I have an E-Bike kit Installed and working fine but would like to try and get some extra power for the hills. I have a 250w motor, 36v 12.8ah/460.8wh battery and my controller says rated current 7A (which is what I'm running at) and maximum current 14+1A how high can I set the AMPS at?
How much current can i run at?
- Thread starter Chris gough
- Start date
The main limit is what the battery is capable of delivering without damage. You would need to know the maximum amperage of the battery. Unfortunatly this is not something that seems to be given in specs. The other route is to determine what cells are in the battery (make and model) and also what bms is fitted.
As to adjustment we would need to know what display linked to what controller you have fitted.
As to adjustment we would need to know what display linked to what controller you have fitted.
I have a kt-lcd7 display linked to a kt36sp3r-gp ip24 controller. And I'm not too sure on the maximum amperage of the battery as it doesn't state that on the battery, will do a bit of digging and find out.
After I opned my battery up and posted photos of the BMS (labelled 22A), cells (LG MH1, 3200mAh) and cell config details (19.2 Ah, 13S5P/13 series 5 parallel)... a very wise electronic forum boffin (nealh) reckoned it's capable of 25A continuous. To prolong battery lifespan I only use 15A, also because I don't need more than 15A out of the maximum of 20A (which is the bbs01b controller limit). I waited until the warranty expired, before I opened the battery for a proper look, but I shouldn't have waited, because the seller is based in China and as such the battery warranty is probably moot anyway.
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Unless you have reduced the C5 setting on the display, your bike will give you full power, 14 amps, on highest PAS setting or full throttle if you have one fitted.
It has the same MH1's that Guerney has, in your case the 4 cells in each parallel group so theoretically 40a continuous output, tbh though you controller at 14/15a is a good match, 25 - 28a could be drawn from the battery but this is determined by the BMS rating. Likely the BMS is 20 - 25a max continuous.
For battery cell life although rated for 10a one shoudn't max them out and 60 or 70% of the rating should be adhered to as a max current draw to ensure a good life cycle and usage.
One shouldn't try for more unless one knows what the BMS is rated for.
For battery cell life although rated for 10a one shoudn't max them out and 60 or 70% of the rating should be adhered to as a max current draw to ensure a good life cycle and usage.
One shouldn't try for more unless one knows what the BMS is rated for.
As wheeliepete suggests, shunt modding may be a cost effective way of increasing the amp delivery. The controller you show looks similar to the Cyclamatic controllers from years ago.
I shunt modded my Cyclamatic and it certainly gave it some more oomph. If you do decide to add solder to the shunt, then don't go crazy. Just add a tiny bit, test and adjust if necessary.
I shunt modded my Cyclamatic and it certainly gave it some more oomph. If you do decide to add solder to the shunt, then don't go crazy. Just add a tiny bit, test and adjust if necessary.
After being let down by a different company this is what I am using ATM. I will be upgrading at some point but may aswell get my use out of it but would definitely like a bit more oomph on my 19 mile round trip commute.
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From that the specs are scant so one can only assume that 20a discharge is the max without any other info to go on.
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