Help to identify 500-W motor please

[bill_s]

Hi,
I've just purchased a kit similar to the one shown on this link:
NEW ELECTRIC BIKE CONVERSION KIT E-BIKE KIT 500W MAGIC WHEELS | eBay

Can anyone identify and or comment on the motor make & model before I start spending money on the installation?

The information engraved on the hub is: 500W SYD 673626 IKO204.
The controller is identified as BZO1B 1:1, Power 500W Angle 120 deg by Nanjing Yuanlang Tech. Dev. Co Ltd.

Thanks, Bill.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That looks like the Ananda motor sold as the Q128 by BMSBattery. It's difficult to see the photo, but you can confirm if it has 3 screws on non-wire side near to the axle and on the same side 6 screws holding the side-plate on near the spokes.

If that's what you've got, it might have 500w written on it but the power is about the same as a 250w Bafang, and it doesn't give much more power if you increase the current and volts. 20 amps is about the sweet spot. Also, it's not a good climber, but on the plus side, it's very smooth and quiet.

I disassembled one today, so here's the photo of what's inside:

 

[bill_s]

Thanks d8veh for your very interesting and informative reply.
However, I don't think it's the same as your Ananda motor because it only seems to have two screws on the non-wiring side and there is no sign of the six screws close to the spokes that you refer to.
If you would take a look at these links, maybe you or others may have other ideas:
Wire sideP1110444 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Non-wire side:P1110446 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
ControllerP1110447 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

By the way, how did you insert such good pictures in your reply? I've tried attachments but that seems to be limited to about 20kb.

Thanks and best wishes, Bill.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Very interesting. I've not seen that one before. It's definitely not a Q128. You'll have to let us know how it performs, and please show us photos when it's installed.

In case you don't know this, I'll explain about installation:
The anti- rotation washers supplied are pretty useless. If you can, bend the tab at a right angle in a strong vice. If you have alloy (not steel) forks then you have to be very careful to make sure that the first washer sits in the dimple without touching the sides, which means using a narrow washer, an eccentric washer or you have to deepen the drop-outs to re-centralise the axle. You may have to do the last one anyway. Ideally you need some sort of torque arm. I can't see one with the kit, so you can get one from Cyclezee.com for £10. If you can weld, you can flatten the anti-rotation washers and weld an arm onto the tab.

 

[flash]

My father had that kit, he bought off ebay, about 4 years ago. It was exactly the same kit. He used it for about a year, but he replaced the lead acid batteries with a 15ah lifpo. We were never convinced it was a 500 watt motor, but never tested it with a meter. The original controller packed up on it and we replaced it, this did not improve the performance. He eventually bought another ebike which was 250 watts and climbed just as well. The kit performed well, but the bike he built it on had a cross bar and he was struggling to get on and off it, which is why he replaced it. We sold it on ebay and has far as I am aware the chap that bought it was happy with it. I still have the lead acids in my garage

 

[bill_s]

Hello again, and thank you D8veh & flash for the advice last October!

I've done about 400 miles with the bike now and find that it performs a little better than my old 250-W 8fun. On the level it can manage about 17 MPH, so my guess is that I'm getting about 300W on a good day (as opposed to the 500W stamped on the casing).
Judging by the performance when I set off on a chiily morning this week (max 14 MPH after a long charge), I think it's time to replace the 3 x 12-V SLAs with Lithium.

Can anyone recommend a battery and supplier? I would like the type that comes with a rear carrier into which the metal-enclosed battery pack slips. I would probably replace with a 36-V lithium pack, but could be tempted to try a 48-V one with new controller if the consensus is that the motor could take it.

Thanks in advance, Bill.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The motor will be able to take 48v, but I don't know about the controller. You need to open it up to check the capacitors to be sure. You'll get 30% more speed and more torque at 48v. BMSBattery have a wide choice of batteries. This type are quite good. They have a plate that attaches to your rack, and the battery slides on and locks in place. You have to make it not quite straight so that it doesn't rattle.
48V 10Ah Li-Ion Alloy 05-Case EBike Battery Pack - BMSBATTERY
To post photos see post #3:
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/announcements-feedback-support/15268-does-forum-picture-upload-work.html
The battery installed; however, you want to get it as close to the seatpost as possible for best handling, which is not possible with the Cyclamatic battery in place too, like in the photo:

 

[peerjay56]

They have a plate that attaches to your rack, and the battery slides on and locks in place. You have to make it not quite straight so that it doesn't rattle.

D8veh,
What has to be 'not quite straight' on the plate to prevent rattles? The plate itself (ie deform it slightly) or the way it mounts onto the rack? The only issue I have with my cyclotricity rack battery is a persistent rattle, which no amount of foam packing or extra strapping seems to cure

 

[Deleted member 4366]

This one has a plate with lips that skide in slots in the battery. The idea is to induce a very slight bow in it so that the batty is tight enough to stay still, but loose enough to slide on.The racks are rarely flat, so it's easy to achieve.

If you've got one of those racks where the battery slots in under the rack, they rattle a lot, but I guess the same principal would appy. Maybe hit it with a mallet to close down the gap in the middle. People have wedged them with various things, but that makes it more difficult to get the battery out. If you don't need to get it out, you can wedge it with anything.

 

[ghouluk]

Maybe hit it with a mallet to close down the gap in the middle.

finally Dave, technical advice in one of your posts that is within the limits of my engineering abilities

 

[bill_s]

finally Dave, technical advice in one of your posts that is within the limits of my engineering abilities

Thank you all (especially D8veh) for the excellent info. I have ordered the BMS battery pack suggested by D8veh and intend to try it with the controller I have.
D8veh....If I get around to opening up the controller (really busy just now with work), what should I look for on the capacitors? Voltage rating >48V??
If I need a new controller any suggestions?

Thanks again, Bill

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The big capacitors have the voltage written on them. a 48v battery is 54.6v fully charged, so 63v caps are OK, but I bet they're 53v.

 

[john h]

iv have one of these kits ,same motor wsydg 73626 ikoo93 the motor is a tongsheng; mine was realy good on hills , my conttroler stopped working,as i left it on all night forgot to disconect batterys, trIed KU 123 ,BUT NO GO.taken me this long to track down where it was made.

 

[john h]

ment to say those are not screws on front of motor BUT HOLES TO TAKE A PEG SPANNER.

 

[john h]

having got my hands on controller,

 

[bill_s]

Hello john h and d8veh,
Thanks for the extra info and sorry about the late reply.
John, is that the controller that came with your tongsheng motor or is it the KU123? I see that at least one of your capacitors is 63-V.
Do you think that a KU93 would be compatible with tongsheng motor and 48-V BMS?
With the present controller, the no-load max speed (wheel off the ground) is ~21 MPH. Is this controlled by the motor or the controller?
Incidentally, my 48-V BMS Battery has only just arrived...nearly a month while BMS tried to sort out new restrictions on shipping batteries. They say that only TNT will ship them now and I had to pay an additional $50 to get it released from Hong Kong..

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The KU 93 is compatible with both 48v and 36v. It sounds like you speed is limited by the motor, but no way of telling until you try a different controller or battery.

 

[john h]

Bill s / yes that was the controler that came with the motor / i just been so bissy that have not got round to repairing it,if i remeber it did 23 no load speed ;

 

[john h]

the 5 small black ones are 50v 47uf the large black one is 63v 1000uf the small blue is 63v47uf the small green is25v 47uf The controler says VOLTS 36 EMBEDED VOLTS 31.5 MODEL BZ01B 1:1
POWER500W DATE 2008_11
ANGLE120 BRAKE LOW

 

[mountainsport]

That looks like the Ananda motor sold as the Q128 by BMSBattery. It's difficult to see the photo, but you can confirm if it has 3 screws on non-wire side near to the axle and on the same side 6 screws holding the side-plate on near the spokes.

If that's what you've got, it might have 500w written on it but the power is about the same as a 250w Bafang, and it doesn't give much more power if you increase the current and volts. 20 amps is about the sweet spot. Also, it's not a good climber, but on the plus side, it's very smooth and quiet.

I disassembled one today, so here's the photo of what's inside:

Hi d8veh,

Are these geared motors easy to dismantle and then reassemble? If so, how often should this be carried out for cleaning and reapplying special motor grease?

MS.