Is it possible to convert an 8 speed 11-32T to 10-32T?

Nealh

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I have no exp with Sram cassettes but all the shimano and Sunrace cassettes I have used the small high gear is always a loose one.
 

guerney

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The 11T is removable, but as yet I haven't been able to find a 10T to replace it with - it's probably a daft line on enquiry but I thought it was worth asking just in case.
 

Woosh

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I have never seen 10T on a bike. The sprocket's diameter would come so close to the diameter of the freehub's body so may necessitate a redesign of the freehub.
 

guerney

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A one piece 10T cog and locknut? Might be too weak



I was looking for a simpler way of increasing speed a little on the flat, without using a spider and changing the bafang chainring.
 

Woosh

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The top sprocket of that cassette has 11 teeth though. One piece locknut and sprocket may do it but how would that work? The cassette's advantage is its simplicity
 

guerney

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It wouldn't much more complicated, the question is whether it'd be as robust as the 11T. It's easier to just get a spider and bigger chainring. I don't have a metalworking workshop.
 

peter.c

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A local has a 10t-50t Sram eagle 12 speed set up on his very expensive gravel bike, the rear frame down by the mech is tiny so the chain does not foul the frame the chain also is very thin
 
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Nealh

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I haven't seen 9 or 10t for a cassette of 10 gears or less, the 11/12 spds are splined differently.
 
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guerney

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peter.c

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The micro spline is used so it lowers the physical overall dia of the locking ring , suspect it might be cheaper to buy a new bike rather than go 12 speed route o_O If you spider is 130 bcd you could go up to 60t on the front if you have the clearance, the joy of small wheels and a mid -drive:oops:
 
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Nealh

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Or just ride slower as you are.
 
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guerney

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I expect going from a 52T to 58T (found one going cheap on ebay) up front would necessitate the increase of controller amps from 15A to 20A - something I've not had need to increase, despite hauling a heavy trailer up steep hills. I've hit the trailer weight limit (for QR axles it's 50kg) before I've needed to think about increasing controller amp draw.

I thought my shiny new SRAM QR axle had bent two days ago - was taking a shortcut through a golf course, and the trailer hit a post while I was getting onto the public road through it (they've built a golf course inside a nature reserve, they can't stop me)... but it turned out the aluminium washer I had added to reduce wear on the frame had warped, stretched and bent. So a Homcom trailer+cargo weighing 96.7kg in total, isn't too much for my bike after all, but pulling that up steep hills to my garden using 58T>32T will need more than 15A.

I'm really pleased with my 19.2Ah battery with LG MH1 cells, don't want to kill it off early unless I need to by drawing too high ampage - after accidentally leaving it to charge 3 hours too long the other day, I discovered that it charged to a solid 41.9V, even after 3,516km. And it was still borderline 41.8/41.9V (skipping between the two) after it was left unused (rebooked an appointment) 24 hours later.
 
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georgehenry

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When I was commuting to work cross country and then back on the road late at night I wanted to try and average 20mph for my 10 mile journey home on the road. However I still needed a low enough bottom gear for climbing the steepest off road track I used on the way to work. I rode a Haibike Crank Drive Yamaha. My approach was to increase the size of my chain ring to find the largest size that still gave me a lowest bottom gear to climb the tracks I needed to. As my Yamaha crank drive motor could wear the smallest top gear sprocket I ended up with a cheap steel 9 speed 12/36 cassette paired with a 42 tooth narrow wide chain ring. having a 12 tooth rather than an 11 tooth top gear made it last longer. I also bought individual 12 tooth cogs of ebay but found the quality too variable. One would work fine and another would not fit at all. My Haibike Yamaha could average 20 mph for 10 miles and topped out at about 26 miles an hour. I mostly road in the lowest assist on level slightly down slightly up gradients and mostly maintained a speed of 20 to 23mph.
 
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guerney

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Or just ride slower as you are.
the joy of small wheels and a mid -drive:oops:
Old habits die hard - I'm accustomed to my racing bike, which I gave up riding late 80s... that was much faster. Pootling along so slowly on the flats feels odd, but I'm getting used to it. I suspect at some point something will snap and I'll reach for the ebay bookmarks...
 

peter.c

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The large chain ring and 11t on the back increases the chain load, if you try and apply full power in the 11t from a lower speed it can snap the chain .
Have the opposite problem on mine wheel/tyre dia is almost 30 inches and the 48v 250 watt 42t front cannot reach full speed on the 11t
 
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Nealh

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I take it gently towing when loaded and 12mph, i happy with and in no rush to gain a few minutes getting somewhere.
 

guerney

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Have the opposite problem on mine wheel/tyre dia is almost 30 inches and the 48v 250 watt 42t front cannot reach full speed on the 11t
What would be full speed? Those are big wheels, about the same size as were on my old racer probably.
 

guerney

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I take it gently towing when loaded and 12mph, i happy with and in no rush to gain a few minutes getting somewhere.
When hauling that weight, I watch the speedo like a hawk and never exceed 16kph... and usually I'm much slower than that. I don't want the trailer hitting bumps at speed and thrashing me plus bike into traffic, or something.

Now that I know the upper (scary) limit, I've returned to keeping the overall trailer weight at 76kg, which feels a lot safer.

Next up will be the Carry Freedom Small Y trailer, which I haven't used much yet - which reminds me that I must pick up a really heavy small table with it next quite soon, once I find one strong enough for my power amps.