help new kit install nothing on lcd

[codger1]

hi all,
just installed new kit and went to power on, nothing on LCD,i haven't previously charged battery as when pressed button it looked full,so to have a look i plugged battery into charger and was showing red light,i left it and about half hour later turned green,whats happening .... is it charging or charged,when i press button to check battery it first led is red then three greens,sorry if this has been covered but having a crisis

 

[Nealh]

We don't know the battery you have however the charger will indicate red when charging and green once the balance charge has finished, though generally the battery will always have enough voltage to allow the LCD to switch on.
The battery sends power to the controller then power is supply to the LCD, recheck all your wiring connections to the above carefully also check the battery fuse is intact. The fuse can be internal or an external one dependant on the battery.

 

[codger1]

Thanks for reply neath,
when kit came i pressed battery button and it was showing one red led and three green so i presumed battery was full,as i say then plugging battery into charger it was red then turned green after half hour ,its still green on the charger.., that's what i thought should be minimal power for LCD,i have checked connections endlessly ,fuse is in rear battery pack so will have a look,or phone call to seller tomorrow i think

 

[Nealh]

If you have a DVM you can check the fuse is ok with a voltage reading from the battery output terminals.

 

[codger1]

i don't but i know a man who has,will go around there tomorrow

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You can't do anything without a meter. You need to check the voltage on the two wires that connect the battery to the controller. Is your battery switched on?????

 

[codger1]

Happy days,
thanks to all,panic set in(my hard earned...) fuse was blown in battery!! but up and running now,only thing to do is rig little bracket for pas sensor

 

[Nealh]

The fuse can easily blow if the battery is already on when connecting, the main thing is the fuse did its job so protecting the battery from harm. Quite often it's the simple things that usually stare at you in the face, when leccy components don't work you have to stand back and put your logic cap on.
Some people just buy bits and end up sometimes with a complete kit again, there was a guy some months back who had a problem and all but did this. I first saw his post on ES then suggested it a bit better to try here but he wouldn't listen or do as asked by those trying to help him, afaik he disappeared and we heard no more. I think the only part he didn't but was a new battery he got a new controller and hub motor which didn't solve his issue. As d8veh has mentioned you can't do anything without a meter except guess.

 

[codger1]

Looking back that could have been the case with battery,only explanation really might just get me a little DVM, thanks for all help,now i'm mobile again

 

[Nealh]

The cheap ones (£5 or so) on ebay are fine, but make sure you get one with the buzzer for continuity testing. The only issue I have with them is the probes wiring, all the ones I have had the wire solder on the pin eventually breaks due to the free rotation of the wire at the top. Hot glue the top end/wire outlet to prevent rotation and allow some molten glue to squeeze down the end.
If the solder joint does break, some times you can pull the probe/pin out and re-solder though they are in there very tight.
Other wise I cut the probes at the collar push the pin through re-solder and re insert pin, I use hot glue to re-join the two probe parts again not forgetting to hot glue the top end to prevent wire rotation.

 

[codger1]

Thanks for the heads up