Help! Handlebar throttle partial power only

[mikeconnect]

Some of you may remember way back I had a wheel drop out , got your great help to fix the hub circuit board . When motor was fixed the handlebar twist throttle worked but only gave me a start off slow speed whereas before it had full throttle capability. I was told to check sensors inside the throttle . I couldn't get in it . So I just bought identical replacement throttle . It hasn't made any difference . So fault is elsewhere.
My question is ... What else could have caused my throttle to change from full to only part capability . Thanks

 

[Deleted member 33385]

The following is wild and non-ebike-expert speculation: Could you throttle slow start, be remedied by the arrival and installation of your new aorta battery, which you've ordered?

 

[mikeconnect]

The following is wild and non-ebike-expert speculation: Could you throttle slow start, be remedied by the arrival and installation of your new aorta battery, which you've ordered?

Was thinking about that because I read on here somewhere throttle problem when unable to draw sufficient power from battery . Only thing is it worked fine before the wheel drop out and the motor blew. I'll wait for battery first and take it from there

 

[vfr400]

You need to be more specific about what low speed means.

 

[mikeconnect]

You need to be more specific about what low speed means.

You can turn the throttle slightly and the best it will do is just help you off from a standing start . I dont know what speed but let's day 5 mph . If you increase throttle it doesn't increase speed

 

[vfr400]

Are you sure that you haven't set it to 4km/hr?

 

[mikeconnect]

Are you sure that you haven't set it to 4km/hr?

I don't know how to do that . All I know is it ran to full speed before wheel drop out . After I repairs the motor circuit board it ran to this low speed only

 

[mikeconnect]

Are you sure that you haven't set it to 4km/hr?

Doesn't seem to have that capability to set the speed looking at this

Voilamart 36V 250W 26" Front Wheel Electric Bicycle Conversion Kit Speed Hub Motor Cycling - Sports & Outdoor

This Electric Bicycle kit includes everything needed(except battery) to convert your standard bike into a top-of-the-line performance electric bike, which delivers unequaled performance and reliability. You’

www.voilamart.co.uk

 

[mikeconnect]

Any idea where I can get these for 2 pin battery connection . It would help if I knew correct name for them before I search on ebay
Thanks

 

[Nealh]

I don't know how to do that . All I know is it ran to full speed before wheel drop out . After I repairs the motor circuit board it ran to this low speed only

The throttle operation appears to be variable and is set by the controller software programming, most likely the spin out has shorted the controller/throttle circuit and it may be relegated to walk speed mode which is 6km/h - 4mph.

 

[Nealh]

Any idea where I can get these for 2 pin battery connection . It would help if I knew correct name for them before I search on ebay
Thanks

Chop them off, solder battery direct or use different common matching connectors.
If the battery sits on a rail ,solder the rail direct to the controller.

 

[mikeconnect]

The throttle operation appears to be variable and is set by the controller software programming, most likely the spin out has shorted the controller/throttle circuit and it may be relegated to walk speed mode which is 6km/h - 4mph.

Sounds about right .im usually happy with just pedal assisted. and throttle just helping me to start off or to slowly manoeuvre isn't big prob. I suppose I'm trying to fix it because that's how it was before. Unless you correct me I would assume that means a New controller , removing all the assembly disconnecting reconnecting all the wires etc etc. Maybe a winter job when I'm not using the bike unless you tell me an easier solution thanks

 

[Nealh]

Yes a new controller. There is nothing in a throttle except 3 wires connected and a hall sensor and as with all peripherals signals by way of voltage are sent to and from the controller.

 

[mikeconnect]

Chop them off, solder battery direct or use different common matching connectors.
If the battery sits on a rail ,solder the rail direct to the controller.

I've bought new battery to fit into original case which in turn slots into dedicated holder behind seat post with 2 pin connector so I'll be using same kind of connectors . These shown are ok really but one has a slight burn mark . Prob won't make any difference. Just would have changed it if easy to get

 

[mikeconnect]

The throttle operation appears to be variable and is set by the controller software programming, most likely the spin out has shorted the controller/throttle circuit and it may be relegated to walk speed mode which is 6km/h - 4mph.

Nealh ref your adjustable pedal assist is it operated by reduction in voltage? If so is this all done through the control box or is it some kind of adjustment on the pedal sensor. Just curious how it works

 

[Nealh]

The PAS assist on my KT controller bikes are set in the programming, I am unable to change the %'s at all in any level. Nothing is adjustable except the current. PAS voltage is static c.5v on /off/on/off etc as each magnet passes.

 

[mikeconnect]

The PAS assist on my KT controller bikes are set in the programming, I am unable to change the %'s at all in any level. Nothing is adjustable except the current. PAS voltage is static c.5v on /off/on/off etc as each magnet passes.

So you've got preset levels. But what changes at each level the speed at which you pedal to engage the motor or amount of power going to the motor

 

[Nealh]

KT's are current control so each level has a max set current speed is max in all assist
With my 20a controllers I only get 100% if I use throttle or PAS 5.
Mostly I only use PAS 1 which gives me 13% power of 20a, so 2.6a or about 110w with my 44v battery. On my flat terrain it is all the power I need locally, the only time I use higher PAS is on my touring bike when I go for 90 - 160 km rides over varying terrain.

My Swizzbee (signature pic) has only one PAS assist which varies the power according to gear ratio used, using old brushed mid motor it gives normally about 8-12 amps constant but now and then on the watt meter I see 30 odd amps. It is a hungry beast and uses parallel batteries that easily can give up 80a, range is only about 60 odd miles enough for straight run to the seaside and back on a nice day.

 

[mikeconnect]

KT's are current control so each level has a max set current speed is max in all assist
With my 20a controllers I only get 100% if I use throttle or PAS 5.
Mostly I only use PAS 1 which gives me 13% power of 20a, so 2.6a or about 110w with my 44v battery. On my flat terrain it is all the power I need locally, the only time I use higher PAS is on my touring bike when I go for 90 - 160 km rides over varying terrain.

My Swizzbee (signature pic) has only one PAS assist which varies the power according to gear ratio used, using old brushed mid motor it gives normally about 8-12 amps constant but now and then on the watt meter I see 30 odd amps. It is a hungry beast and uses parallel batteries that easily can give up 80a, range is only about 60 odd miles enough for straight run to the seaside and back on a nice day.

Looks like you ve got all the options anyone could need . Well I'm stuck with a voilamart 36v 250w motor with a controller which basically leaves me free wheeling a lot. after kicking in it goes shooting off at full pelt. Think that's why I'm not getting the range. I've only just got this 36v 10ah battery and I know it might not be the best , I took a chance on it cos of my low mileage ... And budget . Not 100% sure yet but so far I've done 16 km and traffic light led it's down to red led on drive , and amber on freewheel maybe Another 4 km in it . Prob combination of power guzzler and crap battery. Luckily 20km will suit my habits . I'm assuming that any silly improvising ideas in my head wont work. Like putting a potentiometer between the controller and the motor.

 

[Nealh]

Those voilamart controllers are pretty much rubbish hence the cheapness of the kits, it is why so many buy them who aren't knowledgeable about the control systems.
The controllers are speed control so you get max current at low speed all the time and then it only decreases as you near the cut out speed. You can't gently waft along as the hard shove in the back is always there, whereas the KT is the opposite in PAS 1 & 2 you get a gentle push along and if you want the extra oomph one simply uses the thumb throttle or selects a higher PAS.