Handlebar display/controller unit

[brandnewcombineharvester]

Hi all.

I'm sure this thread may have been flogged to death but I truly can't find any info.

I'm at my wits end here....

Here's the issue.......

The bike , "e swift" 36v, has been utterly faultless for years.
But now it's got a bit of water ingress in the display unit.
Which is causing it to play up somewhat, but upon removal of the unit, cleaning and drying out, it's fine.
I have been led to believe that just because a 'similar' replacement unit has the same 5 pin connector it will more than likely be configured differently.
I'm basically having a real nightmare trying to get one that will work.
I intend to get a couple of new ones and "pot" them with resin .(avoiding the buttons obviously). Which will hermetically seal them.
I've found one nearly the same but it has a headlight button on it which mine doesn't. So still not quite right, and didn't work.
The only one that works is the original when it's dried out you see.

I hope one of you learned friends can point me in the right direction.

I have attached 2 pics that will help.


Thanks in advance all.

 

[matthewslack]

Display, which on many bikes gets called the LCD or LED, is very often paired with the motor controller by the bike manufacturer. Outwardly identical units may have different software, bespoke to the application, and so replacement of display alone is often not possible.

For a simple hub motor bike there is always a solution by replacing controller and display, but more work involved. Effectively you end up doing a conversion, except that the motor and battery are already in place!

Probably best to struggle on until you've had enough and then buy and fit new controller and display.

 

[saneagle]

Hi all.

I'm sure this thread may have been flogged to death but I truly can't find any info.

I'm at my wits end here....

Here's the issue.......

The bike , "e swift" 36v, has been utterly faultless for years.
But now it's got a bit of water ingress in the display unit.
Which is causing it to play up somewhat, but upon removal of the unit, cleaning and drying out, it's fine.
I have been led to believe that just because a 'similar' replacement unit has the same 5 pin connector it will more than likely be configured differently.
I'm basically having a real nightmare trying to get one that will work.
I intend to get a couple of new ones and "pot" them with resin .(avoiding the buttons obviously). Which will hermetically seal them.
I've found one nearly the same but it has a headlight button on it which mine doesn't. So still not quite right, and didn't work.
The only one that works is the original when it's dried out you see.

I hope one of you learned friends can point me in the right direction.

I have attached 2 pics that will help.


Thanks in advance all.

These things look the same because they use the same case, but what's inside is different. The first thing to establish is whether your battery uses comms by counting the wires connecting it to the controller - any more than two indicates that you're stuck with an OEM replacement for the control panel. If it's two wires, you can chuck the whole crappy control system you have and get a better one for less than the price of just the OEM control panel.

 

[brandnewcombineharvester]

I see!

Hey thanks man.

Any tips or Don t do's?
As I'll have a look in abit as ive a few days off.

 

[matthewslack]

I see!

Hey thanks man.

Any tips or Don t do's?
As I'll have a look in abit as ive a few days off.

Read a load of conversion threads. All you need to know has been seen many times before. Then come back for specifics if needed.

Pictures always help a description.

 

[thelarkbox]

a KT 15a sine wave controller and compatible lcd display (there is a range to select from ktlcd1.., ktlcd3 is popular/common), is a top shelf replacement option, partly due to the range of compatible displays and also because its fairly configurable with a detailed chenglish manual. (manuals are display focused as that is the i/o device used).

match the connection type used with your bike if possible Julet/waterproof plugs, or automotive jst, if not compatible select the jst option for ease..

replacement brake/cadence sensors are cheap via china so perhaps consider dropping £10 or so to save cable hacking if at all adverse.

post links to prospective purchases if unsure..

 

[saneagle]

I see!

Hey thanks man.

Any tips or Don t do's?
As I'll have a look in abit as ive a few days off.

You have to check the battery wires first!

 

[Bikes4two]

The only one that works is the original when it's dried out you see.

Why not just seal the original after you've next dried it out?

It's possible of course that your display has a leak other than through the case opening so seal this off with tape first to see if it stays dry and if it does, permanently seal it (or use hot glue which can be released if needed).