Greenedge cs2 battery cut out

Sinjin Smythe

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 15, 2017
24
31
Northern Ireland
Hi guys

I've had a greenedge cs2 bike for several years I picked up used and has served me well. Last year I had the issue with the battery arcing whilst cycling and the E error on the LCD display. I resolved that by replacing the battery holder and the bike has been going fine up until a few days ago.

I was commuting to work and the battery completely shut off without warning, I was able to turn it off and on at the power switch and got a little further before the same thing happened.

I have the battery held in place by a large jubilee clip to stop it from moving when going over bumps etc and a rain cover over the battery to stop corrosion to the contacts. I checked the two pins on the connectors and they aren't corroded and move freely when pushed down. The battery does have a full charge but really I only get about 9 or 10 miles on a full charge which was enough for a return commute.

Price on a new battery is £299 , just wanted to see if anyone has had a similar issue and it's definitely the battery before I splash out on a new one. If I get another few years out of it with a new battery that would be great

Weighing up my options of changing my bike to a new one through cycle to work scheme or upgrading my spare 29er with a a motor kit from china.

Does the battery just shutting off when applying power sound like the battery is end of life?
 

matthewslack

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 26, 2021
2,387
1,601
What is the capacity of the battery? How hilly is the ride? What range did you manage when the bike was new? How many miles total has the bike done?

Turning off is what happens either because connection is interrupted, or because low voltage cutoff had been triggered by low state of charge meeting high power demand.
 

Sinjin Smythe

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 15, 2017
24
31
Northern Ireland
I was testing it when I got home yesterday and even when sitting stationary the battery would just switch off after about 30 seconds. I got no error on the display which I used to get when the bike was arcing and power cutting out. It was showing 5 bars on the LCD. I did let it run down lower than usual a few days ago as I forgot to charge it and only got a half charge into it before leaving for work. I have given it a full charge since but issue is still there.

When I got the bike about 7 or 8 years ago I could easily do 2 return commutes before I noticed the battery bars dropping off, now I noticed I dropping off after starting midway through my second commute trip.

I think it's a 9mah battery, the one that came with the bike from the factory. Not sure how many miles the bike had done or how old it was when I bought it on gumtree but I've put about another 800 miles on it I would guess. Battery is probably 10 or more years old at this point I'd guess.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
21,323
8,722
61
West Sx RH
Battery is knackered or badly out balance if only getting 10 miles out of it.
10 years old it is time to recycle it and buy another.
 
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saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
8,109
3,706
Telford
You can make an opportunity out of a crisis. I'd be looking at replacing the battery with a Hailong type. For £299 you can get one plus a new controller and LCD, which could give you more range, more speed, more power or whatever you want

Another possibility is that you can get those batteries with a different base for about £150. If you know how to solder, you can swap the bottoms over or take the complete cell-pack out and swap it over. There are three types of those bottle batteries: Multipin base, top slides off to the side; two pin base, top tilts upwards to remove; 4-pin cable connector base with hollow bottom on the holder for the cable to come through. I only see the last one available these days.
 
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Sinjin Smythe

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 15, 2017
24
31
Northern Ireland
You can make an opportunity out of a crisis. I'd be looking at replacing the battery with a Hailong type. For £299 you can get one plus a new controller and LCD, which could give you more range, more speed, more power or whatever you want

Another possibility is that you can get those batteries with a different base for about £150. If you know how to solder, you can swap the bottoms over or take the complete cell-pack out and swap it over. There are three types of those bottle batteries: Multipin base, top slides off to the side; two pin base, top tilts upwards to remove; 4-pin cable connector base with hollow bottom on the holder for the cable to come through. I only see the last one available these days.
Thank you so much for the info, I like the sound of the upgrade and sounds like a better option than going back to what I had. I'll look in that
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
8,109
3,706
Telford
Thank you so much for the info, I like the sound of the upgrade and sounds like a better option than going back to what I had. I'll look in that
Greenlance and Yose both are good suppliers of batteries at good prices:

You can get controllers that fit in the battery from Topbikekit, though, personally, I prefer the aluminium box type controllers with block connectors because they're easier to test if you ever get a fault. I fit them in a bag:

Get the whole set of stuff, including LCD with those controllers so that all the connectors fit nicely and everything will work. You can get a throttle that works legally as a power boost control to override the pedal assist setting too. Get the 36v/48v version to give a better choice of batteries.

Finally, If you want more torque for hill-climbing, you can get a 48v battery. Your motor doesn't care about the voltage. It'll just give more torque. These controllers give the oppotunity to turn the power down if you don't want so much. At least it's there to use if you want it.
 

Sinjin Smythe

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 15, 2017
24
31
Northern Ireland
Greenlance and Yose both are good suppliers of batteries at good prices:

You can get controllers that fit in the battery from Topbikekit, though, personally, I prefer the aluminium box type controllers with block connectors because they're easier to test if you ever get a fault. I fit them in a bag:

Get the whole set of stuff, including LCD with those controllers so that all the connectors fit nicely and everything will work. You can get a throttle that works legally as a power boost control to override the pedal assist setting too. Get the 36v/48v version to give a better choice of batteries.

Finally, If you want more torque for hill-climbing, you can get a 48v battery. Your motor doesn't care about the voltage. It'll just give more torque. These controllers give the oppotunity to turn the power down if you don't want so much. At least it's there to use if you want it.
Thanks this is great info I really appreciate the reply and reliable sources for buying as I wouldn't know where to start. I'd love to develop some skills to do an upgrade like this so I'll get reading up.
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
8,109
3,706
Telford
Thanks this is great info I really appreciate the reply and reliable sources for buying as I wouldn't know where to start. I'd love to develop some skills to do an upgrade like this so I'll get reading up.
The change over is pretty straight forward. The only real problem you get is that the screw holes on the Hailong type cases are often at the top end, so don't line up with the bottle fixings. Plus, it's better to use three screws anyway because of the weight. The best way to deal with that is to insert extra riv-nuts into the frame, which isn't too difficult, or you can get an adapter plate.

As I said, if you get the whole controller kit with throttle, PAS and LCD, everything is plug and play, though you need a BB removal tool and crank puller to swap the PAS over. Yours will work, but often the wires are in a different sequence on the connector, so they have to be swapped around to match the controller.

You will have to solder the two battery wires if you get the integrated controller. They might fit directly if you use the box, type, though you'll probably need to extend them to wherever you locate the controller.
 
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