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Help, please with my Oxygen...

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My Oxygen S-Cross MTB motor cuts out at 20mph, I've read on this Forum that after the 'Secret code' has been entered they top out at about 26mph. Mine has the Code entered. Clare :confused:

Hi Clare,

 

26mph may be a bit optimistic.

 

Lift the rear wheel and spin the cranks by hand.

What speed do you see?

That is the noload speed of your bike.

Unless you are a very strong pedaller, you won't achieve as much as that on the road.

26 mph is achievable, but you need to pedal a bit too. After you put in the code, you select your own speed limit. What did you set it to? Bear in mind that you set the speed limit separately for the throttle and pedal sensor, so you need to enter two speed limits for both to work without restriction.

 

You need to set the wheel diamater correctly. I suspect that you've set it smaller, in which case the speed is faster than what shoes on the display.

26 mph is achievable,

I do realize that the user input tops up the motor power but even my fastest ever bike, the Krieger with 20A controller, could not hold on to 26mph for long when derestricted. The battery consumption rockets upward as soon as you go over 20mph.

My Rio MTB, with 17A controller, can only hold on to about 22mph for an average rider.

You need to try an Oxygen. They're fast!

I did, when you brought one to Redbridge, remember?

I was most impressed by the flexible controller.

  • Author
26 mph is achievable, but you need to pedal a bit too. After you put in the code, you select your own speed limit. What did you set it to? Bear in mind that you set the speed limit separately for the throttle and pedal sensor, so you need to enter two speed limits for both to work without restriction.

 

You need to set the wheel diamater correctly. I suspect that you've set it smaller, in which case the speed is faster than what shoes on the display.

Hi d8veh, After the code was entered it came up with 68mph! on both so that chosen. The wheel size is set on 28" but i can only get about 20mph & that's pedelling hard. Clare :)

Hi Clare,

 

there is no more you can do.

The speed limiter cuts the power to the motor to stay legal but it does not reduce the motor's power.

My Oxygen S-Cross MTB motor cuts out at 20mph, I've read on this Forum that after the 'Secret code' has been entered they top out at about 26mph. Mine has the Code entered. Clare :confused:

 

That (32 km/h) was about the top speed of my hub motor bike no matter what I set the speed limit to. That same motor exists in a 42 km/h version with a 17 Amp controller.

 

Maybe this is the issue you are seeing? You may be at the top speed for the motor mounted on your bike?

Hi d8veh, After the code was entered it came up with 68mph! on both so that chosen. The wheel size is set on 28" but i can only get about 20mph & that's pedelling hard. Clare :)

Hmmmm! That's weird. I've derestricted a few, and anybody could do 24 mph without much effort. Let's take a couple of steps back. Firstly, don't confuse things by adjusting the wheel size. It should work on 700c/28". Did you definitely save the setting? It should show 68 mph now as soon as you give the code if you saved it properly. Lift the bike up and spin the wheels to see that they spin freely.

 

I think I know the answer. It's just come to me. The PAS levels on the LCD are speed controls. You have to be on level 6 to get maximum speed, and you need to be in sport mode to get maximum power. 20 mph is the speed limit for level 5, and you wouldn't have enough power to get past 20 mph if you were on eco or the middle power mode.

 

Please let us know when you can get 28 mph to put the naysayers to bed.

Please let us know when you can get 28 mph to put the naysayers to bed.

 

we'll see.

Hi d8veh, After the code was entered it came up with 68mph! on both so that chosen. The wheel size is set on 28" but i can only get about 20mph & that's pedelling hard. Clare :)

 

I have an Oxygen E-Mate CB. It's the 2015 model that was replaced in early 2016.

 

The LCD has 5 speed/power modes, plus zero.

 

On the throttle it will do about 19mph.

On pedal assist no more than 15mph.

 

Can anyone advise me with this "code", please?

You don't need a code for that one. Please say what the no-load speed is from the throttle and the PAS. Use bottom gear for the PAS.
Please say what the no-load speed is from the throttle and the PAS. Use bottom gear for the PAS.

what is the point of measuring the noload speed on PAS? The result would vary with how fast you rotate the cranks by hands.

what is the point of measuring the noload speed on PAS? The result would vary with how fast you rotate the cranks by hands.

I hope your Wooshbikes aren't like that. It would be diabolical!. Every time you changed up a gear to go faster, you'd lose assistance and slow back down again.

I hope your Wooshbikes aren't like that. It would be diabolical!. Every time you changed up a gear to go faster, you'd lose assistance and slow back down again.

I don't get you.

I can see the point of measuring the noload speed using the throttle, it will return the noload speed of the motor, independent of the tester.

If you ride the bike or spin the cranks by hand, the result is no longer independent of the tester.

The reason Clare could not get to your speed is because your legs are stronger than hers.

We don't know why Clare can't go any faster because she hasn't given us the no-load speeds yet.

 

Turning the pedals in first gear with the wheel off the ground and level 6 selected will give the motors maximum speed with the PAS, which is controlled independently of the throttles max speed.

she did so in this recent post:

I've put the bike on a stand & spun the pedals, but the motor still seems to stop at about 23/24 mph. The speedo keeps going past 30 if i keep spinning but with no motor assistance?!

 

For those who are not familiar with noload speed test, the test is important for designers to work out where the sweet zone is for that motor.

It is at 70%-75% of the noload speed test.

For a hub motored commuter bike, the target speed is 15.5mph, where you want the motor to be most efficient and deliver most torque. The ideal noload speed is thus 21 mph. Crank drive motors are more flexible.

For those who are not familiar with noload speed test, the test is important for designers to work out where the sweet zone is for that motor.

It is at 70%-75% of the noload speed test.

For a hub motored commuter bike, the target speed is 15.5mph, where you want the motor to be most efficient and deliver most torque. The ideal noload speed is thus 21 mph.

 

As an aside - is there a standard 'sweet zone' for s-pedelecs?

The max speed is then 28mph, however I imagine that might not actually be where you would want the most efficient delivery ?

As an aside - is there a standard 'sweet zone' for s-pedelecs?

The max speed is then 28mph, however I imagine that might not actually be where you would want the most efficient delivery ?

one important design goals is to minimize battery consumption.

you want the motor to be most efficient where you expect your customers to ride most of his/her miles at (speed-wise).

The sweetzone is only important for geared hub bikes because their useful 'bandwidth' is much smaller than that of a crank drive or a direct drive motor so it needs to be well chosen.

If I build an s-pedelec, the sweetzone will be 28mph. If it has to be a geared hub, I would run my Rio 7 MTB at 48V 20A, that will give me 350RPM on 27.5" tyres.

by the way, if you like high noload speed, all CD bikes will go off scale, more than 28mph if you derestrict them, including my Krieger, Bali and Santana CD.

one important design goals is to minimize battery consumption.

you want the motor to be most efficient where you expect your customers to ride most of his/her miles at (speed-wise).

..

If I build an s-pedelec, the sweetzone will be 28mph.

 

Interesting. One of the reasons I ask the question is to do with battery consumption as I've been wondering whether there is an optimum (albeit compromised) speed for max spedelec range v reasonable time of journey.

My pondering goes something like this: (I'm assuming a direct drive hub)

If you ride slowly, then you're operating the motor inefficiently, as much of the current is wasted as heat in the motor windings.

The no load speed on an spedelec must be by definition be 28mph or more (if you desire assist at this speed), however wind resistance now becomes a major factor in 'wasting' energy.

So too slow is bad, and too fast is bad.

There is probably some compromise speed in the mid range that gives the best range, but I'm not sure what that would be.

 

I'm also intrigued at your comment that you'd choose the sweetzone at 28mph. Not having the irritatingly slow 15mph cutoff is one of the appeals of an spedelec, however I would not have thought that most spedelec users would ride at 28mph most of the time. I'd take a guess (and of course this is a guess and it will be different for different people and different bikes), but around 23mph is probably a more comfortable speed to ride most of the time ??

but around 23mph is probably a more comfortable speed to ride most of the time ??

quite possibly for the majority of commuters but the law is the law.

Bikes like the Oxygen and the Woosh Rio can do this quite efficiently if the law allows them.

quite possibly for the majority of commuters but the law is the law.

Bikes like the Oxygen and the Woosh Rio can do this quite efficiently if the law allows them.

 

Forget the law for a moment, lets pretend we live in another country ...

You said you'd would choose to design an s-pedelecs sweet spot at 28mph. I'm asking, why would you do that, when that might not be the speed that the majority of cyclist would travel at, the majority of the time ?

Why wouldn't you design for say 23mph?

Wouldn't designing for 28mph mean that if you were travelling slower (at sat 23mph), you'd be wasting more battery power through heat ?

Forget the law for a moment,

 

Bikes like the Oxygen and the Rio like they are at the moment have a noload speed of 24mph, their maximum efficiency is at 19mph, maximum torque at 18mph.

For 23mph, I would rather swap out the rear hub motor for a crank drive motor and keep the rest like it is. The cost is only £50 extra and I can extend the sweetzone from 10mph to 23mph. It's good for up to 28mph and can climb steep hills at lower than 10mph.

Bikes like the Oxygen and the Rio like they are at the moment have a noload speed of 24mph, their maximum efficiency is at 19mph, maximum torque at 18mph.

For 23mph, I would rather swap out the rear hub motor for a crank drive motor and keep the rest like it is. The cost is only £50 extra and I can extend the sweetzone from 10mph to 23mph. It's good for up to 28mph and can climb steep hills at lower than 10mph.

 

Ok, but you haven't answered the question.

Why did you initially say you'd design an s-pedelec with a sweet spot speed of 28mph ?

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