Hub motor identification
- Thread starter okmate
- Start date
Just a bunch of meaningless numbers , most likely a factory /producer S/N.
Lets see a proper hub pic .
Lets see a proper hub pic .
Direct drive 1kw motor aka a dinner plate, likel weighs in at 5.3kg.
Wouldn't want that in those forks the drops out will snap for sure and face plant you.
Wouldn't want that in those forks the drops out will snap for sure and face plant you.
Looks like the axle is installed 180° out, the cable should exit down towards the ground to avoid moisture running down the cable and into the hub.
Yes, but what to you want - tidy look and destroyed motor, or ugly look and motor that lasts a lifetime?
It's a clone of a clone of a clone of a 9C direct drive motor. You should use two torque arms for that one. They need a fair bit of current to come to life - about 25 amps+. That's a lot for your nice forks. You'd do better with steel non-suspension forks. Your nice ones won't work very well with it and will probably break at the drop-outs anyway.
I agree but when they come new out of the shop with the cable facing up, what do you do?
Doesnt look like a quality fork either, more like one of those ebay affairs straight out of some Chinese* shed.
I've always felt the forces acting on a suss fork with a front drive motor would be too great, especially across the crown. Its trying to pull the weight of the bike plus the rider, all acting on that junction.
*Not a slur on Chinese engineering. Their best is as good as our best. But some sources are not tested to the same degree as other forks
That's not a problem. The only failures I've seen or heard about are broken drop-outs.
The problem is that the torque adds a bending force to the stanchions, which locks them from moving up and down, and the added unsprung mass makes the suspension unresponsive, so it gives a choppy ride.
Those direct drive motors come in many variations. They look the same from the outside but have different windings and magnets. The same applies to geared hub-motors.
Motor's don't have torque or power. They convert what the controller gives them. If a motor is too fast for the power you give it, it works inefficiently and makes a lot of heat for itself and the controller.
When choosing a motor, the most important characteristic is the maximum RPM, which needs to be about 1.3 times your planned modal riding speed, so you choose a 260 rpm motor for 15 mph riding (26" wheel) and 320 RPM for 20 mph, then you choose a controller that gives the motor enough power to deal with those speeds while considering your weight, how hard you pedal and the steepness of your hills.
Motor's don't have torque or power. They convert what the controller gives them. If a motor is too fast for the power you give it, it works inefficiently and makes a lot of heat for itself and the controller.
When choosing a motor, the most important characteristic is the maximum RPM, which needs to be about 1.3 times your planned modal riding speed, so you choose a 260 rpm motor for 15 mph riding (26" wheel) and 320 RPM for 20 mph, then you choose a controller that gives the motor enough power to deal with those speeds while considering your weight, how hard you pedal and the steepness of your hills.
Looking at the one side only, unless you're replacing some notched washers on the inside of the axles, there won't be enough room for torque arms. The nut is almost at the end. Nonetheless, you do want them on front motor.
Faceplants are no fun.
Faceplants are no fun.
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