Help! Jorvick 24 trike / throttle

[lozedge]

Hi i,m a cancer patient with heart problem and diabetes just bought a jorvick jet 24 .
Problem is with my health limitations i need to upgrade it from ped assist to 15 mph throttle control .
The plug and play controller is situated at the base of the battery mount.
Is there a straight forward plug on replacement controller available that will solve the problem ,
I dont want to butcher the harness if that is avoidable,
Any suggestions would be appreciated on a cost effective solution ,
I,v tried emailing customer services at jorvick but it just comes up with a recapcha fault .
I know they do a 500 watt off road motor and controller upgrade which gives throttle control so wonder if they could supply a controller only to suit.i,m assuming my front hub is a bafang 250 .
I dont suppose there is any means to do any internal shunt in the controller as it looks to be a sealed unit.
Any ideas or suggestions would make my life easier ,and yes i,m aware of the laws on throttle bikes, regards john

 

[Nealh]

We will need to some clear pics of the controller wiring to see what you have got.

 

[Adwb]

Ok, first I must point out that what you want to achieve under current U.K. laws illegal, having said that it is achievable.
I am also unsure which model you have by your description Jet24?
I assume you have a basic C961 display unit?
As far as I know as supplied it is paired with a Lishui controller found below the seat post in a box with a cover on the side with 4 capscrews .
Unfortunately this brand is programmed to the retailers (Jorvic) specific parameters and cannot be adjusted.
However if the controller is located where I suggest it should be if you remove the cover and rubber gasket you should see 2 sets of thin wires.
One set go to the rear light/brake light .
The other should be a white or white to black with a joiner. Disconnect that and you will have full hand throttle with the PAS set to any level (1 and above)
please try that first and let me know how you get on?

 

[lozedge]

Ok, first I must point out that what you want to achieve under current U.K. laws illegal, having said that it is achievable.
I am also unsure which model you have by your description Jet24?
I assume you have a basic C961 display unit?
As far as I know as supplied it is paired with a Lishui controller found below the seat post in a box with a cover on the side with 4 capscrews .
Unfortunately this brand is programmed to the retailers (Jorvic) specific parameters and cannot be adjusted.
However if the controller is located where I suggest it should be if you remove the cover and rubber gasket you should see 2 sets of thin wires.
One set go to the rear light/brake light .
The other should be a white or white to black with a joiner. Disconnect that and you will have full hand throttle with the PAS set to any level (1 and above)
please try that first and let me know how you get on?

I,l check that out i do know the controller is located on the seat post directly below the battery so fingers crossed your suggestion may help solve my problem,
Thankyou

 

[lozedge]

Ok, first I must point out that what you want to achieve under current U.K. laws illegal, having said that it is achievable.
I am also unsure which model you have by your description Jet24?
I assume you have a basic C961 display unit?
As far as I know as supplied it is paired with a Lishui controller found below the seat post in a box with a cover on the side with 4 capscrews .
Unfortunately this brand is programmed to the retailers (Jorvic) specific parameters and cannot be adjusted.
However if the controller is located where I suggest it should be if you remove the cover and rubber gasket you should see 2 sets of thin wires.
One set go to the rear light/brake light .
The other should be a white or white to black with a joiner. Disconnect that and you will have full hand throttle with the PAS set to any level (1 and above)
please try that first and let me know how you get on?

Hi popped the controller off appears to be a sealed unit however there are three fine wires visible see pic
A black a yellow and an off
white ,
Enough room on the white but no conecter so i clipped it , (enough to resolder as a precaution)
Connected battery no change throttle still restricted to 4 mph,
But it was worth a try given that by coincidence the three wires you mentioned were present.
And accessable.so its obviously a later model controller that probably cant be altered.
Also by coincidence the pedlec sensor and thum throttle have the same 3 pin connectors
Popped the thumb throttle off the bars connected it to the pedlec but obviously it works on a different signal protocol from the linear throttle .
Just have to see if i can source a European controller
For it ,

 

[saneagle]

If you have a normal pedal sensor, you can spoof it with a pulse generator operated by a push button. This thing can be wired directly to the pedal sensor connector. Take a loop off the 5v to the handlebar switch. Set it to pulse frequency of about 600-1000 hz, and try 10% for the duty cycle.
Signal generator PWM pulse frequency duty cycle adjustable module lcd | eBay

When you press the button, it'll make the same signal as a pedal sensor, so should make the motor go.

 

[Adwb]

Hi popped the controller off appears to be a sealed unit however there are three fine wires visible see pic
A black a yellow and an off
white ,
Enough room on the white but no conecter so i clipped it , (enough to resolder as a precaution)
Connected battery no change throttle still restricted to 4 mph,
But it was worth a try given that by coincidence the three wires you mentioned were present.

Yes that’s not located where I described unfortunately, now I know what you have. I don’t think you can bypass that type hence my description of the location, two images below might help but I doubt it.
My understanding is that with that controller set up you will have to change the controller and display unit, might well be achievable you will need all the details off your controller and search for a alternative.
there are U.K. based importers who might be able to assist with that? Also seems odd that cutting that wire had no apparent effect it won’t be there for the fun of it?

 

[lozedge]

Yes that’s not located where I described unfortunately, now I know what you have. I don’t think you can bypass that type hence my description of the location, two images below might help but I doubt it.
My understanding is that with that controller set up you will have to change the controller and display unit, might well be achievable you will need all the details off your controller and search for a alternative.
there are U.K. based importers who might be able to assist with that? Also seems odd that cutting that wire had no apparent effect it won’t be there for the fun of it?

Hi i was bit bemused that cutting the white wire had no discernable effect throttle just did 4 miles per hour .
However i noticed on your pics of suggested controller and wire code that a white wire is also a speed signal , so possible that i did not try ped assist while the white was disconnected so probably is the signal wire from the ped sensor to the controller .
Thought i,d better mention that for the benefit of future queries on the forum,
Just to update i emailed jorvik with my medical details and asked if they could supply / sell me a suitable controller to replace the original went into the full detail of why i needed throttle control,
Had a reply within an hour telling me they do not stock or sell spare parts for trikes so they couldn't help,
Now forgive me for being pedantic but the warranty period on most of their trikes , is 24 month . So if some major component goes toes up they cant or won't sell a replacement , in my case i bought mine used but 3 month old private so obviously
The warranty is void anyway which i accept is the case , however i did comment in reply that given that they dont sell spares or stock spares buying a trike from them would be a very expensive product risk if it failed after 2 years and the lack of replacement spares rendered it useless ,
I was horrified to think that some people pay a minimum of £2,700 up to near on £4,000 for such an expensive trike that could be essentially useless if any component failed after the 2 year warranty expired due to no spares available.
One wonders how spares materialise during the warranty period .
Sorry drifting off the original subject ,
Taking your suggestion i whipped the controller off the trike and took a series of pics of all the pin plugs / connectors so i,v got an idea of whats needed for a replacement controller see pics also pics of the pin configuration for each connection, yellow 3 pin defo ped sensor blue i,l guess is the light and brake line ?
Two bigger connections obviously are motor and display respectively,
Looked at a few similar controllers and they have a red plug as opposed to a blue not sure if that red is same as blue light line on this controller . I,l put pics up anyway ,
Few posts on other sites suggest mounting the ped gear on the front or rear wheel , problem with that is no variable control over speed , except for brake s, but crap if your flying round sharp turns.
Thanks again for your input

 

[saneagle]

Hi i was bit bemused that cutting the white wire had no discernable effect throttle just did 4 miles per hour .
However i noticed on your pics of suggested controller and wire code that a white wire is also a speed signal , so possible that i did not try ped assist while the white was disconnected so probably is the signal wire from the ped sensor to the controller .
Thought i,d better mention that for the benefit of future queries on the forum,
Just to update i emailed jorvik with my medical details and asked if they could supply / sell me a suitable controller to replace the original went into the full detail of why i needed throttle control,
Had a reply within an hour telling me they do not stock or sell spare parts for trikes so they couldn't help,
Now forgive me for being pedantic but the warranty period on most of their trikes , is 24 month . So if some major component goes toes up they cant or won't sell a replacement , in my case i bought mine used but 3 month old private so obviously
The warranty is void anyway which i accept is the case , however i did comment in reply that given that they dont sell spares or stock spares buying a trike from them would be a very expensive product risk if it failed after 2 years and the lack of replacement spares rendered it useless ,
I was horrified to think that some people pay a minimum of £2,700 up to near on £4,000 for such an expensive trike that could be essentially useless if any component failed after the 2 year warranty expired due to no spares available.
One wonders how spares materialise during the warranty period .
Sorry drifting off the original subject ,
Taking your suggestion i whipped the controller off the trike and took a series of pics of all the pin plugs / connectors so i,v got an idea of whats needed for a replacement controller see pics also pics of the pin configuration for each connection, yellow 3 pin defo ped sensor blue i,l guess is the light and brake line ?
Two bigger connections obviously are motor and display respectively,
Looked at a few similar controllers and they have a red plug as opposed to a blue not sure if that red is same as blue light line on this controller . I,l put pics up anyway ,
Few posts on other sites suggest mounting the ped gear on the front or rear wheel , problem with that is no variable control over speed , except for brake s, but crap if your flying round sharp turns.
Thanks again for your input

You have a standard 9 pin connector on the motor, so you can use any controller or battery you want and any throttle and/or pedal sensor you want. If you go to standard ones, you'll never need to worry about spare parts, and they'll be a lot cheaper.

 

[lozedge]

You have a standard 9 pin connector on the motor, so you can use any controller or battery you want and any throttle and/or pedal sensor you want. If you go to standard ones, you'll never need to worry about spare parts, and they'll be a lot cheaper.

Thankyou would this entail replacing the display unit
Which also doubles as the switch for the lights and brake lights which i would prefer to retain but not a big problem , just had a further email from jorvik saying basically that my front hub is suprise suprise a 250 wat so would need to be 500 wat to upgrade with a kit ,
Yep its 250 36 v most of controllers on net are 500 wat which i doubt would make a difference to the motor but i,l take advice on that .
Thanks again for your input , been very helpful this forum

 

[saneagle]

Thankyou would this entail replacing the display unit
Which also doubles as the switch for the lights and brake lights which i would prefer to retain but not a big problem , just had a further email from jorvik saying basically that my front hub is suprise suprise a 250 wat so would need to be 500 wat to upgrade with a kit ,
Yep its 250 36 v most of controllers on net are 500 wat which i doubt would make a difference to the motor but i,l take advice on that .
Thanks again for your input , been very helpful this forum

It's not a 250w motor in the sense you mean. Motors don't have power. The 250w is an arbitrary label for legal compliance. It should be able to manage around 1000w if you're careful or if it's a low speed version.

You should always buy controllers and LCDs as a matched pair to guarantee compatibility.

Many controllers have connectors for lights, but most of them can't provide the power for decent lights. It's always better to wire lights direct to the main battery with their own fuse and switch.

 

[Adwb]

Your comments on Jorvic noted. installing a higher capacity controller and matching display presents no electrical issues but does give you more power but not speed. Speed is normally associated with battery volts size .
battery capacity is associated with how many hours it will supply before being empty.
any wire that is looped from the controller body and back to the body regardless of colour might well be the low speed switch, it should not require cutting and should have plug in it.

 

[saneagle]

If you don't want to hack out the controller, you can buy just the receiver, then you canget a KT controller and stick it in a bag under the seat, like mine.

Is this your receiver.

ebike new style downtube/tigershark battery mounting base-Greenbikekit.com BBS, ebike batteries, Bafang M620, Bafang M600, Bafang M500, Bafang M510, KT controller with display-GreenBikeKit.com

ebike frame/downtube battery mounting base for replacement.

www.greenbikekit.com

 

[lozedge]

If you don't want to hack out the controller, you can buy just the receiver, then you canget a KT controller and stick it in a bag under the seat, like mine.

Is this your receiver.

ebike new style downtube/tigershark battery mounting base-Greenbikekit.com BBS, ebike batteries, Bafang M620, Bafang M600, Bafang M500, Bafang M510, KT controller with display-GreenBikeKit.com

ebike frame/downtube battery mounting base for replacement.

www.greenbikekit.com

Hi yep looks same