How to connect an ebike headlight to a Panasonic pedelec?

[magnuken]

Hi,
My wife have a German Rixe Bordeaux G8 pedelec with a Schimano hub-dynamo (nabendynamo) and a Busch&Müller headlight. The problem is that this B&M light is very powerless with this hub-dynamo.

To get a better headlight on this e-bike I have thought to replace this B&M light with a Philips Saferide Ebike light or some similar headlight that take the power from the ebike battery.

But the problem is, how and where do I connect this ebike light to the Panasonic battery of the pedelec?

Philips | New in Europe

 

[flecc]

First I'm assuming that this Philips lamp comes in a version for the 24/26 volts of your battery.

If so, you need to remove some cowlings to expose the battery connector platform which I show below. This is to get at the connections underneath to attach the two feed wires for your light:

On the next photo down the platform connections corresponding to the battery base shown that you need are number 2 for the negative, this being the left hand one in the above photo, and number 5 for the output positive, this being the right hand one in the photo above. Put another way, the positive connection of the battery platform is the one nearest the front of the bike:

 

[tillson]

The timing of this post has come just at the right time for me. Today, I have finally got around to making a set of brackets to permanently mount my, rather more powerful than standard LED lights, onto my Pro Connect. I intend to power them from the motor battery via a DC-DC voltage step down circuit. (The lights need 8.something volts)

The information posted above will be very useful. Thank you for that. Forum member Lazyviking has carried out a similar exercise and has posted some useful information here.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Is it rerally worth the hassle to do this?
You can buy some really good lights that come with their own small pack of rechargeable lithium batteries for not a lot of money. There's just been a whole thread on bike lights: However, i can tell you that you wouldn't be disappointed with one like this:
CREE XML XM-L 1800 Lumens LED Cycling Bicycle Light bike Headlamp HeadLight Lamp | eBay

 

[tillson]

Is it rerally worth the hassle to do this?
You can buy some really good lights that come with their own small pack of rechargeable lithium batteries for not a lot of money. There's just been a whole thread on bike lights: However, i can tell you that you wouldn't be disappointed with one like this:
CREE XML XM-L 1800 Lumens LED Cycling Bicycle Light bike Headlamp HeadLight Lamp | eBay

I have just purchased that same light and it was on your recommendation d8veh, so it had better be good when it eventually arrives!

I already have an adequate 700 lumen front light which has served me well, and it continues to do so after 3 years of ownership. I have no need for this 1800 lumen model, but want one, so I suppose this makes me an LED light junkie.

You are right, the battery packs which come with these lights are very good, give a long burn time and seem to retain their capacity well. I quite like the idea of making the fit look more permanent though. The rubber bands, lumps of battery and Velcro straps associated with the standard lighting packs don't complement my beautiful Kakhoff Pro Connect. She deserves better.

 

[flecc]

Is it rerally worth the hassle to do this?
You can buy some really good lights that come with their own small pack of rechargeable lithium batteries for not a lot of money. There's just been a whole thread on bike lights: However, i can tell you that you wouldn't be disappointed with one like this:
CREE XML XM-L 1800 Lumens LED Cycling Bicycle Light bike Headlamp HeadLight Lamp | eBay

I agree with this view and it's the course I would prefer, leaving the bike's system alone.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I have just purchased that same light and it was on your recommendation d8veh, so it had better be good when it eventually arrives!

I already have an adequate 700 lumen front light which has served me well, and it continues to do so after 3 years of ownership. I have no need for this 1800 lumen model, but want one, so I suppose this makes me an LED light junkie.

You are right, the battery packs which come with these lights are very good, give a long burn time and seem to retain their capacity well. I quite like the idea of making the fit look more permanent though. The rubber bands, lumps of battery and Velcro straps associated with the standard lighting packs don't complement my beautiful Kakhoff Pro Connect. She deserves better.

I stand by my judgement and reputation, so, if you're dissatisfied with it, you can send it to me and I'll give you your money back.

 

[tillson]

I stand by my judgement and reputation, so, if you're dissatisfied with it, you can send it to me and I'll give you your money back.

I know your word is good, that's why I went for this light. I think your money and reputation will be safe.

 

[mikep]

The Philips comes in two models a 60 lux for dynamo fitting (as in the link the OP provided) and an 80 lux which runs off 4 internal rechargeable batteries. I have bought and fitted both (to different bikes).

I fitted the dynamo version to my wifes Raleigh Dover, fitting is simplicity itself, as it is a direct replacement for the pathetic oem B&M unit. You do not need to connect to the Panasonic battery. Your standard Shimano hub dynamo is quite adequate.

In many ways the dynamo version is better than the rechargeable version because it runs at 60lux all the time, with a beam that puts to shame a number of dipped beams on cars I have previously owned! However its not that bright that it needs dipping for oncoming traffic if set up properly. Its certainly safe to cycle at 16mph on unlit roads and see all the potholes / bends as the beam is broadly spread and can be set to 10 - 15metres ahead without any undue bright spots. The unit also has a built in capacitor to keep the light on (albeit reduced output) when stationary. The unit is not good enough for off road use, but for urban / country road use IMHO its unbeatable and the silver one is on special offer at Rosebikes.

 

[Mussels]

Is it rerally worth the hassle to do this?

I used to think that until I got my most recent bike with lights built in and powered from the main battery, it's much simpler not worrying about whether I need to charge them up or not.
I still carry spares but they are just small flashing ones and rarely need charging.

 

[flecc]

From what mikep says, there is no high voltage version of the Philips light so a voltage dropping circuit will be needed, as mentioned by Tillson above.

 

[mikep]

The bike has a Shimano dynahub, if the 60lux Philips for dynamos is purchased (which is in the product in their link), there is no need to play with any electrical connections other than deconstructing the plug onto the dynahub and inserting the wires for the Philips light. The unit works absolutely perfectly with the dynamo.

 

[NRG]

Learnt a bit about Lumens and light output over the weekend from a friend. These Cree LED lights on ebay and from elsewhere are all using the same TML LED but have differing Lumen output, why?

This article helps explain: How Are Lumens Measured? | eHow.com

Its essentially about perception and its why my latest 1600lm light has a more focused beam than my 700 ones....so in essence don't get carried away with more Lumens = better as what you may end up with is a search light instead of headlight.