JST/SM versus HiGo/Julet Connectors - Wiring Differences

[StuartsProjects]

I can see there are two basic types of connectors used on controllers and eBike wiring in general. There is the JST/SM crimp style and the waterproof HiGo\Julet style.

I have noticed things like PAS, displays and brake sensors may use male or female connectors. I had to build a converter to adapt the PAS I needed to fit the controller I had. This was not just a simple male\female swap, the sequence of wires was different.

Is the wiring, as in the sequence of wires, when the JST\SM style connectors are used fairly standard or can you also end up swapping pins ?
Accepted that swappin pins in JST\SM style of connectors can be quite easy.

 

[Nealh]

Jst/sm pin out sequence is only std in most cases with the same brand/seller.
I have seen KT stuff from different sellers that not only have sequence differing but also M/F fittings, generally the sequence can be all over the place. It would be best if sellers simply supplied the jst connector loose.
Julet and Higo pin out is sequenced different and are directly incompatible in that way.

For a lot of folks it is all gobbledygook but if one applies logic and has a vague idea about China adhoc wire colours then some sense can be made of things. For most though they are confused and do end up on forums like this for help.

There was one guy several years ago who came on here and his controller in the main used the same repetitive colours, Black, Blue & Purple. Although daunting to some, if one used logic one could easily test the output wires to determine which colour was what. Once one determines the sequence with one set of wires then the others should follow suit on checking, 5v to Gnd quite easy to Id with power supplied and a meter.

 

[Nealh]

The only single point that we do know as being std is a julet 9 pin motor sequence layout with all generic hub motors.

 

[StuartsProjects]

Thanks for the reply.

I was thinking ahead a bit, assuming that one day the Swytch conversion on my Brompton were to fail, and how I would then do a DIY conversion.

If the JST/SM connectors were fairly standard, it might have made sense going down that route.

Anyway, food for thought I guess, thanks.

 

[LithiumFan]

I am trying to tidy up my rats nest of wiring by converting to waterproof connectors. So I bought a KT controller with waterproof connectors and the new LCD4 display does not show the battery level when I plug the motor cable I so the bike won't go. It does show the battery level with the power on but the motor cable detached. Does this I dicate incompatibility with the cables?it's most odd. All the bits came from Top Bike Kit. They have sent me a replacement controller but I have the same problem. However, when I connect the new motor through an old controller and an LCD3 display everything works fine.

I am considering using the old controller and converting to waterproof connectors. But how can I check which wire to connect at the controller cable if the colours are different? Eg I have a waterproof julet 3 pin connector on the new LCD4 display so I can't see what colour wire goes to which pin. The same applies to the 8 wire 1T2 extension cable and the throttle. I don't use brake cut offs. If I connect incorrectly will I damage anything? I can ensure I get continuity but how do I find out which pin is which to make future replacement simple?

 

[StuartsProjects]

Well you can work out the pins versus colours, you just need a plug or socket with bare wires at the other end, you can buy the Julet cables like this.

Could you damage stuff if you get it wrong ? Displays and the like might have reverse polarity protection but I would not bet on it.

One the controller side you can likely work out which are the power supply pins, they will probaly be the ones with the highest voltages.

I will be using an array of stuff to work it out, but then I have a good range of electronic test equipment, good multimeter, scope, current limited supply and some 45 years experience in electronics design and build.

Probably the first thing I will try is, on the working setup, check what connector rewires swapovers might be needed since the current setup using different gender Julets to the potential new setup, this is the case on the display and brake sensors.

However if you expecting an extensive tutorial on how to work all this out, I have not seen one.

 

[LithiumFan]

Many thanks. Problem now solved. I ended up looking inside the controller to identify the pins. All the pins except the black in the PAS and the throttle had the live and the signal wires the wrong way round. The 2 3-wire connectors were made by Lerner not julet. In case anyone else has the same issue here are the id's

Julet 8 pin 1T2 female connector at the controller:
Looking at the end and going clockwise from the 1st pin to the right of the locator nib.
1 white
2 Green
3 yellow
4 blue
5 red
6 purple (or brown as couldn't see easily)
7 grey
8 black

The pins at the female connectors at the other ends are (using same id system):
Throttle:
1 purple +5V (ie joined to pin 6 at controller connector)
2 black ground
3 grey

LCD4 display
1 red +36v
2 black ground
3 yellow (RX*)
4 Green (data*)
5 blue (control*)
* decription obtained from a photo on the net by Curt Welch

I did not blow anything up when I had the live and the signal wires the wrong way round on both the PAS and the throttle thank goodness. I'm now back up and running with my new motor in the back wheel with more oomph than the previous little AKM85 in the front wheel.