How important are brake lever kill switches?

[John Galvin]

Hi

Just starting to put my kit on the bike and discovered that the brake lever is fouling the twist gear selector.
The little drum at the end of the cable also seems to be a little small for these new levers and I'm wondering if there are two sizes?
I'm toying with the idea of seeing will the brake lever from the kit fit ok on the other side and just have one kill switch.
Are the kill switches vital/a good idea/not really necessary.

Thanks

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You need at least one.

If you get water in the throttle or break it, it'll cause the motor to run at maybe maximum speed. If you try and stop the motor with the brakes, you'll blow the controller or burn out the motor or damage the internal gears. I

f you have a pedal sensor fitted, power will run on for a bit after you stop pedalling, which is horrible without a brake cut-off.

 

[John Galvin]

Right, thanks. I'll try putting one on the other side tomorrow. If I run into trouble with the cable, I'll bring it to my LBS. Hopefully it won't involve changing the cables.

 

[Aushiker]

I don't use e-bike brake levers preferring better quality equipment so to get around this I have fitted a Hidden Brake Wire Sensor which has worked well so far. Maybe an option worth considering.

Andrew

 

[John Galvin]

Thanks, that looks a good option. As I want to get the bike up and running now, I'll use one of the e-bike brake levers and have a look at those sensors maybe for a winter project.

I don't use e-bike brake levers preferring better quality equipment so to get around this I have fitted a Hidden Brake Wire Sensor which has worked well so far. Maybe an option worth considering.

Andrew

 

[amigafan2003]

There are various ways of fitting the switches to existing levers as well - a bit of latteral thinking, normally some Araldite and occasionally a Neodymium magnet and you're good to go - normally the only option if you have hydraulics and don't want to resort to an expensive Magura switch. Here are a few of my solutions I've used for my ebikes:-

 

[John Galvin]

Thanks

I like the idea of the inline switches in the brake lines themselves and I think that'll be the long term solution.
In the meantime, I've fitted the ebike lever to the left (rear brake), the side without the gears and it's fine there.
I still have a problem that my cable end seems to be smaller than it should be. I'll talk to my LBS tomorrow. I'm sure he'll have a solution. Maybe new cables for now.

There are various ways of fitting the switches to existing levers as well - a bit of latteral thinking, normally some Araldite and occasionally a Neodymium magnet and you're good to go - normally the only option if you have hydraulics and don't want to resort to an expensive Magura switch. Here are a few of my solutions I've used for my ebikes:-

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You can make a very good rear brake switch from one of these or any defunct cycle computer if you have bare cable on your crossbar:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-LCD-Bike-Bicycle-Cycle-Computer-Speedometer-Speedo-Odometer-35DI-/390898673266?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_Bike_Lights&hash=item5b03606672

Cut the sensor cable off where it leaves the head unit. Cable-tie the sensor to the croiss-bar. Fix the magnet to the cable just next to the sensor so that when you apply the brake, it moves to the sensor and switches it on. That's about three minutes work, which is easier than fitting the brake lever.

 

[John Galvin]

I have an old bike computer without the computer on my vintage '94 Raleigh. I might have a go with that. I don't have any bare cables on the cross bar but I have quite a bit at the brake.
From your description, The motor cuts off when the magnet is against the reed switch - correct?

Thanks

 

[jackhandy]

If you fit a sensor close to the business end, make sure the magnet has plenty of movement without impeding the cable.

I had a brake that constantly needed adjustment & would sometimes not operate proper.

 

[axolotl]

I don't think my bike has any kill switches on the brake levers...but I'm not sure it needs any. It's BH with Panasonic crank drive. As soon as I stop pedalling the power stops.

 

[trex]

brake sensor kills PAS power and is not needed if PAS is not used.

 

[John Galvin]

Just been down to my LBS and he reckons I'll be grand, even though the little socket to hold the cable is a little bigger. I'll put a single switch in for now, as the other brake lever interferes with the gears.
Maybe later I'll have a look at the hidden brake sensors etc.

brake sensor kills PAS power and is not needed if PAS is not used.

I'll be using PAS so it looks like they will be needed.
For now, I think I'll sort out the cable issue and use a single ebike brake lever.

 

[drsolly]

I liked the idea of using a defunct cycle computer to make a brake sensor. But I checked, and I dont have a broken cycle computer in my "Box of bits".

I could buy an HWBS from batterybikekit.com for $7.90, or for $12 from em3ev.com. Plus postage from the USA. Plus (possibly) VAT, plus any other random taxes that DHL might dun me for. Or I can go to alibaba.com or aliexpress.com and pay about £8 each. Or, on Ebay, I could buy a couple of electric bike brake levers, but I prefer to use a combined brake/gear shifter from Shimano. I can't find an HWBS on Ebay.

So I could buy a cycle computer, cit the wire and just use the sensor, but that doesn't feel right.

So I ordered a normally-open reed switch. Ten for 99p, including delivery, from Ebay. And with one of those, and a magnet, and a length of thin wire, I think I can make my own.

Since I mostly use the rear brake (left hand side) for slowing, I'll fit it there first, because that's what I'd grab at first in any need to stop.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Building a bike is dead simple. It's the decisions that are difficult!