effect with this problem.
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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Basildon
That's what happens when the battery isn't switched on. The leakage through the switch (mosfets in the BMS) puts some charge in the controller's capacitor, which is enough to power the LCD for a very short time. Maybe your battery's switch is back to front, otherwise you should check out your battery.

The LCD only takes 50 miliamps, so is not likely to trip your 40A BMS; however, there could be a short somewhere else that is tripping it. Measure the voltage on the battery connector before and after you switch on the LCD.