just got a new ebike-monster dirt virson

Doorgunner

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 11, 2016
7
0
65
Hi...I am new to the group.
I just got a killer fun bike, but having problems when I hit a bump. The bike I have has a frog box, the slide in battery to controller thing.
I am losing power everytime I hit a bump. My frog box has what looks very similar to a USA power cord as the connector...Is this the weak link, any fix, any advice please?
Pix and specs attached.
Thanks.
 

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Doorgunner

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 11, 2016
7
0
65
and if anyone has a readout on the handlebars that looks like this, please tell me how to turn on/keep on the intregrated headlamp.
Thanks, Paul
 

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D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Press and hold the middle and up button to switch on the backlight. If the controller has the connector for a headlight, that will be activated too.

You connection fault can be anywhere, but often, the battery sags down on the metal bracket that compromises the connection between the two blades and receivers. You'll probably find that the bracket is not strong enough for the weight of the battery, especially if you go over bumps. I would normally recommend fitting two struts to support it, but that's very tricky if you have rear suspension.

This is what can happen, though some manufacturers have wised up and strengthened the bracket:

 

Doorgunner

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 11, 2016
7
0
65
I am trying that...I just get a momentary lighting of the headlight...But it did show me how to do a reset. Since you have figured this out and I am without any book and just experimenting...I have a few questions...
--Can the display be changed to miles vs kilometers?
--Does the "c" reading in the bottom right mean the temp of the motor?
--If I have continuing connection problems, would be bypassing that easy mount electrical connection, to a new, more positve connection plug be a smart idea? It can't be all that complicated for 2 wires??
--Any suggestions on how to make that existing plug have a more positive connection, like putting a solder bead on the male prongs, etc??
Thank you for your time...I love the bike!!
 

anotherkiwi

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 26, 2015
7,845
5,786
The European Union
That is the LCD I have.

To turn on the lights I have to long press the up arrow
°C is ambiant temperature

Constant press on the down arrow is walk along mode
Press both arrows at the same time just after turning on gets you into set-up mode where you can choose wheel size miles or km etc.
Press both arrows after the bike has been turned on for a minute will make trip time and distance blink, short press on on/off switch will reset trip.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
If you take the battery off and look at the slots where the blades go in, you should see the sprung contacts. In fact I have one right in front of me now where the contact is completely bent to one side. I've seen them before where they're distorted so that one or both don't make good contact. have a look in there to see what it looks like. the gap between them should be minimal.
 

Doorgunner

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 11, 2016
7
0
65
Thank you both....I think I am making progress...am working in MPH now, turns out my bike goes 35mph, yeikes! Got the light working, but am adding supplemental lights...I slightly fatten up the male plug with solder, filed it down smooth, but now overall fatter. Just need a test ride!!:)
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Thank you both....I think I am making progress...am working in MPH now, turns out my bike goes 35mph, yeikes! Got the light working, but am adding supplemental lights...I slightly fatten up the male plug with solder, filed it down smooth, but now overall fatter. Just need a test ride!!:)
If the solder doesn't work, dismantle the black covers underneath the battery to expose the controller and its connections. Check the solder joints on the back of the spades and everything along the line into the controller.

Actually, you bike can go considerably faster than 35 mph. I reckon you could get maybe 120 mph if you chuck it off Beachy Head.

Seriously though, 35 mph doesn't sound right. I'm guessing that you're seeing the maximum speed setting on the display. That's the speed at which the power will be cut, but there's no way that the motor will reach that speed. The power will be cut by the motor maxing out long before it gets to 35 mph. Please let us know what it actually does.
 

Doorgunner

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 11, 2016
7
0
65
great update
have this to offer from the manufacture
http://www.conhismotor.com/manual/LCD_Control_Panel_User_Manual.pdf
and my soldering on to the male plugs worked great...I did a scary(not sure of my range/power thing)1.5 hour on/off road bad ass test...no fail, I was off road all the way... but I almost fell in to a water stream...it is not like a small motor cycle...it is half of a 1`25cc engine...STILL a BLAST.
Thank you for all your advice...
My next thing is.... I will do that road test speed thing, with a friend in a car clocking me...my readout tells me I am doing 35MPH+...need to verify that.
 

Doorgunner

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 11, 2016
7
0
65
I put on some pedalite pedals...I think well worth it...tonight as my batt was dying after 1.5hours of road and off road, I did a couple of miles on a power line road, almost ate in in a steam, big hills, working on my bike skills...just hoping my batt would get me home after dark...I was on some nasty, not bike lane roads...My bike rig is lit up like a highway worker with redundant other lights too...The cars respected me because of the incredible new very brighty lights that have their own batteries..
 

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