Hydraulic Brake Sensor wiring - 2 to 3 pin?

My apologies if this has been asked before, but I can't find anything with a quick search. I'm musing over upgrading one of my Yose Power fitted bikes with a KT controller and display, mainly to try out the "Torque Simulation", but also have the option to go 48V. at some point.

Looking at TopBikeKit's website, the KT T06S 15A. controller (Julet connectors) uses a 4-in-1 cable that has red 2-pin connectors for brake switches. I only want one magnetic sensor for the rear brake and I already have a spare 3-pin Yose Power one. It looks identical to the 2-pin version sold by TBK (obviously except for the connector).

I'm assuming that the 2-pin is signal and ground, and the 3-pin is 5v. +, signal and ground. If I cut off the connectors, solder the signal and grounds together and just isolate the surplus 5v.+ on the sensor cable will it work - or is the 3-pin sensor likely to be different internally to the 2-pin?

My existing Yose Power PAS sensor KT-D12L and throttle appear to be the same as those listed by TBK, so no need to buy either?

This sounds plausible...

https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/why-some-motor-inhibitor-has-3-pin-and-some-has-2pin.39769/

My apologies if this has been asked before, but I can't find anything with a quick search. I'm musing over upgrading one of my Yose Power fitted bikes with a KT controller and display, mainly to try out the "Torque Simulation", but also have the option to go 48V. at some point.

 

Looking at TopBikeKit's website, the KT T06S 15A. controller (Julet connectors) uses a 4-in-1 cable that has red 2-pin connectors for brake switches. I only want one magnetic sensor for the rear brake and I already have a spare 3-pin Yose Power one. It looks identical to the 2-pin version sold by TBK (obviously except for the connector).

 

I'm assuming that the 2-pin is signal and ground, and the 3-pin is 5v. +, signal and ground. If I cut off the connectors, solder the signal and grounds together and just isolate the surplus 5v.+ on the sensor cable will it work - or is the 3-pin sensor likely to be different internally to the 2-pin?

 

My existing Yose Power PAS sensor KT-D12L and throttle appear to be the same as those listed by TBK, so no need to buy either?

If you have a three pin sensor, it has a hall sensor in it, so it needs the 5v to power it. 2-wire ones are simple switches, either mechanical or reed switch, which don't need the 5v. In other words, you can fit a two-wire brake switch to a 3-wire controller, but not a three-wire switch to a 2-wire controller. You can, of course, get the 5v from the throttle cable if you have one.

There's always the possibility that they put a three-pin connector on a reed switch, with one pin not connected, for the sake of compatibility. Unless you can see what type of switch you have, you can test it with a magnet or by normal operation after installation. You don't know which pin is which, so you have to test each pair. If it's a reed or mechanical switch, the continuity between one pair will change state when the magnet comes and goes. If nothing happens, it a hall sensor.

Edited September 27, 20241 yr by saneagle

If you have a three pin sensor, it has a hall sensor in it, so it needs the 5v to power it. 2-wire ones are simple switches, either mechanical or reed switch. They don't need the 5v. In other words, you can fit a two-wire brake switch to a 3-wire controller, but not a three-wire switch to a 2-wire controller. You can, of course, get the 5v from the throttle cable if you have one.

Thanks for the quick reply. Sounds like I need a 2-pin sensor with the KT T06S then, which is a shame as TBK sell them in pairs and I'll only want one. Yes, I am a skinflint!

Thanks for the quick reply. Sounds like I need a 2-pin sensor with the KT T06S then, which is a shame as TBK sell them in pairs and I'll only want one. Yes, I am a skinflint!

I added a bit to the above post.

I added a bit to the above post.

Ah! That's worth a try. Thanks again.

There's always the possibility that they put a three-pin connector on a reed switch, with one pin not connected, for the sake of compatibility. Unless you can see what type of switch you have, you can test it with a magnet or by normal operation after installation. You don't know which pin is which, so you have to test each pair. If it's a reed or mechanical switch, the continuity between one pair will change state when the magnet comes and goes. If nothing happens, it a hall sensor.

I've just stuck some pins in the 3-pin female connector of the spare Yose Power magnetic sensor. With the magnet in contact I get "OL" on my multi-meter on all three pairs. Without the magnet touching the sensor I get "OL" on two pairs, but the audible buzzer sounds on the third pair. The reading fluctuates from about 3.4 to 9.7, probably due to me trying to hold the probes steady.

Forgive my electrical ignorance, but this suggests to me that I can solder the 2-pin wires from the KT controller to the two wires identified above in the Yose Power sensor plug and it will work? If so I guess it won't matter which way they are connected?

I've just stuck some pins in the 3-pin female connector of the spare Yose Power magnetic sensor. With the magnet in contact I get "OL" on my multi-meter on all three pairs. Without the magnet touching the sensor I get "OL" on two pairs, but the audible buzzer sounds on the third pair. The reading fluctuates from about 3.4 to 9.7, probably due to me trying to hold the probes steady.

Forgive my electrical ignorance, but this suggests to me that I can solder the 2-pin wires from the KT controller to the two wires identified above in the Yose Power sensor plug and it will work? If so I guess it won't matter which way they are connected?

Yes, that's right, either way round will work.